Precise twisting with sharper angles reflect the light and create a fancy effect to this striking earring. Fitted with a U-shaped hinge bar. Hollow. Nine carat white gold. Made in Italy. Weight: 0.9g RRP £36.0000 You save £13.32(37%)
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The cut of a diamond is the physical measurement and relative proportion of a polished diamond and is the most important characteristic in producing a diamond’s beauty. A single number does not define cut. Instead, it is a myriad of measurements, relative percentages, angles, finish, and performance of light within the diamond.
The brilliance and sparkle of a diamond is the result of the reflection and refraction of light within a diamond and is the cumulative effect of the many facets on the surface of the three-dimensional diamond shape. What makes judging cut difficult is that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Different people perceive the beauty of a diamond differently in terms of what they perceive as beautiful.
In recent years, major diamond grading laboratories like the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the American Gem Society (AGS) have established cut grades to help the consumer make better decisions for purchasing diamonds based on cut characteristics. However, the cut grading systems are different from each other and constantly changing. As a result, there is no single official cut grade but the current systems are a giant leap ahead of the past with no cut grades.
The quality of the cut is most visible in terms of how light performs in a diamond to produce Brightness, Fire, and Scintillation.
Brightness is the visual effect of all the internal and external reflections of white light. This brightness (also known as brilliance) results primarily from the angles of the facets and the relative size of the top facet called the table.
Fire is the visual effect of rainbow colored flashes of light caused by the separation of white light into various colors when the diamond acts as a prism.
Scintillation is the visual effect of sparkle and patterns of light and darkness. Sparkle is the points of light that flash as the diamond, the light source or the observer moves. The arrangement and contrast between the bright and dark areas is important to what the eye perceives as beautiful. An all-bright diamond or an all-dark diamond is less attractive than a diamond with a balanced, symmetrical and contrasting pattern of reflection.
Some of the more important diamond measurements influencing the cut grade are depth percentage, table percentage, crown angle, and pavilion angle. The initial cut grade research focused on round brilliant diamond shapes but the grading laboratories are slowly introducing cut grades for the fancy shapes like the princess, emerald, oval, radiant, cushion and others. Each diamond shape has its own set of cut parameters that produce the optimal light performance and beauty for that particular diamond shape.
If the cut of the diamond is the key to its beauty, why would anyone purchase a diamond without great cut? Probably the main reason is lack of knowledge by the consumer. Until recent years, it has been difficult for the consumer to assess the cut of the diamond because jewelers focused on color, clarity and carat weight. The jeweler used the bright lights in the showroom to mask the light performance of the diamond. As the diamond shopper becomes more aware of what constitutes cut and has access to the GIA or AGS cut grades on the diamond grading reports, they will be able to filter out the average and poor cut diamonds in their purchase decisions.
Sometimes budget is a factor in purchasing something less than the best cut. However, cut is typically a real bargain since there is little visual difference between the top echelons of diamond cut and the price difference between average and exceptional cut is often minimal. Perhaps the real cost of getting better cut in a diamond, is the time and effort to learn about cut and to find a retailer who can provide diamonds with exceptional cut at reasonable prices.
Once a diamond shopper has determined what shape of diamond they want to purchase, they need to research what cut parameters contribute to desirable appearance. Some diamond shoppers fall into a trap of narrowly defining their acceptable range for every diamond measurement, not realizing that the beauty of the diamond results from the interrelationships of all the facets. Simply picking the middle of the range for each parameter can lead to a mediocre result. The cut grades are an attempt to rate how a combination of factors work together in the diamond.
Regardless of the cut grade systems today or in the future, only the diamond shopper can determine what is most appealing to their eye. Cut is critical to the beauty of the diamond so making the best diamond purchase decision means understanding the importance of cut and finding that special diamond that is beautiful to behold.
What is the diamond shape
Many buyers often confuse between the diamond cut and shape of a diamond. The cut of a diamond refers to the number of facets and angles of a diamond. The shape of a diamond however refers to the geometrical form of a diamond, after it has been cut and polished. Here is a list of the popular shapes available in the market and how buyers can choose from them.
Round diamonds
These are by far the most popular and expensive, and not without reason. Round brilliant have the maximum fire and brilliance. They also give flexibility for balancing the grades of color, cut and clarity. Finally, these can be put into diverse settings quite easily. These diamonds have fifty eight facets (including the culet). Highest brilliance can be obtained by choosing round diamonds of ideal or very good grades of cut. The ideal proportions are achieved in round brilliants only, by maintaining proportions.
Round Brilliant Diamond
Emerald shaped diamonds
As the name implies, this shape was more popular for emeralds before it was used on diamonds. Thus stones here are basically rectangular in shape while the pavilion is cut with rectangular facets. Corners are cropped for added effect. Step cuts that resemble stairs, in the stone give it a special optical appearance of flashes of light. The large and open table of the emerald shape especially highlights the clarity of the stone. While opting for an emerald shaped diamond it is therefore important to choose a stone with high clarity and few inclusions. Location of the inclusions on the stone are also of importance and buyers must take care that the inclusions are not present near the table where they are easily visible. Price wise this shape is more economical as compared to the expensive round or princess diamonds.
Emerald Shape Diamond
Princess shaped diamonds
Besides the round diamonds, the princess shape is the next more popular and preferred shape, especially for engagement rings. The shape is highly popular for its property to bring out the best brilliance in a square cut diamond. This is a typically square or rectangular shaped diamond that comes with pointed corners and many sparkling facets. This cut is relatively new as compared to other shapes and looks quite flattering on long and slender fingers. While buying a princess shaped diamond, it is important to consider the length to width ratio of the stone. While a length to width ratio between 1 to 1.05 is suitable for square shaped princess diamonds, buyers may prefer a length to width ratio greater that 1.10 if looking for more rectangular princess diamonds. Also this cut requires more depth as compared to other cuts and thus a depth percentage of 70% or more is taken.
Princess Shape Diamond
Oval shaped diamonds
Oval shaped diamonds are quite popular in the market too and are well known for their flattering effect of length on short fingers. This shape is noted to have been created and introduced by Lazare Kaplan way back in the 1960s. Usually noted to have 56 facets, the weight of such diamonds is estimated by measuring the length and width of the stone. A ratio of 1.33 to 1.66 provides a good traditional range of oval shaped diamonds. While choosing an oval diamond ensure that it has ‘shape appeal’. Watch out for uneven shoulders or high shoulders or a bow-tie effect that can be visible to the naked eye. Also choose a good setting either in the east-west or north-south direction so that the diamond has high appeal.
Oval Shape Diamond
Marquise diamonds
This is an elongated diamond with both ends pointed. These diamonds are known to have taken their name from the famous smile of Marquise de Pompadour. It is renowned for its property to give a bigger looking diamond. Diamonds with this shape usually have 56 facets. The ideal length to width ratios while opting for marquise diamonds fall within 1.75 and 2.25. Buyers must look out for shape appeal and for a bow tie effect that is often visible in poorly shaped Marquise diamonds.
Marquise Shape Diamond
Pear shaped diamonds
This is also known as the teardrop shape owing to its resemblance and is considered as a hybrid between the marquise cut and the round brilliant diamond. The stone has one end rounded while the other end is pointed. Buyers can opt between varying length and width ratios for the ideal looking pear shaped diamond. Length to width ratios between 1.45 and 1.75 are suitable. Buyers should be careful while choosing stones and must look out for a bow-tie effect visible to the naked eye.
Pear Shaped Diamond
Cushion shaped diamonds
The cushion shaped diamonds are also known as pillow cut or candlelight diamonds, owing to the number of years for which this shape has had popularity. Those were ancient times, when stones were viewed in candlelight rather than artificial light. They have round corners and larger sized facets that enhance the brilliance of the stone. While this shape is not as fiery and brilliant as princess shaped diamonds, it lends a certain elegance to diamonds and is thus adopted by many. The cushion shape more or less resembles a hybrid between the old mine cut and the modern oval shape. As in other square stones, one can opt for cushion shaped diamonds that are square or rectangular. Finally, opt for cushion shape only if you plan to invest in diamonds over one carat.
Cushion Shape Diamond
Radiant diamonds
Radiant diamonds come with trimmed corners that gives this diamond its special shape. The shape can be both rectangular and square and buyers should consider the length to width ratio of the stone while opting. Usually the shape has seventy facets and more weight is directed into the depth of the stone for giving a high brilliance. A ratio of 1 to 1.05 gives a more square looking shape while a ratio over 1.10 gives a more rectangular looking diamond.
Radiant Brilliant
Heart diamonds
Heart diamonds are a symbol of love and are opted for by many. The diamond is typically a pear shaped diamond with the rounded end comprising of a cleft. Much skill goes into giving the perfect heart shaped diamond to dance with brilliance. It is thus advisable that before buying heart shaped diamonds, maximum attention be given to the cut and the highest grade of diamond cut be selected for purchase. Length to width ratios between 0.90 and 1.10 are advisable, but do be sure about the kind of heart shape you require, elongated and slim or short and broad.
Heart Shape
Asscher shape
The asscher shape resemble emerald cut diamonds with the exception that the diamond is square instead of rectangular. As compared to an emerald shape, this shape usually has a higher brilliance, smaller table and a deeper pavilion. Also the stone has bigger step facets. The shape highlights the clarity of the diamond and it is important to take a diamond with minimal inclusions, especially at the table, while opting for this shape. While you can opt for any carat weight in the asscher shape, you will get an amazing range even under one carat size. Look for shape appeal before purchasing the stone without using a loupe.
Asscher Cut
Trilliant shape
This special shape first designed in Amsterdam, gives a diamond the look of brilliant dancing fire. The stone basically has a triangular shape with pointed or rounded edges. There are usually twenty five facets on the crown and nineteen facets on the pavilion. The girdle is polished.
Trilliant Shape Diamond
What buyers must look for
Keeping the following aspects in mind will assist diamond buyers greatly while choosing a good diamond.
Usage: While all diamonds look beautiful, the right selection of shape can prove extremely beautiful. Thus while a woman with a small hand may prefer a princess shaped diamond or a round one, long fingers are better accentuated by a marquise shape or oval shaped diamond. Finally an elongated pear shaped diamond can make fingers appear slimmer and slender.
Appeal: Shape appeal is another important factor that buyers must consider. Look for a stone that appeals well to the unaided eye. This can be checked through considering the girdle of the stone. Also look for the bow tie effect that can be quite prominent in certain stones.
Size of diamond: While the carat weight determines the size of a diamond, a difference in shape can also make the size of the diamond look different. Thus a one carat emerald shaped diamond with less depth and more surface area can appear bigger as compared to a two carat round brilliant stone. The marquise shape is another option that can make a low carat diamond appear much bigger.
Clarity: Certain shapes like the Asscher and emerald shapes tend to highlight the clarity of the diamond. Thus if buyers are opting for stones of grade SI, it is important to check where the inclusions are present.
Setting of the stone: Finally the right setting of the diamond can accentuate its shape and appearance on wearing. Small round diamonds on either side of a marquise finger ring, can make fingers appear longer. Also in princess and emerald shaped diamonds, buyers must check that the setting protects the four corners, which can otherwise chip easily. Four pronged settings are thus advisable for such shapes.
Besides the above, diamonds take on various other shapes that are a hybrid of the above. Most of these shapes take form owing to the creativity of the cutter and the original shape of the diamond from which the shape is inspired, for retaining maximum carat weight and brilliance. While the shape you buy is finally your individual preference, opt for the right diamond with great care.