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The cut of a diamond is the physical measurement and relative proportion of a polished diamond and is the most important characteristic in producing a diamond’s beauty. A single number does not define cut. Instead, it is a myriad of measurements, relative percentages, angles, finish, and performance of light within the diamond.

The brilliance and sparkle of a diamond is the result of the reflection and refraction of light within a diamond and is the cumulative effect of the many facets on the surface of the three-dimensional diamond shape. What makes judging cut difficult is that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Different people perceive the beauty of a diamond differently in terms of what they perceive as beautiful.

In recent years, major diamond grading laboratories like the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the American Gem Society (AGS) have established cut grades to help the consumer make better decisions for purchasing diamonds based on cut characteristics. However, the cut grading systems are different from each other and constantly changing. As a result, there is no single official cut grade but the current systems are a giant leap ahead of the past with no cut grades.

The quality of the cut is most visible in terms of how light performs in a diamond to produce Brightness, Fire, and Scintillation.

Brightness is the visual effect of all the internal and external reflections of white light. This brightness (also known as brilliance) results primarily from the angles of the facets and the relative size of the top facet called the table.

Fire is the visual effect of rainbow colored flashes of light caused by the separation of white light into various colors when the diamond acts as a prism.

Scintillation is the visual effect of sparkle and patterns of light and darkness. Sparkle is the points of light that flash as the diamond, the light source or the observer moves. The arrangement and contrast between the bright and dark areas is important to what the eye perceives as beautiful. An all-bright diamond or an all-dark diamond is less attractive than a diamond with a balanced, symmetrical and contrasting pattern of reflection.

Some of the more important diamond measurements influencing the cut grade are depth percentage, table percentage, crown angle, and pavilion angle. The initial cut grade research focused on round brilliant diamond shapes but the grading laboratories are slowly introducing cut grades for the fancy shapes like the princess, emerald, oval, radiant, cushion and others. Each diamond shape has its own set of cut parameters that produce the optimal light performance and beauty for that particular diamond shape.

If the cut of the diamond is the key to its beauty, why would anyone purchase a diamond without great cut? Probably the main reason is lack of knowledge by the consumer. Until recent years, it has been difficult for the consumer to assess the cut of the diamond because jewelers focused on color, clarity and carat weight. The jeweler used the bright lights in the showroom to mask the light performance of the diamond. As the diamond shopper becomes more aware of what constitutes cut and has access to the GIA or AGS cut grades on the diamond grading reports, they will be able to filter out the average and poor cut diamonds in their purchase decisions.

Sometimes budget is a factor in purchasing something less than the best cut. However, cut is typically a real bargain since there is little visual difference between the top echelons of diamond cut and the price difference between average and exceptional cut is often minimal. Perhaps the real cost of getting better cut in a diamond, is the time and effort to learn about cut and to find a retailer who can provide diamonds with exceptional cut at reasonable prices.

Once a diamond shopper has determined what shape of diamond they want to purchase, they need to research what cut parameters contribute to desirable appearance. Some diamond shoppers fall into a trap of narrowly defining their acceptable range for every diamond measurement, not realizing that the beauty of the diamond results from the interrelationships of all the facets. Simply picking the middle of the range for each parameter can lead to a mediocre result. The cut grades are an attempt to rate how a combination of factors work together in the diamond.

Regardless of the cut grade systems today or in the future, only the diamond shopper can determine what is most appealing to their eye. Cut is critical to the beauty of the diamond so making the best diamond purchase decision means understanding the importance of cut and finding that special diamond that is beautiful to behold.

Click the Certificate link below to learn all about A.G.S – American Gem Society or the G.I.A – Gemological Institute America.

CUT…A diamond’s cut is not only about its shape, but how effectively the stone can return light back to the viewer’s eye. A well-cut diamond will appear very brilliant and fiery; while more poorly cut stones can appear dark and lifeless, regardless of color or clarity.

Color…When shopping for a diamond, it is generally preferred to have the least amount of color possible. Diamond color is divided into five broad categories:

Colorless: Diamonds within the colorless range are the most rare and valuable of all the colors. color stones display virtually no color, whereas colored diamonds will display a nearly undetected amount of color when viewed face down by a gemologist.

Near Colorless: Diamonds within the near colorless range appear colorless in the face up position, but do display a slight amount of color when viewed face down against a perfectly white background. This trace amount of color will be undetectable to an untrained eye once the diamond has been mounted. Near colorless diamonds offer a tremendous value for the money.

Understanding Fluorescence – How does it effect a diamond?

Some diamonds can display a visible light called fluorescence when exposed to an ultraviolet light source. This fluorescence will be measured as inert, faint, medium or strong. Blue fluorescence is most common, however diamonds can also fluoresce white, yellow, and orange (among other colors). Fluorescence usually has no effect on a diamonds appearance in regular light conditions. Strong blue fluorescence can make a yellow colored diamond appear more white, but in rare cases can cause a stone to appear milky or oily. This milky or oily effect is called an “over blue” and only applies to a small number of “strong” and “very strong” fluorescent stones.

Which Color should you Choose?

Most people find it very difficult (if not impossible) to tell the difference from one color grade to another. The difference in price, however, can be significant.However, you can find a tremendous value while still achieving a “colorless” look. Shopping on a budget or trying to maximize the size of your stone? If so then “J” diamonds are most affordable and still near colorless. You may also want to consider choosing a diamond with medium or strong fluorescence. Since these diamonds are discounted slightly in price you can often afford a higher color stone without paying the premium.

Angola

In 1998, the United Nations (UN) placed Angola under sanctions forbidding countries from buying diamonds from them. This was the first resolution of the UN which specifically mentioned diamonds in the context of funding war. Reports estimated that as much as 20% of total production in the 1990s were being sold for illicit purposes, and 15% were specifically conflict in nature.By 1999, the illicit diamond trade was estimated by the World Diamond Council to have been reduced to 3.06% of the world’s diamond production.The World Diamond Council reported that by 2004 this percentage had fallen to approximately 1%.

Angola is a former colony of Portugal and gained independence in 1975. Although independent, the country saw civil war between the Popular Movement for the Liberation of Angola (PMLA) faction, and the National Union for the Total Independence of Angola (UNITA) faction. During this war, diamonds were traded by rebel groups to fund their war. The UN recognized the role that diamonds played in funding the UNITA rebels, and in 1998 banned countries from buying diamonds from Angola. Today Angola’s civil war has ended and the country is now a legitimate part of the diamond trade.

Sierra Leone

In July 1999, following over eight years of civil conflict, negotiations between the Government of Sierra Leone and the Revolutionary United Front led to the signing of the Lome Peace Agreement under which the parties agreed to the cessation of hostilities, disarmament of all combatants and the formation of a government of national unity. The United Nations and the Economic Community of West African States (ECOWAS) helped facilitate the negotiations. In resolution 1270 of October 22, 1999, the Security Council established the United Nations Mission in Sierra Leone (UNAMSIL) to help create the conditions in which the parties could implement the Agreement. Subsequently, the number of personnel were increased and tasks to be carried out by UNAMSIL adjusted by the Council in resolutions 1289 of February 8, 2000 and 1299 of May 19, 2000, making UNAMSIL the second largest peacekeeping force currently deployed by the United Nations (the largest such contingent is in the Congo.

Following international concern at the role played by the illicit diamond trade in fueling conflict in Sierra Leone, the Security Council adopted resolution 1306 on July 5, 2000 imposing a ban on the direct or indirect import of rough diamonds from Sierra Leone not controlled by the Government of Sierra Leone through a Certificate of Origin regime. An arms embargo and selective travel ban on non-governmental forces were already in effect under resolution 1171 of June 5, 1998.

On July 31, 2000 and August 1, 2000, Ambassador Anwarul Karim Chowdhury, Chairman of the Security Council Committee established pursuant to resolution 1132 (1997) concerning Sierra Leone, presided over the first ever exploratory public hearing by the Security Council in New York. The hearing was attended by representatives of interested Member States, regional organizations, non-governmental organizations, the diamond industry and other relevant experts. The hearing exposed the link between the trade in illicit Sierra Leone diamonds and trade in arms and related material. The ways and means for developing a sustainable and well-regulated diamond industry in Sierra Leone were also discussed.

As called for by resolution 1306 of July 5, 2000, the Secretary-General, on August 2, 2000, established a Panel of Experts, to collect information on possible violations of the arms embargo and the link between trade in diamonds and trade in arms and related material, consider the adequacy of air traffic control systems in the West African region for the purpose of detecting flights suspected of contravening the arms embargo, and report to the Council with observations and recommendations on ways of strengthening the arms and diamonds embargoes no later than October 3, 2000. The Chairman of the Panel was Martin Chungong Ayafor (Cameroon). The other members were Atabou Bodian (Senegal), Johan Peleman (Belgium), Harjit Singh Sandhu (India) and Ian Smillie (Canada). The Panel submitted its report to the Security Council on December 19, 2000. On January 25, 2001 the Security Council, at its 4264th meeting, considered the report of the panel of experts.

Diamond revenues in Sierra Leone have increased more than tenfold since the end of the conflict, from $10 million in 2000 to about $130 million in 2004,although from 1989 to 2003 Liberia was engaged in a civil war. In 2000, the UN accused Liberian president Charles G. Taylor of supporting the RUF insurgency in Sierra Leone with weapons and training in exchange for diamonds. In 2001 the UN applied sanctions on the Liberian diamond trade. In August 2003 Taylor stepped down as president, and after being exiled to Nigeria, now faces trial in the Hague. On July 21, 2006 he pleaded not guilty of crimes against humanity and war crimes.

Liberia today is at peace and is attempting to construct a legitimate diamond mining industry. The UN has lifted sanctions and Liberia is now a member of the Kimberley process.

Emma Parker & Co.’s Advance Diamond TutorialIntroductionWelcome to Emma Parker & Co.’s Advance Diamond Tutorial. Before we begin to dig into the deepest areas of the subject of diamonds, let me take a moment to set a little background that will help you as you journey through this document.Before you read any further…you should have read Emma Parker & Co.’s Diamond Tutorial. There is much foundation there that will give you a good base to start from. There will also be instances throughout this tutorial where references will be made to certain items or occurrences without explanation…a solid understanding of the basics of diamonds will be critical at that point. In this tutorial, we will seek to explore diamond cut from top to bottom, starting with a simple breakdown of cut…then moving into more in depth subjects such as facet breakdown, proportions, and measurements. We hope that you enjoy this tutorial, and that it will be useful to you in your diamond search. So now, without further delay, Emma Parker & Co. is proud to present our Advanced Diamond Tutorial.Diamond Cut…The BasicsOne of the biggest misconceptions of “diamond cut” held by the average consumer today is that the term “diamond cut” means “diamond shape”. The two are totally separate and distinct terms, and mean completely different things. “Diamond shape” is exactly that…it is the shape of the diamond…be it round, square, cushion, princess, or any of a number of shapes that are available in the marketplace. “Diamond cut”, however, refers to the angles, measurements, proportions, and facet structure of the diamond. The “diamond cut” directly impacts that visual beauty of the diamond, through its ability to reflect light, and therefore is considered by most gemologists to be the most important factor that should be considered when selecting a quality stone. It is important to understand that there is no base set measurements for “diamond cut” that apply to diamonds in general. Each diamond shape has a different set of proportions and measurements that, when put together in the correct way, create the pinnacle of optical beauty and performance for that particular shape. Thus, for consumers, it should be very easy to spot a “scam” or “generalized sales push” when a set of measurements or series of criteria is presented as being supreme to all diamonds. A perfect example of this is the gross misuse of the term “ideal” in the industry. Ever since the introduction of this term by gemological laboratories, it has been loosely applied to diamonds, with reckless abandon, in an effort to sway customers as to the quality of the diamond. Simple and deceptive tactics…which will be illustrated later on in this tutorial…combined with frequent and loose usage of terms such as “ideal” and “excellent”…have caused massive confusion for consumers seeking to purchase a quality product with their hard earned money.While there are many differing opinions on what constitutes the “best” cut stone, most of the valid opinions on the subject do have a significant amount of overlap, and therefore, by looking at the intersection point of these different theories, consumers can be sure that they will purchase a beautiful diamond.BEWARE THE TRAP! There is NO SUCH THING as the BEST diamond. Diamonds are like fingerprints, there are no two alike. Every single stone has a different personality and carries its own defining marks. This applies to the cut of the stone as well. Hence the search for the world’s best diamond is a purely subjective one, which will yield a different result for each person that attempts the search. It has been an observation of mine, that customers often paralyze themselves with fear, by dwelling on the thought that if they only wait for the next diamond…that one will be “the best”.  While the selection process is a difficult one, and should not be approached with a cavalier attitude, it is critical that you, as a consumer, not handicap yourself with the fear which comes from trying to find the “perfect diamond”. There are many beautiful diamonds in the world, and taking simple steps to find one of them will lead you to a very rewarding end to your quest. Written by Timothy Andre, Emma Parker & Co.     www.emmaparkerdiamonds.com

Diamond Cut…The Basics: Step 1 – Understanding diamond “certs”Chapter 2If you are going to purchase a diamond, and know what you are getting when you purchase it, you need to be able to understand the information that is presented on a “lab grading report”, and how the information was obtained. Having this knowledge will further assist you to know if any follow up/independent data, presented to you by the jeweler, in conjunction with a “lab grading report”, is valid and accurate. Here are several examples of “lab grading reports”. To gain a better understanding of how information is broken down on a lab report, we will examine one line by line. NOTE: We will not be discussing the relevance of this information to the diamond’s cut quality, as that will be done in detail later on in this tutorial. GIA Lab Grading ReportFigure 2.1

EGL USA Lab Grading ReportFigure 2.2

For the purposes of this tutorial, we will examine the AGS Lab Grading Report. Most reports have similar information on them and are simply arranged differently. Immediately below is the full copy of the “lab grading report”. Since the lettering on this report is quite small, we have included enlarged portions of the report below that will allow us to examine the information contained in this report more closely.AGS Lab Grading ReportFigure 2.3

Figure 2.4

Figure 2.5

Figure 2.6

If we examine Figure 2.4, we see that this area of the report displays the basic information about the diamond. Let’s break this down point by point•    Shape and Style

•    Measurements

•    Cut Grade

•    Color Grade

•    Clarity Grade

•    Carat Weight

NOTE: A very important fact to understand about Color and Clarity is that the grading standards vary widely from on grading laboratory to another. Some of have much stricter standards than others, and this is something that should be carefully considered before purchasing a diamond. Looking at Figure 2.5, we can see a proportion map of the diamond, with basic proportion and measurement data. The first thing that we notice when looking at this, is that the only two standards of measurements used are Percentages and Degrees. The very first measurement of the diamond is the 100%, which is equal to the average diameter of the stone at its widest point, the girdle. It is based off of this percentage that all of the other percentage measurements are calculated.Directly under this measurement, we can see the 55.4% measurement. This is the diameter of the Table Facet, expressed in a percentage of the total average diameter. The vertical line along the left had diamond is the measurement of the Total Depth of the diamond, again, expressed as a percentage of the total average diameter, in this case, 61.9%The vertical line along the right side of the diamond, broken into three different measurements essentially breaks down the factors that make up the total depth of the diamond. These three factors are called Crown Height, Girdle Thickness, and Pavilion Depth.  In this case you can see the three measurements are as follows.•    Crown Height – 15.5%•    Girdle Thickness – 1.6% to 4.4%•    Pavilion Depth – 42.8%The two angle measurements on the left hand side of the graph are the Crown Angle and Pavilion Angle measurements. In this case, the Crown Angle is 34.8 degrees, and the Pavilion angle is 40.6 degrees.The two numbers in the diamond represent facet length measurements.  The measurement in the small facets on top is the Star Facet Length, and the measurement in the slightly larger facets on the bottom is the Lower Girdle Facet Length. For this diamond, the Star Facets measure 51% and the Lower Girdle Facet’s measure 75%. It is very important to understand that these two percentages are not calculated against the total depth. Rather Star Facet Lengths are expressed as a percentage of the total distance between the edge of the Table and the edge of the Girdle. Lower Girdle Facet Lengths are expressed in a percentage of the total distance between the Culet and the edge of the Girdle. (See illustration below)Star Fact MeasurementThe Green arrow, in Figure 2.7, represents 100% of the distance from the edge of the TABLE to the edge of the GIRDLE. The STAR FACET measurement is expressed as a percentage of the total measurement.Figure 2.7

Lower Girdle Facet MeasurementThe green arrow in Figure 2.8 represents 100% of the distance between the edge of the GIRDLE and the CULET. The LOWER GIRDLE FACET measurement is expressed as a percentage of the total measurement. Figure 2.8

Lastly at the bottom, we see the Culet Size. This is almost always expressed as a word. Culet sizes vary including sizes of None, Pointed, Very Small, Small, Medium, etc.The last graphic we see, Figure 2.6, is the Clarity Plot of the diamond. This is where the grading inclusions, that were visible at 10x magnification, are plotted by the grader. Clarity has already been discussed in brief in the Emma Parker & Co. Diamond Tutorial, however there are some simple hints to help you spot important information on the Clarity Plot. All inclusions plotted in RED INK are INTERNAL inclusions. All inclusions plotted in GREEN INK are EXTERNAL inclusions. This basic walk through of the information that is listed on a lab grading report will give you a good foundation in what information you will be presented with later on in this tutorial, and what each measurement relates to. In the following chapters we are going to dig deeper into cut, what to look for in a great cut, what tools and reports are useful in looking for a good cut and how to read them, and more. Written by Timothy Andre, Emma Parker & Co.     www.emmaparkerdiamonds.com

A diamond’s price is directly related to the combination of the five C’s. Diamond prices are determined first by adding the cost of the rough diamond, the cost of cutting the diamond, and all other costs necessary to turn the rough diamond into a marketable diamond. Depending on the importance of the diamond, an independent company may be called into certify the grade of the diamond based on color, cut, clarity carat and cost.

The same principle applies at the dividing line for 2 and 3 carat diamonds etc.-as the price increases in leaps with each complete and full carat unit. Price jumps for full and numerically “round” “stages” are also applied to diamonds of lesser weights, i.e., a 50 points diamond vs. a 49 points diamond is more valuable weight per weight by being a “full” 1/2 carat (there are 100 ‘points’ in one carat. Thus, e.g., 0.50 or, 1/2 carat is equal to 50 points).

Color also plays an important role in determining a diamonds value. The price of a diamond varies quite sharply with color. As a rough guide, depending on market conditions, if a diamond with certain characteristics and weight of color “H” were worth 100 units of currency another with the same characteristics but of color “F” (two color levels higher) would be worth approximately 130 units, while one with color “J” (two color levels lower) would be worth 80. Moves in clarity grades will affect the price in a similar manner.

As the combinations of clarity, cut and color increases in “total score” — their effect on price becomes greater. However, due to the numerous different possible combinations of Clarity, Color and Cut grading for each Carat weight size the price of each stone is determined through the use of complicated formulas, through tables as well as through reliance on expertise and experience.

Cut and proportions play an important role since they make a lower quality diamond look good to the eye and they sharply reduces the price of high investment quality diamonds.

Cut is also the characteristic that is most neglected by diamond salespeople in the effort of making a sale. If the diamond is not well cut a fact which reduces the price of the diamond, the seller will emphasize the lower price rather than discuss the improper proportions.

Notice, however, that certain tolerances apply and the diamond with good overall cut is definitely acceptable.

Clarity is a term used to describe the absence or presence of flaws inside or on the surface of a diamond or other gemstone. A perfect stone with perfect clarity, or clearness, is rare, and most flaws that do exist in jewelry grade diamonds cannot be seen without looking at the gems through a jeweler’s magnifying loupe

The cost of buying diamonds can vary considerably.

Of course the difficulty with buying diamonds online is the uncertainty that you will get what you pay for, and how do you know you can trust the seller or dealer?

It is important therefore that you educate yourself very well with the various aspects of diamonds that you need to make an informed purchase.

First generally information about diamonds is offered through the on the right. The 5c’s of diamond cut, color clarity and carat weight, the basic facts about diamonds, how to sell a real diamond from a, imitation. Pls. visit our website http://djewels.org there are a huge collection of latest diamonds and diamond  jewelry.