My Pink Diamonds

The cut of a diamond is the physical measurement and relative proportion of a polished diamond and is the most important characteristic in producing a diamond’s beauty. A single number does not define cut. Instead, it is a myriad of measurements, relative percentages, angles, finish, and performance of light within the diamond.

The brilliance and sparkle of a diamond is the result of the reflection and refraction of light within a diamond and is the cumulative effect of the many facets on the surface of the three-dimensional diamond shape. What makes judging cut difficult is that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Different people perceive the beauty of a diamond differently in terms of what they perceive as beautiful.

In recent years, major diamond grading laboratories like the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the American Gem Society (AGS) have established cut grades to help the consumer make better decisions for purchasing diamonds based on cut characteristics. However, the cut grading systems are different from each other and constantly changing. As a result, there is no single official cut grade but the current systems are a giant leap ahead of the past with no cut grades.

The quality of the cut is most visible in terms of how light performs in a diamond to produce Brightness, Fire, and Scintillation.

Brightness is the visual effect of all the internal and external reflections of white light. This brightness (also known as brilliance) results primarily from the angles of the facets and the relative size of the top facet called the table.

Fire is the visual effect of rainbow colored flashes of light caused by the separation of white light into various colors when the diamond acts as a prism.

Scintillation is the visual effect of sparkle and patterns of light and darkness. Sparkle is the points of light that flash as the diamond, the light source or the observer moves. The arrangement and contrast between the bright and dark areas is important to what the eye perceives as beautiful. An all-bright diamond or an all-dark diamond is less attractive than a diamond with a balanced, symmetrical and contrasting pattern of reflection.

Some of the more important diamond measurements influencing the cut grade are depth percentage, table percentage, crown angle, and pavilion angle. The initial cut grade research focused on round brilliant diamond shapes but the grading laboratories are slowly introducing cut grades for the fancy shapes like the princess, emerald, oval, radiant, cushion and others. Each diamond shape has its own set of cut parameters that produce the optimal light performance and beauty for that particular diamond shape.

If the cut of the diamond is the key to its beauty, why would anyone purchase a diamond without great cut? Probably the main reason is lack of knowledge by the consumer. Until recent years, it has been difficult for the consumer to assess the cut of the diamond because jewelers focused on color, clarity and carat weight. The jeweler used the bright lights in the showroom to mask the light performance of the diamond. As the diamond shopper becomes more aware of what constitutes cut and has access to the GIA or AGS cut grades on the diamond grading reports, they will be able to filter out the average and poor cut diamonds in their purchase decisions.

Sometimes budget is a factor in purchasing something less than the best cut. However, cut is typically a real bargain since there is little visual difference between the top echelons of diamond cut and the price difference between average and exceptional cut is often minimal. Perhaps the real cost of getting better cut in a diamond, is the time and effort to learn about cut and to find a retailer who can provide diamonds with exceptional cut at reasonable prices.

Once a diamond shopper has determined what shape of diamond they want to purchase, they need to research what cut parameters contribute to desirable appearance. Some diamond shoppers fall into a trap of narrowly defining their acceptable range for every diamond measurement, not realizing that the beauty of the diamond results from the interrelationships of all the facets. Simply picking the middle of the range for each parameter can lead to a mediocre result. The cut grades are an attempt to rate how a combination of factors work together in the diamond.

Regardless of the cut grade systems today or in the future, only the diamond shopper can determine what is most appealing to their eye. Cut is critical to the beauty of the diamond so making the best diamond purchase decision means understanding the importance of cut and finding that special diamond that is beautiful to behold.

Click the Certificate link below to learn all about A.G.S – American Gem Society or the G.I.A – Gemological Institute America.

CUT…A diamond’s cut is not only about its shape, but how effectively the stone can return light back to the viewer’s eye. A well-cut diamond will appear very brilliant and fiery; while more poorly cut stones can appear dark and lifeless, regardless of color or clarity.

Color…When shopping for a diamond, it is generally preferred to have the least amount of color possible. Diamond color is divided into five broad categories:

Colorless: Diamonds within the colorless range are the most rare and valuable of all the colors. color stones display virtually no color, whereas colored diamonds will display a nearly undetected amount of color when viewed face down by a gemologist.

Near Colorless: Diamonds within the near colorless range appear colorless in the face up position, but do display a slight amount of color when viewed face down against a perfectly white background. This trace amount of color will be undetectable to an untrained eye once the diamond has been mounted. Near colorless diamonds offer a tremendous value for the money.

Understanding Fluorescence – How does it effect a diamond?

Some diamonds can display a visible light called fluorescence when exposed to an ultraviolet light source. This fluorescence will be measured as inert, faint, medium or strong. Blue fluorescence is most common, however diamonds can also fluoresce white, yellow, and orange (among other colors). Fluorescence usually has no effect on a diamonds appearance in regular light conditions. Strong blue fluorescence can make a yellow colored diamond appear more white, but in rare cases can cause a stone to appear milky or oily. This milky or oily effect is called an “over blue” and only applies to a small number of “strong” and “very strong” fluorescent stones.

Which Color should you Choose?

Most people find it very difficult (if not impossible) to tell the difference from one color grade to another. The difference in price, however, can be significant.However, you can find a tremendous value while still achieving a “colorless” look. Shopping on a budget or trying to maximize the size of your stone? If so then “J” diamonds are most affordable and still near colorless. You may also want to consider choosing a diamond with medium or strong fluorescence. Since these diamonds are discounted slightly in price you can often afford a higher color stone without paying the premium.

Angola

In 1998, the United Nations (UN) placed Angola under sanctions forbidding countries from buying diamonds from them. This was the first resolution of the UN which specifically mentioned diamonds in the context of funding war. Reports estimated that as much as 20% of total production in the 1990s were being sold for illicit purposes, and 15% were specifically conflict in nature.By 1999, the illicit diamond trade was estimated by the World Diamond Council to have been reduced to 3.06% of the world’s diamond production.The World Diamond Council reported that by 2004 this percentage had fallen to approximately 1%.

Angola is a former colony of Portugal and gained independence in 1975. Although independent, the country saw civil war between the Popular Movement for the Liberation of Angola (PMLA) faction, and the National Union for the Total Independence of Angola (UNITA) faction. During this war, diamonds were traded by rebel groups to fund their war. The UN recognized the role that diamonds played in funding the UNITA rebels, and in 1998 banned countries from buying diamonds from Angola. Today Angola’s civil war has ended and the country is now a legitimate part of the diamond trade.

Sierra Leone

In July 1999, following over eight years of civil conflict, negotiations between the Government of Sierra Leone and the Revolutionary United Front led to the signing of the Lome Peace Agreement under which the parties agreed to the cessation of hostilities, disarmament of all combatants and the formation of a government of national unity. The United Nations and the Economic Community of West African States (ECOWAS) helped facilitate the negotiations. In resolution 1270 of October 22, 1999, the Security Council established the United Nations Mission in Sierra Leone (UNAMSIL) to help create the conditions in which the parties could implement the Agreement. Subsequently, the number of personnel were increased and tasks to be carried out by UNAMSIL adjusted by the Council in resolutions 1289 of February 8, 2000 and 1299 of May 19, 2000, making UNAMSIL the second largest peacekeeping force currently deployed by the United Nations (the largest such contingent is in the Congo.

Following international concern at the role played by the illicit diamond trade in fueling conflict in Sierra Leone, the Security Council adopted resolution 1306 on July 5, 2000 imposing a ban on the direct or indirect import of rough diamonds from Sierra Leone not controlled by the Government of Sierra Leone through a Certificate of Origin regime. An arms embargo and selective travel ban on non-governmental forces were already in effect under resolution 1171 of June 5, 1998.

On July 31, 2000 and August 1, 2000, Ambassador Anwarul Karim Chowdhury, Chairman of the Security Council Committee established pursuant to resolution 1132 (1997) concerning Sierra Leone, presided over the first ever exploratory public hearing by the Security Council in New York. The hearing was attended by representatives of interested Member States, regional organizations, non-governmental organizations, the diamond industry and other relevant experts. The hearing exposed the link between the trade in illicit Sierra Leone diamonds and trade in arms and related material. The ways and means for developing a sustainable and well-regulated diamond industry in Sierra Leone were also discussed.

As called for by resolution 1306 of July 5, 2000, the Secretary-General, on August 2, 2000, established a Panel of Experts, to collect information on possible violations of the arms embargo and the link between trade in diamonds and trade in arms and related material, consider the adequacy of air traffic control systems in the West African region for the purpose of detecting flights suspected of contravening the arms embargo, and report to the Council with observations and recommendations on ways of strengthening the arms and diamonds embargoes no later than October 3, 2000. The Chairman of the Panel was Martin Chungong Ayafor (Cameroon). The other members were Atabou Bodian (Senegal), Johan Peleman (Belgium), Harjit Singh Sandhu (India) and Ian Smillie (Canada). The Panel submitted its report to the Security Council on December 19, 2000. On January 25, 2001 the Security Council, at its 4264th meeting, considered the report of the panel of experts.

Diamond revenues in Sierra Leone have increased more than tenfold since the end of the conflict, from $10 million in 2000 to about $130 million in 2004,although from 1989 to 2003 Liberia was engaged in a civil war. In 2000, the UN accused Liberian president Charles G. Taylor of supporting the RUF insurgency in Sierra Leone with weapons and training in exchange for diamonds. In 2001 the UN applied sanctions on the Liberian diamond trade. In August 2003 Taylor stepped down as president, and after being exiled to Nigeria, now faces trial in the Hague. On July 21, 2006 he pleaded not guilty of crimes against humanity and war crimes.

Liberia today is at peace and is attempting to construct a legitimate diamond mining industry. The UN has lifted sanctions and Liberia is now a member of the Kimberley process.

A certificate is not the same thing as an appraisal.  A certificate describes the quality of a diamond, but it does not place a monetary value on the gem.  An appraisal places a monetary value on your diamond, but does not certify the quality of the diamond.

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the American Gem Society (AGS), and the International Gemological Institute (IGI) are the three most widely known and respected diamond grading laboratories in the world.  Each of the grading laboratories have developed a very similar nomenclature for identifying the 4 C’s of diamonds.  The 4 C’s stand for Carat, Color, Clarity, and Cut.  We will also discuss the Shape of diamonds in this article.

Carat Grading

The weight or size of a diamond is measured in carats.  A carat is 0.2 grams or 200 milligrams and is always referenced within 2 decimal points.  This is a highly accurate grading scale used to determine the weight or size of a diamond.

Color Grading

 D to Z 

All diamonds are compared against to an internationally accepted set of master stones and ranges from totally colorless (D) to pale yellow or brown color (Z).  Brown diamonds darker than K color are usually described using their letter grade, and a descriptive phrase, for example M Faint Brown.  Diamonds with more depth of color than Z color fall into the fancy color diamond range.

Color grades D through F are naturally the most valuable and expensive because of their rarity.  Color G through I will show virtually no visible color to the untrained eye.  Selecting the right jewelry to mount the diamond in can minimize color grade J through M.

The coloration of diamonds can be caused by several factors.  Impurities trapped in the diamond during its formation, the crystal lattice structure of the diamond, and the exposure to radiation can all lead to the wide verity of colors available in diamonds.

Clarity Grading

Clarity is determined by the number of blemishes on the surfaces of the diamond and the number of inclusions such as air bubbles, cracks, and foreign material inside of the diamond.  When both terms are being referenced the term defects is usually referenced.  Nature rarely produces anything that is with out defects and this hold true for diamonds.  Most diamonds will have some type of defect or flaw.

When grading the Clarity of a diamond it is necessary to observe the number and the nature of any internal defects in the stone.  The size and position of the defects are also taken into account.  A diamond is said to be Internally Flawless (I.F) when it presents no internal defects under 10x magnification by an experienced eye of laboratory gemologists.

A diamond is said to be Very Very Slightly included (V.V.S.1 to V.V.S.2) when it presents defects that are very difficult to locate under 10x magnification. A diamond is said to be Very Slightly Included (V.S.1 to V.S.2) when it presents defects that are difficult to locate under 10x magnification.

A diamond is said to be Slightly Included (S.I.1 to S.I.2) when it presents defects that are easy to locate under 10x magnification.

A diamond is said to be Imperfect (P.1 to I.1) when it presents defects that are hard to locate with the naked eye.

A diamond is said to be Imperfect (P.2 to I.2) when it presents defects that are easy to locate with the naked eye.

A diamond is said to be Imperfect (P.3 to I.3) when it presents defects that are very easy to locate with the naked eye.

Cut Grading

The symmetry and proportions of a diamond cut determine the life, brilliance and light dispersion.  If any of these cutting factors are below standard then the appearance of the diamond will be adversely affected.

The cut of a diamond has nothing to do with the shape of the diamond.  The cut refers to the diamond’s reflective qualities.  A good cut give the diamond it brilliance or the ability to handle light in a pleasing fashion.  The brightness will seem to come from the very heart of a diamond.

When a ray of light touches the surface of a diamond, part of the light is reflected back, this is external reflection.  The rest of the ray penetrates the stone and is then reflected toward the center of the diamond. This is known as refraction.  The ray of light is reflected to the surface, where it is seen as the colors of the spectrum. This is known as dispersion.

If light enters the diamond through to top or table and then leaks out from the sides or bottom instead of reflecting back to the eye, then the diamond will seen to have less brilliance and fire.  A diamonds cut is the most important of the four Cs.  If all of the rest of the grading scale is at the higher end of the spectrum and the cut has been utilized to maximize the size of the diamond then a very poor quality stone rill be the result.  Happily this trend in size instead of quality is no longer prevalent in the diamond market.  Today standard mathematical algorithms are used to determine the best cut for any shape diamond. Shape

The shape of diamond will fall into one of several standard categories but there are many variations on each standard categories.  Basic categories include Round, Emerald, Pear, Heart, Marquise, Oval, and Princess cuts.

 Round 

The standard for the diamond shape and is used in most engagement rings.

 Emerald 

Rectangular or square step cut with diagonally cut corners.  Usually has 2 to 4 rows of parallel facets to the center of the stone.  A very popular style of cut used for Emeralds hence the name.

 Pear 

Pear or teardrop in shape and may or may not have a large flat surface in the center of the stone.  This stone is usually cut to have about 56 to 58 facets.

 Heart 

Heart in shape and if a shield shaped cutlet is present (flat center) then it will usually have 32 crown facets.  If no culet is present then 24 pavilion facets is the norm.

 Marquise 

Oval in shape with curving sides and pointed ends and was developed in France in the mid 1700s.  May have been named after the Marquise de Pompador, who was a mistress of King Louis XV.

 Oval 

Oval in shape and covered with triangular facets.

 Princess 

Very popular square or modified rectangular shape.  There are many variations of crown and pavilion facets cuts on the market.

 Taylor-Burton Diamond 

As a status symbol big diamonds have no equal.  It shows that you have the ability to spend an extravagant amount of money on jewelry.  When not being displayed these beautiful gems are hidden away in secure locations and rarely see the light of day.  When was the last time you have seen the Esther Williams famous Champagne diamond ring or the Taylor Burton pear shaped diamond?

 Esthers Diamond 

Finding a good jeweler is the first step you need to take when purchasing any jewelry item.  It is also necessary to do some research on the grading system of diamonds.  Many good article are available on the internet to assist you in understanding the 4 C’s of diamond grading.  After you have learned the fundamentals your jeweler can clarify your understanding.

The American Gem Society (AGS), the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), and the International Gemological Institute (IGI) are the three most widely known and respected diamond grading laboratories in the world and each of them has developed a very similar nomenclature for identifying the 4 C’s of diamonds.  The 4 C’s stand for Carat, Color, Clarity, Cut and I like to add shape to the 4 C’s list.

The first of the 4 C’s is the Carat.  A carat is 0.2 grams or 200 milligrams and is always referenced within 2 decimal points. For example the the Golden Jubilee is considered the largest faceted diamond in the world and weighs in at 545.67 carts.  The Taylor-Burton diamond is 69.42 carats.  This is a highly accurate grading scale used to determine the weight or size of a diamond but it does not apply a value to the diamond.

Color Grading

 D to Z 

The next thing you need to look at when purchasing a diamond is the color of the diamond.  A white diamond is not white but clear in color.  Different colors in diamonds are produced because of impurities trapped in the diamond during the formation process.  Since nature rarely create anything pure many diamond will have show some color to the naked eye.  Color range from totally colorless (D) to a pale color (Z).  Diamonds of a higher grade than (Z) fall into the fancy color diamond range.  A diamond with a color range greater that (K) usually have a descriptive phrase such as grade (M) Faint Brown.

 White Diamond 

White diamonds are usually more expensive because of their rarity, D through F, but some diamonds in the fancy color range can command a very high per-caret price.  Pink diamonds have sold for up to $1,000,000 a carat.  The largest Fancy Vivid Pink diamond is the The Steinmetz Pink Diamond and is 59.60 carats in weight.

Clarity Grading is the third factor in determining the quality of a diamond.  This grading requires education and years of practice for a gemologists to master.  The number and nature of the defects in a diamond is taken into account when applying the clarity grading code.  Basically the diamond is looked at with the naked eye and under a 10X magnification lens.

Internally Flawless (I.F) when it presents no internal defects under 10x magnification.

Very slightly included (V.V.S.1 to V.V.S.2) when it presents defects that are very difficult to locate under 10x magnification.

Slightly Included (S.I.1 to S.I.2) when it presents defects that are easy to locate under 10x magnification.

Imperfect (P.1 to I.1) when it presents defects that are hard to locate with the naked eye.

Imperfect (P.2 to I.2) when it presents defects that are easy to locate with the naked eye.

Imperfect (P.3 to I.3) when it presents defects that are very easy to locate with the naked eye.

Next is the cut of the diamond and the cut has nothing to do with the shape of the diamond.  The proportions and symmetry of the diamond cut determines the light dispersion, brilliance or life of the diamond.  If the diamond’s reflective qualities are below standard then the appearance of the diamond will be adversely affected.  Many of the diamond cut over a couple hundred years ago were cut to maximize the carat weight with little regard to the diamond’s reflective qualities.  Many of the older stones have been recut to increase its brilliance.  A good cut give the diamond it brilliance or the ability to handle light in a pleasing fashion.  The brightness will seem to come from the very heart of a diamond.

 American Star 

In 2001 the EightStar company of California wanted to prove that optical perfection of the round brilliant diamonds could be obtained by using an exclusive light-tracking instrument called a FireScope which allows a diamond cutter to align facets so precisely that the flow of light into and out of a diamonds can be completely controlled.  The American Star as slowly cut from 14.89 to 13.42 carats over a six-week period.  Cutting the diamond for maximum light output and not size increased the beauty of the American Star and many of the older diamonds have gone through a recut.

There are several standard categories for the shape of the diamond but there are many variations on each standard categories.  Basic categories include Round, Emerald, Pear, Heart, Marquise, Oval, and Princess cuts.

The final shape of the raw diamond us usually determined by the imperfections found in the diamond.  Many imperfectsions can be remove or hidden by and experienced jeweler in mounting the diamond in the final jewelry piece and by the proper cut of the diamond.

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the American Gem Society (AGS), and the International Gemological Institute (IGI) are the three most widely known and respected diamond grading laboratories in the world.  Each of the grading laboratories have developed a very similar nomenclature for identifying the 4 C’s of diamonds.

 D to Z 

Color grading scales used by the internationally recognized laboratories (GIA & IGI for example), ranges from totally colorless (D) to pale yellow or brown color (Z).  Brown diamonds darker than K color are usually described using their letter grade, and a descriptive phrase, for example M Faint Brown.  Diamonds with more depth of color than Z color fall into the fancy color diamond range.

The coloration of diamonds can be caused by several factors.  Impurities trapped in the diamond during its formation, the crystal lattice structure of the diamond, and the exposure to radiation can all lead to the wide verity of colors available in diamonds.

 Yellow Diamonds 

Yellow diamonds are colored because of the impurities that are trapped inside diamonds when they are created.  If a few of the millions of carbon atoms have been replaced by nitrogen atoms, then structure of the diamond will not be significantly altered but the clarity will be changed.  The amount of color displayed is dependent on the amount of nitrogen involved.

When we see color it is because the object we are looking at reflected a specific wavelength of the light spectrum.  A good example of this is a yellow flower.  The flower absorbs all of the light except the yellow light, which is reflected by the yellow flower.

 Blue Heart Diamond 

In the case of a blue colored diamond some of the nitrogen has been replaced by Boron.  Boron will reflect the blue wavelength of the light spectrum.  The higher the concentration of boron the more color will be showed.  At a level of one or a few boron atoms for every million-carbon atom, an attractive blue color results.

 Graff Pink Supreme Diamond 

The pink diamonds comes in shades ranging from a pastel rose, such as the Pink Orchid to intense purple-reds of the Moussaieff Red, and the price is determined by the intensity of the color.  Pink diamonds have sold for up to $1,000,000 a carat.  Unlike the Type I diamonds that derived their color from impurities embedded in the diamond, Pink diamonds are considered a Type II and get their color from a process known as Plastic Deformation.

Type II diamonds have very few if any nitrogen impurities in them.  They get their coloration due to structural anomalies caused by Plastic Deformation during the crystal growth.  The intense pressure changes the lattice structure of diamonds and has led to the formation of Pink, and Red colored diamonds.

 Green Diamond 

A natural diamond coming into contact with a radioactive source at some point during its lifetime causes some diamonds to develop a green coloration.  The time required may be as much as a million years or longer.  Green diamonds of this nature are very unique.

The most common form of irradiation diamonds comes from alpha particles found in uranium compounds or from percolating groundwater.  Green spots on the surface of the diamonds or a thin green film may develop on the skin of the diamond after long exposure to these particles.  Many times this green coloration will be removed during the cutting or faceting process.

Bombardment by beta and gamma rays will color the diamond to a greater depth and in some rare case turn the entire stone green.  Heating to temperature to just below 600 degrees Celsius can sometimes also cause a diamond to develop a green ting.  Higher temperature may turn the stone to a less desirable yellow or brown color.

 Black Diamond 

Black diamonds are found only in Brazil and the Central African Republic.  Approximately 600 tons of conventional diamonds have been mined, traded, polished since 1900. But not a single black diamond has been discovered in the world’s mining fields.  The geological settings where diamonds are found or mined are virtually identical with the one exception, the Black Diamond.

Black diamonds have been found to contain trace elements of nitrogen and hydrogen.  The study published in 2006 analyzed the hydrogen in black diamond samples using infrared-detection instruments and found that the quantity indicated that the mineral formed in a supernova explosion prior to the formation of the Solar System.  These diamonds were formed by carbon-rich cosmic dust in an environment near carbon stars. The diamonds were incorporated into solid bodies that subsequently fell to Earth as meteorites.