Advanced Diamond Tutorial by Emma Parker & Co. Chapter 1
Author: // Category: Diamond ArticlesThe reason that it is so important to understand that uniqueness of diamonds, the difficulty with which the cutting process is fraught, the immense variation in cut grading, and the application of scientific tests, is that this understanding is imperative to gaining a full comprehension of diamond “certs”, how they are produced, and why there are so many conflicting opinions in the industry.The diamond “cert” as it has become known, is in actuality, not a certificate, as the name would suggest, but is rather a report issued by the gemological laboratory that was paid, by the diamond’s owner, to grade the diamond. The report, commonly called the “cert” (this will be referred to as a “lab grading report” for the remainder of this tutorial), is a printed record of the gemological lab’s determinations as to the quality of the diamond. The findings, although based on a scientific grading system, are really a codified representation of a subjective grading analysis that was performed by one or several human graders, each subject to their own grading style and grading predispositions. Each gemological laboratory has its own individual grading process, that stems off of its unique grading protocol, using its own predetermined course of grading procedures, and employing its own preselected scientific equipment for testing and observing the stone in question.The fact that there are many different gemological laboratories, each with its own grading system, has lead to a wide variety of “lab grading reports” being issued on diamonds, and presented to the general consumer as absolute fact about the quality of the diamond being purchased.Of course, at this point, the question must be asked…why are there so many standards…and why has no single standard been determined? The answer is quite simple. Most consumers, when presented with a “lab grading report”, are wiling to take the information being presented about the stone at face value, many times with little or no knowledge about the gemological laboratory, its grading practices and procedures, or its reputation in the market place. This action by consumers, and the fact that retailers are aware of this fact, has lead to a very simple, yet very detrimental trend in the diamond grading industry. Consider this…if the average consumer takes a “lab grading report” at face value, without regard to the quality of the grading performed by the lab; and the value of a diamond rests almost entirely, excepting its weight, on areas of subjective grading; i.e. cut quality, color, and clarity; a lab that grades on a loose standard (issuing reports that give diamonds a slightly better grade than the lab’s stricter competitors would give) would allow retailers to present a “lab grading report” that is more “favorable” as well as giving them the ability to charge a higher price for a lower quality stone. The main basis for many labs that grade based on loose criteria is that of consumer ignorance. Diamond cutters, wholesalers, and retailers use these labs to grade their diamonds in an effort to increase the value and salability of their inventory, with the by-product of this effort being added expense to the consumer. It is imperative that, as a consumer, you have a solid understanding of the major gemological laboratories in the market, their grading systems, and their reputations for the accuracy of the “lab grading reports” that they issue. Below is a short list of the major gemological laboratories, in the basic order of their grading strictness.NOTE: It is important to remember that diamond grading is done by humans, which means that human error is a possibility. It is possible for any gemological laboratory to make a mistake in the grading of a diamond. Diamond Grading Laboratories• American Gemological Society Laboratory (AGSL or AGS)• Gemological Institute of America (GIA)• Gem Certification and Assurance Lab (GCAL)• HRD Antwerp• European Gemological Laboratories USA (EGL USA)• European Gemological Laboratories (EGL)• European Gemological Laboratories Israel• International Gemological Institute (IGI)Written by Timothy Andre, Emma Parker & Co. www.emmaparkerdiamonds.com