My Pink Diamonds

Diamond Cut…The Basics: Step 1 – Understanding diamond “certs”Chapter 2If you are going to purchase a diamond, and know what you are getting when you purchase it, you need to be able to understand the information that is presented on a “lab grading report”, and how the information was obtained. Having this knowledge will further assist you to know if any follow up/independent data, presented to you by the jeweler, in conjunction with a “lab grading report”, is valid and accurate. Here are several examples of “lab grading reports”. To gain a better understanding of how information is broken down on a lab report, we will examine one line by line. NOTE: We will not be discussing the relevance of this information to the diamond’s cut quality, as that will be done in detail later on in this tutorial. GIA Lab Grading ReportFigure 2.1

EGL USA Lab Grading ReportFigure 2.2

For the purposes of this tutorial, we will examine the AGS Lab Grading Report. Most reports have similar information on them and are simply arranged differently. Immediately below is the full copy of the “lab grading report”. Since the lettering on this report is quite small, we have included enlarged portions of the report below that will allow us to examine the information contained in this report more closely.AGS Lab Grading ReportFigure 2.3

Figure 2.4

Figure 2.5

Figure 2.6

If we examine Figure 2.4, we see that this area of the report displays the basic information about the diamond. Let’s break this down point by point•    Shape and Style

•    Measurements

•    Cut Grade

•    Color Grade

•    Clarity Grade

•    Carat Weight

NOTE: A very important fact to understand about Color and Clarity is that the grading standards vary widely from on grading laboratory to another. Some of have much stricter standards than others, and this is something that should be carefully considered before purchasing a diamond. Looking at Figure 2.5, we can see a proportion map of the diamond, with basic proportion and measurement data. The first thing that we notice when looking at this, is that the only two standards of measurements used are Percentages and Degrees. The very first measurement of the diamond is the 100%, which is equal to the average diameter of the stone at its widest point, the girdle. It is based off of this percentage that all of the other percentage measurements are calculated.Directly under this measurement, we can see the 55.4% measurement. This is the diameter of the Table Facet, expressed in a percentage of the total average diameter. The vertical line along the left had diamond is the measurement of the Total Depth of the diamond, again, expressed as a percentage of the total average diameter, in this case, 61.9%The vertical line along the right side of the diamond, broken into three different measurements essentially breaks down the factors that make up the total depth of the diamond. These three factors are called Crown Height, Girdle Thickness, and Pavilion Depth.  In this case you can see the three measurements are as follows.•    Crown Height – 15.5%•    Girdle Thickness – 1.6% to 4.4%•    Pavilion Depth – 42.8%The two angle measurements on the left hand side of the graph are the Crown Angle and Pavilion Angle measurements. In this case, the Crown Angle is 34.8 degrees, and the Pavilion angle is 40.6 degrees.The two numbers in the diamond represent facet length measurements.  The measurement in the small facets on top is the Star Facet Length, and the measurement in the slightly larger facets on the bottom is the Lower Girdle Facet Length. For this diamond, the Star Facets measure 51% and the Lower Girdle Facet’s measure 75%. It is very important to understand that these two percentages are not calculated against the total depth. Rather Star Facet Lengths are expressed as a percentage of the total distance between the edge of the Table and the edge of the Girdle. Lower Girdle Facet Lengths are expressed in a percentage of the total distance between the Culet and the edge of the Girdle. (See illustration below)Star Fact MeasurementThe Green arrow, in Figure 2.7, represents 100% of the distance from the edge of the TABLE to the edge of the GIRDLE. The STAR FACET measurement is expressed as a percentage of the total measurement.Figure 2.7

Lower Girdle Facet MeasurementThe green arrow in Figure 2.8 represents 100% of the distance between the edge of the GIRDLE and the CULET. The LOWER GIRDLE FACET measurement is expressed as a percentage of the total measurement. Figure 2.8

Lastly at the bottom, we see the Culet Size. This is almost always expressed as a word. Culet sizes vary including sizes of None, Pointed, Very Small, Small, Medium, etc.The last graphic we see, Figure 2.6, is the Clarity Plot of the diamond. This is where the grading inclusions, that were visible at 10x magnification, are plotted by the grader. Clarity has already been discussed in brief in the Emma Parker & Co. Diamond Tutorial, however there are some simple hints to help you spot important information on the Clarity Plot. All inclusions plotted in RED INK are INTERNAL inclusions. All inclusions plotted in GREEN INK are EXTERNAL inclusions. This basic walk through of the information that is listed on a lab grading report will give you a good foundation in what information you will be presented with later on in this tutorial, and what each measurement relates to. In the following chapters we are going to dig deeper into cut, what to look for in a great cut, what tools and reports are useful in looking for a good cut and how to read them, and more. Written by Timothy Andre, Emma Parker & Co.     www.emmaparkerdiamonds.com

Diamond Cut: The Basics – Understanding TechnologyChapter 3In order to understand the different measurements, tests, and evaluations that diamonds are put through, and what the results of these test mean to the diamonds visual performance, it is necessary to first have a solid grasp on the technologies and techniques used to gather this data. There are many different tools that are used by gemologists and diamond graders to determine facts about a diamond’s properties. This section is going focus mostly on the more complex and less understood tools, and is also going to focus mostly on tools used to determine cut and light performance. Non-Contact ScannersThe Sarin machine is the most popular device in a small group of machines called “non-contact measuring devices”. These tools are, in essence, scanners that scan the outside surface of the diamond and measure all the flat surfaces of the stone. They do this by taking many 2 dimensional images of the diamond’s silhouette, and from these images, constructing a 3 dimensional model of the diamond, complete with measurements, that is able to be manipulated by the gemologist. Basically the Sarin is able to reconstruct the diamond in a virtual world with extreme accuracy. This is extremely useful for gaining measurements on the diamond, examining the cut of the diamond, determining angles, and more. In addition, the computer software is able to simulate light sources, thereby allowing the gemologist to subject the diamond model to different types of light, at different strengths and from different (single or multiple) angles, and more. This allows the diamond to be analyzed scientifically in a completely virtual realm with astonishing accuracy. The data gained from this analysis is very useful in determining the quality of the diamond’s cut, and hence, its ability to reflect light. Similar scanners to the Sarin are the Helium Scanner and the OGI Scanner. At Emma Parker & Co. we use the Sarin. Reflector DevicesA simple yet critical set of tools that is used to study and critique a diamond’s cut and light performance are the “reflector devices”; the most well known of these devices is called the Ideal Scope.The premise of these tools is quite simple; they show the light that is being reflected by the diamond in a form that is visible to the human eye. This allows a person to observe “light return” vs. “light leakage” in a diamond easily. Having read the Emma Parker & Co. Diamond Tutorial, you should have a solid grasp of the function of the Ideal scope and other devices such as the AGSL ASET reflector. If you have not yet read the Emma Parker & Co. Diamond Tutorial, please stop here and read that in its entirety before continuing on, as it will be necessary in order to understand the upcoming chapters of this tutorial.DiamCalc SoftwareThe DiamCalc Software is a wonderful program that is designed to take the diamond models that are generated by a “non-contact measuring device” and put them into a visible model that can be manipulated in a plethora of conditions, angles, lighting, and so on. It can even take the diamond models and simulate them under “reflector devices” such as the Ideal Scope, ASET, Firescope, and more. This program is able to “skin” the diamond, if you will, with a visual appearance that is very similar to the real life diamond.One of the strongest features of this program is that it allows the user to enter different parameters for the diamond. For example, if we know that a diamond with proportion set 1 looks good, but we want to see what would happen if the table was a different size, we can change the table in the program, and see the effects of this change on the diamond, both visually, and through a reflector device. This is an incredibly powerful tool for research and demonstration. GEMEX BrillianceScopeThe BrillianceScope was designed to measure the light return/optical performance of a diamond in direct light. The technology is actually a very simple and logical design. Have a look at Figure 3.1Figure 3.1

This is a basic diagram of the inner workings of the GEMEX BrillianceScope. The diamond rests on a circular piece of glass.  The cover over the diamond is then closed, creating a completely white environment surrounding the diamond. (See Figure 3.2Figure 3.2

Courtesy of GEMEXLight, generated by a fiber-optic ring light is then projected up, through an opening in the white half-sphere, through the glass, into the top of the diamond, as illustrated in Figure 3.1. The light moves to 5 specific sets of three individual points, stopping briefly at each of the 15 points. For each set of points, a camera, at the bottom of the machine, aiming up through the center of the ring light, triple exposes an image of the diamond, one picture at each point in the set, “laid” one on top of the other, as it were. Once these images are captured and stored, the software breaks down each image on a pixel by pixel basis, and looks at three distinct items.1. The amount of White Light being reflected by the stone. This will account for brightness or brilliance to the viewer’s naked eye.2. The amount of Colored Light being reflected by the stone. This will account for the fire or rainbow colored light to the viewer’s naked eye.3. The “movement” of light within the diamond, otherwise called Scintillation. This will be seen as sparkle to the viewer’s naked eye.These results are then compiled, and compared against a controlled database of diamonds that have been tested on the machine, and the results of these tests form the basis for the “grading by comparison” system used by the GEMEX software. The result is a report like the one pictured below.Figure 3.3

Courtesy of GEMEX.The results of the GEMEX report, displayed above in Figure 3.3,  are heavily curved; i.e. meaning that from the bottom of the chart to the middle of the “HIGH” grade encompasses up to the 85th percentile of all diamonds tested, while grades from the middle of the “HIGH” mark to the end of the scale at “VERY HIGH” comprise the 86th – 100th percentile of all diamonds tested. The GEMEX is an interesting tool, and is useful to a point for gaining a perception of how a diamond will perform in direct lighting conditions, such as direct sunlight, direct spotlighting, etc. The GEMEX is limited by the fact that its results only apply to direct lighting, and that its “grading by comparison” system is a totally subjective grading system which, by its nature, will always be subject to any influences that affected the block of results from the control group upon which the entire basis of the grading schematic rests. Another drawback to the GEMEX is that results can be manipulated slightly by a crafty user. Something as simple as placing a finger print smudge on the top of the diamond can cause a much higher rating on the White Light performance than the stone would have if it were totally clean. Meticulous cleaning of the diamond and the glass is absolutely necessary to ensure a proper scan. GEMEX inspects each scan before a report is issued and will reject reports that show excessive dirt or smudging, however the ease with which results can be manipulated remains a draw back in our opinion. Having an enormous amount of experience with the GEMEX BrillianceScope, both as a selling tool and as an analysis tool, I do believe that the technology is by enlarge sound, and the results valid. I have also found that consumers place far too much importance on the report, and often find themselves crippled with “analysis paralysis” and the fear that they should be waiting for a diamond that scores “the perfect 10” on the BrillianceScope, while letting world class diamonds go by on a technicality from a subjective, computerized, “grading by comparison” system. This is foolish and should be avoided. It is important to consider all aspects of a diamonds performance when purchasing a stone. To do this, one must consider a full body of analysis, of which the BrillianceScope is an informative, albeit non-essential piece. ISEE2Figure 3.4

Courtesy of ISEE2 DiamondsThe ISEE2 machine is another technology that measures a diamonds Brilliance, Fire, Scintillation, and Symmetry in a controlled light setting using mainly diffused light. The inventor of the ISEE2 states that the machine subjects diamonds to 48 different lighting conditions. The ISEE2 takes 15 images a second, and analyzes these images, breaking them down to analyze White Light, Colored Light, Light Movement (Scintillation), and Optical Symmetry (the pattern cut into the stone, in this case the machine is looking for the hearts and arrows pattern that is most commonly displayed in a properly cut 57 facet, traditional pattern round diamond). Having extensively used the ISEE2 machine for both the sale and analysis of diamonds, I can say that the results of the ISEE2 are consistent with other technologies, and are valid for consideration, provided that they are not overly weighted by a consumer in making their decision. As with the BrillianceScope, the rating system used by the software program is proprietary and unknown to anyone other than the developer. As with the BrillianceScope, this would not normally be a reason for concern, as the results have been shown to coincide with scientifically established measurements for “ideal light performance”, save for one critical piece of information; the ISEE2 machine was developed by the manufacturer of ISEE2 Diamonds specifically for the sale and marketing of their own ISEE2 Branded Diamond, which is a 57 facet Ideal Cut Hearts and Arrows Diamond. This fact does not invalidate the ISEE2 as a technology, nor yield its results as void, it merely casts a rebuttable shadow of doubt on a technology that has tested positively in private lab tests with both ISEE2 Diamonds and non-ISEE2 diamonds. The problem lies within the subjective “grading by comparison” standard that is employed by the software, which is proprietary, and therefore not discernable by consumers. So far, independent testing, including my own extensive use of the ISEE2 seems to show that the grading put forth by this technology is consistent and relatively accurate when compared to the current positions, in regards to cut, of the major gemological laboratories, such as GIA and AGS. As with the Brilliance Scope, the ISEE2 is an interesting, albeit non-essential source of information that can be considered when purchasing a diamond. The most prominent danger posed by this technology is the overemphasis that is often placed by the consumer on the importance of its results.GIA Diamond DockFigure 3.5

Courtesy of GIA  The GIA Diamond Dock is a lighting source that is used to evaluate diamonds. (Figure 3.5) This lighting environment is intended to simulate true “daylight” as closely as possible. Using a combination of diffused fluorescent lighting and L.E.D. direct lighting, it is able to simulate daylight fairly accurately. This is very useful for observation, photography, and “naked eye” light performance analysis of a diamond.The Diamond Dock also doubles as a color grading environment. TECHNOLOGIES THAT DO NOT PRETAIN TO “CUT GRADE ANALYSIS”Traditional Jeweler’s Triplet LoupeFigure 3.6

Courtesy of Kassoy.comA traditional jewelers “triplet” loupe is a simple tool that you will find in almost any good jewelry store. This is a simple, hand-held magnifying lens that allows a viewer to inspect the diamond under magnification fairly easily and in almost any location and situation. The standard magnification for these loupes is 10x, however different loupes are available for 20x and 30x as well. This particular kind of loupe is referred to as a “triplet” because the magnifier is actually made up of three different lenses in order to provide the highest clarity to the viewer. At first, using a loupe can be tricky, however with a little bit of practice, it is possible to gather a vast amount of information about a diamond simply by taking a good, long look at it through a loupe. High Power Microscope with High-Definition CameraFigure 3.7

Courtesy of Kassoy.comA good source of high magnification is critical to the proper analysis of any diamond. While observing a diamond through a 10x triplet loupe is good, having the ability to zoom in to 50x or 60x magnification allows a jeweler to learn much more about a diamond and its imperfections, as well as its cut. In addition, having the ability to share this information with a customer is vital to ensuring that the customer feels confident in the diamond they are looking to purchase. At Emma Parker & Co., we use the microscope pictured above. It is a 50x magnification microscope, with glass lenses produced by the company Leica, a leader in the optical glass industry. The microscope also has a high definition camera mounted on it, through which images of inclusions can be taken, and live video of the magnified diamond can be streamed. The pictures taken by this microscope allow customers to see, in remarkable detail, the characteristics of the diamond magnified. See examples below…Figure 3.8

The red arrows point to the “grading inclusions” in the diamond. These are the imperfections that contributed towards the diamonds clarity grade, as given by the grading laboratory, such as GIA or AGS. At Emma Parker & Co., we point out these inclusions with red arrows in a picture taken under the microscope so our customers can easily locate the incusions in their diamonds. ColorimeterFigure 3.9

Courtesy of Kassoy.comIn today’s advanced technological market, advanced and accurate tools have emerged for determining the color of a diamond. The tools, called “colorimeters” have advanced to such a point that they are quite accurate and sophisticated. These are fantastically costly machines, and are not used by everyone in the industry. Like many of our fellow colleagues, we here at Emma Parker & Co. prefer the old fashion way of color grading, the way that GIA and AGS still use to grade diamonds, a white tray, a color grading light, and set of master stones. We feel that some things are better left to the human eye and trained observation. Written by Timothy Andre, Emma Parker & Co.     www.emmaparkerdiamonds.com

Diamond Cut: The Basics – Understanding TechnologyChapter 3In order to understand the different measurements, tests, and evaluations that diamonds are put through, and what the results of these test mean to the diamonds visual performance, it is necessary to first have a solid grasp on the technologies and techniques used to gather this data. There are many different tools that are used by gemologists and diamond graders to determine facts about a diamond’s properties. This section is going focus mostly on the more complex and less understood tools, and is also going to focus mostly on tools used to determine cut and light performance. Non-Contact ScannersThe Sarin machine is the most popular device in a small group of machines called “non-contact measuring devices”. These tools are, in essence, scanners that scan the outside surface of the diamond and measure all the flat surfaces of the stone. They do this by taking many 2 dimensional images of the diamond’s silhouette, and from these images, constructing a 3 dimensional model of the diamond, complete with measurements, that is able to be manipulated by the gemologist. Basically the Sarin is able to reconstruct the diamond in a virtual world with extreme accuracy. This is extremely useful for gaining measurements on the diamond, examining the cut of the diamond, determining angles, and more. In addition, the computer software is able to simulate light sources, thereby allowing the gemologist to subject the diamond model to different types of light, at different strengths and from different (single or multiple) angles, and more. This allows the diamond to be analyzed scientifically in a completely virtual realm with astonishing accuracy. The data gained from this analysis is very useful in determining the quality of the diamond’s cut, and hence, its ability to reflect light. Similar scanners to the Sarin are the Helium Scanner and the OGI Scanner. At Emma Parker & Co. we use the Sarin. Reflector DevicesA simple yet critical set of tools that is used to study and critique a diamond’s cut and light performance are the “reflector devices”; the most well known of these devices is called the Ideal Scope.The premise of these tools is quite simple; they show the light that is being reflected by the diamond in a form that is visible to the human eye. This allows a person to observe “light return” vs. “light leakage” in a diamond easily. Having read the Emma Parker & Co. Diamond Tutorial, you should have a solid grasp of the function of the Ideal scope and other devices such as the AGSL ASET reflector. If you have not yet read the Emma Parker & Co. Diamond Tutorial, please stop here and read that in its entirety before continuing on, as it will be necessary in order to understand the upcoming chapters of this tutorial.DiamCalc SoftwareThe DiamCalc Software is a wonderful program that is designed to take the diamond models that are generated by a “non-contact measuring device” and put them into a visible model that can be manipulated in a plethora of conditions, angles, lighting, and so on. It can even take the diamond models and simulate them under “reflector devices” such as the Ideal Scope, ASET, Firescope, and more. This program is able to “skin” the diamond, if you will, with a visual appearance that is very similar to the real life diamond.One of the strongest features of this program is that it allows the user to enter different parameters for the diamond. For example, if we know that a diamond with proportion set 1 looks good, but we want to see what would happen if the table was a different size, we can change the table in the program, and see the effects of this change on the diamond, both visually, and through a reflector device. This is an incredibly powerful tool for research and demonstration. GEMEX BrillianceScopeThe BrillianceScope was designed to measure the light return/optical performance of a diamond in direct light. The technology is actually a very simple and logical design. Have a look at Figure 3.1Figure 3.1

This is a basic diagram of the inner workings of the GEMEX BrillianceScope. The diamond rests on a circular piece of glass.  The cover over the diamond is then closed, creating a completely white environment surrounding the diamond. (See Figure 3.2Figure 3.2

Courtesy of GEMEXLight, generated by a fiber-optic ring light is then projected up, through an opening in the white half-sphere, through the glass, into the top of the diamond, as illustrated in Figure 3.1. The light moves to 5 specific sets of three individual points, stopping briefly at each of the 15 points. For each set of points, a camera, at the bottom of the machine, aiming up through the center of the ring light, triple exposes an image of the diamond, one picture at each point in the set, “laid” one on top of the other, as it were. Once these images are captured and stored, the software breaks down each image on a pixel by pixel basis, and looks at three distinct items.1. The amount of White Light being reflected by the stone. This will account for brightness or brilliance to the viewer’s naked eye.2. The amount of Colored Light being reflected by the stone. This will account for the fire or rainbow colored light to the viewer’s naked eye.3. The “movement” of light within the diamond, otherwise called Scintillation. This will be seen as sparkle to the viewer’s naked eye.These results are then compiled, and compared against a controlled database of diamonds that have been tested on the machine, and the results of these tests form the basis for the “grading by comparison” system used by the GEMEX software. The result is a report like the one pictured below.Figure 3.3

Courtesy of GEMEX.The results of the GEMEX report, displayed above in Figure 3.3,  are heavily curved; i.e. meaning that from the bottom of the chart to the middle of the “HIGH” grade encompasses up to the 85th percentile of all diamonds tested, while grades from the middle of the “HIGH” mark to the end of the scale at “VERY HIGH” comprise the 86th – 100th percentile of all diamonds tested. The GEMEX is an interesting tool, and is useful to a point for gaining a perception of how a diamond will perform in direct lighting conditions, such as direct sunlight, direct spotlighting, etc. The GEMEX is limited by the fact that its results only apply to direct lighting, and that its “grading by comparison” system is a totally subjective grading system which, by its nature, will always be subject to any influences that affected the block of results from the control group upon which the entire basis of the grading schematic rests. Another drawback to the GEMEX is that results can be manipulated slightly by a crafty user. Something as simple as placing a finger print smudge on the top of the diamond can cause a much higher rating on the White Light performance than the stone would have if it were totally clean. Meticulous cleaning of the diamond and the glass is absolutely necessary to ensure a proper scan. GEMEX inspects each scan before a report is issued and will reject reports that show excessive dirt or smudging, however the ease with which results can be manipulated remains a draw back in our opinion. Having an enormous amount of experience with the GEMEX BrillianceScope, both as a selling tool and as an analysis tool, I do believe that the technology is by enlarge sound, and the results valid. I have also found that consumers place far too much importance on the report, and often find themselves crippled with “analysis paralysis” and the fear that they should be waiting for a diamond that scores “the perfect 10” on the BrillianceScope, while letting world class diamonds go by on a technicality from a subjective, computerized, “grading by comparison” system. This is foolish and should be avoided. It is important to consider all aspects of a diamonds performance when purchasing a stone. To do this, one must consider a full body of analysis, of which the BrillianceScope is an informative, albeit non-essential piece. ISEE2Figure 3.4

Courtesy of ISEE2 DiamondsThe ISEE2 machine is another technology that measures a diamonds Brilliance, Fire, Scintillation, and Symmetry in a controlled light setting using mainly diffused light. The inventor of the ISEE2 states that the machine subjects diamonds to 48 different lighting conditions. The ISEE2 takes 15 images a second, and analyzes these images, breaking them down to analyze White Light, Colored Light, Light Movement (Scintillation), and Optical Symmetry (the pattern cut into the stone, in this case the machine is looking for the hearts and arrows pattern that is most commonly displayed in a properly cut 57 facet, traditional pattern round diamond). Having extensively used the ISEE2 machine for both the sale and analysis of diamonds, I can say that the results of the ISEE2 are consistent with other technologies, and are valid for consideration, provided that they are not overly weighted by a consumer in making their decision. As with the BrillianceScope, the rating system used by the software program is proprietary and unknown to anyone other than the developer. As with the BrillianceScope, this would not normally be a reason for concern, as the results have been shown to coincide with scientifically established measurements for “ideal light performance”, save for one critical piece of information; the ISEE2 machine was developed by the manufacturer of ISEE2 Diamonds specifically for the sale and marketing of their own ISEE2 Branded Diamond, which is a 57 facet Ideal Cut Hearts and Arrows Diamond. This fact does not invalidate the ISEE2 as a technology, nor yield its results as void, it merely casts a rebuttable shadow of doubt on a technology that has tested positively in private lab tests with both ISEE2 Diamonds and non-ISEE2 diamonds. The problem lies within the subjective “grading by comparison” standard that is employed by the software, which is proprietary, and therefore not discernable by consumers. So far, independent testing, including my own extensive use of the ISEE2 seems to show that the grading put forth by this technology is consistent and relatively accurate when compared to the current positions, in regards to cut, of the major gemological laboratories, such as GIA and AGS. As with the Brilliance Scope, the ISEE2 is an interesting, albeit non-essential source of information that can be considered when purchasing a diamond. The most prominent danger posed by this technology is the overemphasis that is often placed by the consumer on the importance of its results.GIA Diamond DockFigure 3.5

Courtesy of GIA  The GIA Diamond Dock is a lighting source that is used to evaluate diamonds. (Figure 3.5) This lighting environment is intended to simulate true “daylight” as closely as possible. Using a combination of diffused fluorescent lighting and L.E.D. direct lighting, it is able to simulate daylight fairly accurately. This is very useful for observation, photography, and “naked eye” light performance analysis of a diamond.The Diamond Dock also doubles as a color grading environment. TECHNOLOGIES THAT DO NOT PRETAIN TO “CUT GRADE ANALYSIS”Traditional Jeweler’s Triplet LoupeFigure 3.6

Courtesy of Kassoy.comA traditional jewelers “triplet” loupe is a simple tool that you will find in almost any good jewelry store. This is a simple, hand-held magnifying lens that allows a viewer to inspect the diamond under magnification fairly easily and in almost any location and situation. The standard magnification for these loupes is 10x, however different loupes are available for 20x and 30x as well. This particular kind of loupe is referred to as a “triplet” because the magnifier is actually made up of three different lenses in order to provide the highest clarity to the viewer. At first, using a loupe can be tricky, however with a little bit of practice, it is possible to gather a vast amount of information about a diamond simply by taking a good, long look at it through a loupe. High Power Microscope with High-Definition CameraFigure 3.7

Courtesy of Kassoy.comA good source of high magnification is critical to the proper analysis of any diamond. While observing a diamond through a 10x triplet loupe is good, having the ability to zoom in to 50x or 60x magnification allows a jeweler to learn much more about a diamond and its imperfections, as well as its cut. In addition, having the ability to share this information with a customer is vital to ensuring that the customer feels confident in the diamond they are looking to purchase. At Emma Parker & Co., we use the microscope pictured above. It is a 50x magnification microscope, with glass lenses produced by the company Leica, a leader in the optical glass industry. The microscope also has a high definition camera mounted on it, through which images of inclusions can be taken, and live video of the magnified diamond can be streamed. The pictures taken by this microscope allow customers to see, in remarkable detail, the characteristics of the diamond magnified. See examples below…Figure 3.8

The red arrows point to the “grading inclusions” in the diamond. These are the imperfections that contributed towards the diamonds clarity grade, as given by the grading laboratory, such as GIA or AGS. At Emma Parker & Co., we point out these inclusions with red arrows in a picture taken under the microscope so our customers can easily locate the incusions in their diamonds. ColorimeterFigure 3.9

Courtesy of Kassoy.comIn today’s advanced technological market, advanced and accurate tools have emerged for determining the color of a diamond. The tools, called “colorimeters” have advanced to such a point that they are quite accurate and sophisticated. These are fantastically costly machines, and are not used by everyone in the industry. Like many of our fellow colleagues, we here at Emma Parker & Co. prefer the old fashion way of color grading, the way that GIA and AGS still use to grade diamonds, a white tray, a color grading light, and set of master stones. We feel that some things are better left to the human eye and trained observation. Written by Timothy Andre, Emma Parker & Co.     www.emmaparkerdiamonds.com

Diamond Cut: The Basics – Cut, Part 1 – Facet StructureChapter 4Having a well-grounded understanding of a diamond’s facet structure is critical to gaining a full understanding of cut. In this chapter, we are going to breakdown the facet structure of a round diamond and discuss the basic purposes of the facets of the diamond. In the following chapters, we will be taking each shape, with its unique facet structure and discussing it, its cut, what measurements, angle combinations, and facet lengths bring out the stone’s beauty. THE CROWNThe Table FacetFigure 4.1

The table facet is the largest facet on the diamond. It is common to all main-stream shapes (Round, Square, Cushion, Pear, Marquise, etc.), and cut patterns produced in the market. The major function of the table facet is to allow light to enter the diamond through the top. Since a diamond’s sparkle is actually light that is being reflected up out of the diamond, it is critical that large amounts of light be able to ender directly into the diamond. In order to allow a maximum amount of light to enter the stone directly, a large, flat facet on the top of the diamond is essential.The “perfect” table size has been a topic of fierce discussion and debate between experts over the years, with each side being deeply entrenched in their own opinions. As with many areas of diamond cut, many of the experts’ positions overlap, showing that there is a certain amount of veracity and consistence to each of their arguments. Rather than to take a stance with any one school of thought, we prefer to look at the intersection of the major, scientifically supported theories. There is no “one size fits all” when it comes to table measurements. Each one is unique in the way that it interacts with the other measurements around it, and certainly, from shape to shape, proper table measurements take on totally new ranges and rules. We will be looking closely at optimal ranges for table measurements a little later on when we break down our discussion of cut for each different major diamond shape on the market. Something that is very important to remember, not just with the table facet but with all facets on a diamond, is that they live in a 3 dimensional world and can move in multiple directions. Most often, when a facet’s measurement is discussed, we talk about its diameter, depth, length, or angle. However, a facet can “move” in other ways that need to be considered. For example, is the table off-center? Is the table tilted, in relation to the girdle of the stone? Is the table warped, or skewed? Is the shape of the table symmetrical? Is the facet pattern of the stone symmetrical? Are the facets on the pavilion and crown lined up with each other? Is the culet off-center? Is a facet shifted, twisted, rotated, beveled, curved, etc. While this is a topic that we will not be touching on again until later, it seemed fitting to mention it here in order to set the tone for discussions to come. The Star FacetsThe star facets are small, triangular facets that surround the table, in stones that exhibit the “brilliant cut” pattern, such as rounds, ovals, pears, hearts, marquise, princess, radiant, etc; as opposed to a step cut pattern, such as an emerald or asscher; or even a proprietary cut, such as a Lucida, Criss-cut, etc (we will address their facet structures later on). See figure 4.2.Figure 4.2

The stars are the first of three sets of facets that make up the angled portion of the diamond’s crown. Light that enters these facets will be bent as it passes through them, in contrast to light that enters through the table. See figure 4.3 and 4.4. (These illustrations are of a diamond cut to AGS Ideal proportions, using a single “ray-trace light source” in the model to illustrate the path that light takes through the stone.Figure 4.3

Figure 4.4

The facets that make up the crown of the diamond are very important, because they will bend light passing through the diamond in two way, when it enters the stone, and when it exits the stone. If these facets are cut to angles that are inconsistent or improper, it will have significant effects on the sparkle and brilliance of the diamond. The most common measurement used to express the dimensions of a star facet is that of length, which is expressed in the percentage of the distance which the facet covers between the edge of the table and the edge of the girdle (this was already discussed in the first chapter of this tutorial). Again, there are many schools of thought as to what is the optimal measurement. Rather than proclaim the perfect measurement, it is more informative to look at how different star facet lengths affect the diamond, and how their measurements, when combined with various measurements from the pavilion of the diamond, will yield different optical results, within in which it is possible to find differing appearances which may appeal more to one person than another. The result of such truths is that no one measurement is “the best”, but rather a range of measurements and combinations should be considered. We will breakdown the different measurements and combinations for each shape later on in this tutorial.The Bezel FacetsThe bezel facets are the major facets in the crown of a diamond with the “brilliant cut pattern”. It is the angle of these facets that is depicted as the “crown angle” on the lab reports. These are the largest facets in the crown, and have the greatest impact on the light performance of the stone. The bezel facets of a diamond are illustrated in Figure 4.5, shown below.Figure 4.5

The important statistic to consider about bezel facets is their angle. Since they are the major facets of the crown, they impact the bending of light more than the other two facet groups on the crown. The key to finding a diamond with a good or great cut is not in the in angle measurement of the bezel facets alone, but rather in the combination created by the angle of the bezel facets and the pavilion main facets (pavilion main facets will be discussed later in this chapter). It is this combination that will produce the bending and reflecting of light. If only one set of these facets fall into the proper range, the variance in the non-conforming set of facets will offset the other. Focusing on good combinations and how this will affect the diamond’s ability to reflect light is key if you want to find a diamond that is going to have the “wow” factor. The Upper Girdle FacetsThe upper girdle facets are those facets that have one edge touching the girdle. In stones with a “brilliant cut pattern” especially rounds, these small facets can play a very big roll. See Figure 4.6.Figure 4.6

There are two issues that can happen with these facets that can affect the appearance and beauty of a diamond. They will both be covered under the section discussing the cut of a round diamond. So you know to look out for these topics, they are called Painting and Digging. As with any other portion of diamond cut, these points are hot points of controversy and argument. We will thoroughly discuss these issues a little later. THE PAVILIONThe Pavilion-Main FacetsThe pavilion-main facets, sometimes called “the mains”, are the major facets that extend from the culet of the diamond to the edge of the girdle. These facets are responsible for the majority of the light reflection from the pavilion of the diamond. It is the angles of these facets that will determine where the light that enters the diamond will be reflected. Figure 4.7

The measurement used to define this facet set is an angle measurement. You can see this measurement represented on a lab grading report as the “pavilion angle”. This measurement is a very important one, and, particularly in rounds, a very small change in the angle can result in huge impacts to the visual beauty and sparkle of the diamond. Again…as with the crown angle…there is no one measurement that is the “best”. It is all about the combination of the crown and pavilion angles, working together to produce beautiful optics. Of course, there are limits, and angle measurements within certain ranges that tend to produce the nicest diamonds. As we move through the coming chapters on cut, we will examine different shapes, and how changing the angles of the pavilion-main facets can affect the performance and beauty of a diamond.The Lower Girdle FacetsThe lower girdle facets, as their name would suggest, and just like the upper girdle facets, are the facets that extend from the edge of the girdle, down towards the pavilion. They are found in between the pavilion main facets and are grouped two together. Figure 4.8

The primary measurement used to describe the lower girdle facets is that of length, expressed in a percentage…which is the percentage of the distance the facets cover between the edge of the girdle and the culet. Their length is significant, as it can affect the visual beauty and appearance of a diamond, although their effect is not as great as the “pavilion mains”. Also…like their opposites (the upper girdle facets), lower girdle facets can also suffer the affects of Painting and Digging…which we will discuss later. The CuletThe culet is the point at the bottom of the pavilion. The purpose of the culet is really to keep the diamond from being damaged on the bottom. Today, it is most common to see culets that are referred to a “None” or “Pointed”, since most diamond are brought to a sharp point at the bottom. This was not always the case however. Particularly in more antique cuts, it is quite common to see culets that are flattened, creating another facet on the bottom of the diamond.The issue caused by having a large girdle is that it creates a facet that is parallel to the table. This opens an exit point for light to pass through at the bottom of the diamond, which allows light to pass directly through the diamond, without being reflected back to the viewer, i.e. “light leakage”.  Although the look of a large culet can be very enticing, especially in an antique stone, it is important to understand that it will allow a fair amount of light to be lost through the bottom of the stone, and will affect the overall light return of the diamond.It is important to remember, once again, that diamonds are personal, and that something that one customer may consider undesirable, could be sought after and prized by another. The GirdleThe girdle is the thin “band” around the widest part of the stone. The girdle is very important to the cut of a diamond, but not so much in the way of light performance. Rather, the girdle has to do with the structural soundness of the diamond. After all…the diamond will be held in the setting by the girdle, and, while being worn on the finger by its owner…there is a greater chance that the wearer will bang or knock the stone on its girdle than any other part of the diamond.The girdle measurement, on a lab grading report, is expressed in either millimeters, or as a percentage of the stone’s total depth. It is important to have a girdle that is the right thickness. The girdle should be thick enough to be secure for setting, and secure against chipping or cracking, however if the girdle is too thick, this will hide “extra weight” in the stone. “Extra weight” is carat weight that you pay for in the price, but don’t see in the actual millimeter diameter of the diamond. There are many places that diamond cutters can hide weight in a stone…the girdle is just one. We will discuss them more in detail later on in this tutorial.Now that we have taken the time to breakdown the different facets a diamond…we are going to focus on breaking down our next look into the world of cut by considering one shape and cut pattern at a time.  We will continue this discussion in Chapter 5.

Written by Timothy Andre, Emma Parker & Co.     www.emmaparkerdiamonds.com

What is the diamond shape

Many buyers often confuse between the diamond cut and shape of a diamond. The cut of a diamond refers to the number of facets and angles of a diamond. The shape of a diamond however refers to the geometrical form of a diamond, after it has been cut and polished. Here is a list of the popular shapes available in the market and how buyers can choose from them.

Round diamonds

These are by far the most popular and expensive, and not without reason. Round brilliant have the maximum fire and brilliance. They also give flexibility for balancing the grades of color, cut and clarity. Finally, these can be put into diverse settings quite easily. These diamonds have fifty eight facets (including the culet). Highest brilliance can be obtained by choosing round diamonds of ideal or very good grades of cut. The ideal proportions are achieved in round brilliants only, by maintaining proportions.

Round Brilliant Diamond

Emerald shaped diamonds

As the name implies, this shape was more popular for emeralds before it was used on diamonds. Thus stones here are basically rectangular in shape while the pavilion is cut with rectangular facets. Corners are cropped for added effect. Step cuts that resemble stairs, in the stone give it a special optical appearance of flashes of light. The large and open table of the emerald shape especially highlights the clarity of the stone. While opting for an emerald shaped diamond it is therefore important to choose a stone with high clarity and few inclusions. Location of the inclusions on the stone are also of importance and buyers must take care that the inclusions are not present near the table where they are easily visible. Price wise this shape is more economical as compared to the expensive round or princess diamonds.

Emerald Shape Diamond

Princess shaped diamonds

Besides the round diamonds, the princess shape is the next more popular and preferred shape, especially for engagement rings. The shape is highly popular for its property to bring out the best brilliance in a square cut diamond. This is a typically square or rectangular shaped diamond that comes with pointed corners and many sparkling facets. This cut is relatively new as compared to other shapes and looks quite flattering on long and slender fingers. While buying a princess shaped diamond, it is important to consider the length to width ratio of the stone. While a length to width ratio between 1 to 1.05 is suitable for square shaped princess diamonds, buyers may prefer a length to width ratio greater that 1.10 if looking for more rectangular princess diamonds. Also this cut requires more depth as compared to other cuts and thus a depth percentage of 70% or more is taken.

Princess Shape Diamond

Oval shaped diamonds

Oval shaped diamonds are quite popular in the market too and are well known for their flattering effect of length on short fingers. This shape is noted to have been created and introduced by Lazare Kaplan way back in the 1960s. Usually noted to have 56 facets, the weight of such diamonds is estimated by measuring the length and width of the stone. A ratio of 1.33 to 1.66 provides a good traditional range of oval shaped diamonds. While choosing an oval diamond ensure that it has ‘shape appeal’. Watch out for uneven shoulders or high shoulders or a bow-tie effect that can be visible to the naked eye. Also choose a good setting either in the east-west or north-south direction so that the diamond has high appeal.

Oval Shape Diamond

Marquise diamonds

This is an elongated diamond with both ends pointed. These diamonds are known to have taken their name from the famous smile of Marquise de Pompadour. It is renowned for its property to give a bigger looking diamond. Diamonds with this shape usually have 56 facets. The ideal length to width ratios while opting for marquise diamonds fall within 1.75 and 2.25. Buyers must look out for shape appeal and for a bow tie effect that is often visible in poorly shaped Marquise diamonds.

Marquise Shape Diamond

Pear shaped diamonds

This is also known as the teardrop shape owing to its resemblance and is considered as a hybrid between the marquise cut and the round brilliant diamond. The stone has one end rounded while the other end is pointed. Buyers can opt between varying length and width ratios for the ideal looking pear shaped diamond. Length to width ratios between 1.45 and 1.75 are suitable. Buyers should be careful while choosing stones and must look out for a bow-tie effect visible to the naked eye.

Pear Shaped Diamond

Cushion shaped diamonds

The cushion shaped diamonds are also known as pillow cut or candlelight diamonds, owing to the number of years for which this shape has had popularity. Those were ancient times, when stones were viewed in candlelight rather than artificial light. They have round corners and larger sized facets that enhance the brilliance of the stone. While this shape is not as fiery and brilliant as princess shaped diamonds, it lends a certain elegance to diamonds and is thus adopted by many. The cushion shape more or less resembles a hybrid between the old mine cut and the modern oval shape. As in other square stones, one can opt for cushion shaped diamonds that are square or rectangular. Finally, opt for cushion shape only if you plan to invest in diamonds over one carat.

Cushion Shape Diamond

Radiant diamonds

Radiant diamonds come with trimmed corners that gives this diamond its special shape. The shape can be both rectangular and square and buyers should consider the length to width ratio of the stone while opting. Usually the shape has seventy facets and more weight is directed into the depth of the stone for giving a high brilliance. A ratio of 1 to 1.05 gives a more square looking shape while a ratio over 1.10 gives a more rectangular looking diamond.

Radiant Brilliant

Heart diamonds

Heart diamonds are a symbol of love and are opted for by many. The diamond is typically a pear shaped diamond with the rounded end comprising of a cleft. Much skill goes into giving the perfect heart shaped diamond to dance with brilliance. It is thus advisable that before buying heart shaped diamonds, maximum attention be given to the cut and the highest grade of diamond cut be selected for purchase. Length to width ratios between 0.90 and 1.10 are advisable, but do be sure about the kind of heart shape you require, elongated and slim or short and broad.

Heart Shape

Asscher shape

The asscher shape resemble emerald cut diamonds with the exception that the diamond is square instead of rectangular. As compared to an emerald shape, this shape usually has a higher brilliance, smaller table and a deeper pavilion. Also the stone has bigger step facets. The shape highlights the clarity of the diamond and it is important to take a diamond with minimal inclusions, especially at the table, while opting for this shape. While you can opt for any carat weight in the asscher shape, you will get an amazing range even under one carat size. Look for shape appeal before purchasing the stone without using a loupe.

Asscher Cut

Trilliant shape

This special shape first designed in Amsterdam, gives a diamond the look of brilliant dancing fire. The stone basically has a triangular shape with pointed or rounded edges. There are usually twenty five facets on the crown and nineteen facets on the pavilion. The girdle is polished.

Trilliant Shape Diamond

What buyers must look for

Keeping the following aspects in mind will assist diamond buyers greatly while choosing a good diamond.

Usage: While all diamonds look beautiful, the right selection of shape can prove extremely beautiful. Thus while a woman with a small hand may prefer a princess shaped diamond or a round one, long fingers are better accentuated by a marquise shape or oval shaped diamond. Finally an elongated pear shaped diamond can make fingers appear slimmer and slender.

Appeal: Shape appeal is another important factor that buyers must consider. Look for a stone that appeals well to the unaided eye. This can be checked through considering the girdle of the stone. Also look for the bow tie effect that can be quite prominent in certain stones.

Size of diamond: While the carat weight determines the size of a diamond, a difference in shape can also make the size of the diamond look different. Thus a one carat emerald shaped diamond with less depth and more surface area can appear bigger as compared to a two carat round brilliant stone. The marquise shape is another option that can make a low carat diamond appear much bigger.

Clarity: Certain shapes like the Asscher and emerald shapes tend to highlight the clarity of the diamond. Thus if buyers are opting for stones of grade SI, it is important to check where the inclusions are present.

Setting of the stone: Finally the right setting of the diamond can accentuate its shape and appearance on wearing. Small round diamonds on either side of a marquise finger ring, can make fingers appear longer. Also in princess and emerald shaped diamonds, buyers must check that the setting protects the four corners, which can otherwise chip easily. Four pronged settings are thus advisable for such shapes.

Besides the above, diamonds take on various other shapes that are a hybrid of the above. Most of these shapes take form owing to the creativity of the cutter and the original shape of the diamond from which the shape is inspired, for retaining maximum carat weight and brilliance. While the shape you buy is finally your individual preference, opt for the right diamond with great care.

Without a doubt, diamonds are among the most exquisite stones in existence. This is mainly due to the colorless appearance, which is a combination of the diamond characteristics: cut, clarity, color, and carat. For years these core characteristics have help describe the beauty of a diamond.

The cut of a diamond is always the first to be considered—as it is considered as the most important of the characteristics. This is because the cut usually determines the value. For instance, a big or heavy diamond isn’t always valuable if the cut is poor. Although many refer to the shape of the stone as its cut, this term actually refers to the reflective qualities of a diamond. In layman’s terms, the cut determines the diamond’s ability to handle the light passing through the stone. The light that passes through the diamond should reflect back to the eye; with poorly cut diamonds, the light leaks out.

Meanwhile, the clarity of the diamond allows one to see the flaws of the stone. Clarity is rated from F (flawless) to I1 to I3 (the lowest of the grades). Experts do not suggest buyers get diamond with the last three ratings, as diamonds with these ratings have visible internal flaws (meaning the diamond is obviously of poor quality). Needless to say, buyers should opt for colorless diamonds, since this also means it is clear. The highest grade of diamonds is colorless. Next to colorless on the color scale is near colorless, faint fellow, and very light yellow. Diamonds with a light yellow color are of low quality.

The final characteristic is the carat, or the weight of the stone. A carat is 200 milligrams, although bigger doesn’t always mean more valuable. Good diamonds should always strike a balance between all four characteristics.

Asscher Cut Diamonds are nearly identical to emerald cut diamonds and they are often reffered to as a square emerald cut. Joseph Asscher an eminent diamond cutter, who cut the 3,106 carat Cullinan diamond, developed and patented the Asscher cut diamond in 1902. The Asscher cut is a squarish step cut with an almost octagonal outline. Asscher cut diamonds have a distinctive windmill reflection and wide cut corners that are characterized by concentric square patterns.The Asscher cut diamond has a small table, a high crown, wide step facets, a deep pavilion and square culet.

An Asscher cut diamond is cut with a series of many parallel steps, creating a hall-of-mirrors effect when looking deeply into the stone. These steps create more internal refraction and diamond fire than typical step cut stones, such as the elongated Emerald cut. Because of its high crown and small table, the Asscher cut diamond has more light and fire than an Emerald cut diamond.

The Asscher cut diamond became very popular in Art Deco jewellery and was a forerunner of the emerald cut. Since an Asscher cut diamond produces more fire than you see in a typical step cut diamond it has become extremely popular especially with many Hollywood stars and celebrities. If you choose a SI-clarity graded Asscher cut diamond be sure to view the clarity plot on the diamond certificate, because this shape can highlight the clarity of the diamond. When choosing an Asscher cut diamond consider the colour grade, for colours below J-colour, in various fancy-shaped diamonds the colour may be slightly visible in its corners.

The optimum shape for an Asscher cut diamond has a Length to Width ratio of 1:1, acceptable length to width ratios can be 1.00 – 1.40 : 1 depending on the shape of the Asscher cut you desire, noting that the greater length to width ratio the more rectangular the Asscher cut diamond will become.

You may copy this article and place it on your own website, as long as you do not change it and include this resource box including the live linksCopyright © 2008 Diamond Imports Pty Ltd

http://www.diamondimports.com.au

The Radiant cut diamond was created by Henry Grossbard in 1977. The radiant cut diamond combines the elegant shape of the emerald cut, with the brilliance of a round brilliant cut diamond. Radiant cut diamonds come in a wonderful squarish or rectangular cut shape. While not as popular as the other fancy cut diamonds, Radiant cut diamonds are adored by many diamond connoisseurs.

Radiant Cut Diamond is considered the father of ‘branded’ fancy cut diamonds with a birth over 20 years ago. The Radiant Cut Diamond is the first rectangular cut to have a complete brilliant facet pattern applied to both the crown and pavilion.

Radiant cut diamonds have an eye-catching “kaleidoscope” effect that have more “points of light” reflected within the diamond than any other cut.The Radiant Cut diamond: is a straight-edged rectangular or square stone with cut corners. The Radiant cut is a patented cut with 70 facets and is often confused with a “cut corners Princess / Quadrillions”. The cut corners are distinguishing of this fancy shaped diamond, and they aid in the brilliance of the diamond. Radiant cut diamonds are used mainly as centre stones for rings and pendants and look beautiful when set with baguette or trilliant cut shoulder stones.When choosing a Radiant cut diamond consider the colour grade, colour grades below J can cause the colour to appear slightly more visible in the corners. Radiant cut diamonds are cut to either a square or rectangular shape and it is a matter of personal preference.For a Radiant cut diamond that is square in shape a length to width ratio of 1:1.10 is typical, if you are looking for a Radiant cut diamond that is more rectangular then a length to width ratio of 1.20 – 1.50 is best. Due to its large facet, it is important to consider a stone that has a great color and clarity rating. Like other similar cuts, the Radiant cut diamond will show inclusions and imperfections very easily so make sure the stone is of the right quality before purchasing.

Radiant cut diamonds are great for engagement rings and wedding rings, as well as other high quality jewelry. If you are interested in squarish or rectangular diamond cuts, you might also want to consider the Cushion cut diamond, Emerald cut diamond or the Asscher cut diamond.

You may copy this article and place it on your own website, as long as you do not change it and include this resource box including the live linksCopyright © 2008 Diamond Imports Pty Ltdhttp://www.diamondimports.com.au

Rough diamonds can be cut by experts to virtually any shape and size

Some of the most popular shapes are round, oval, princess, emerald, marquise, pear, heart, triangle and radiant. The cut of a polished diamond is the only human contribution to its beauty, fire and brilliance.

Because of its extraordinary ability to reflect light, the round brilliant diamond is the most popular shape today.

Cut determines amount of reflected light that exits through the top of a diamond. The better the cut, the more light exits through the top, the more brilliant and beautiful the diamond.

Is cut important? Many gemologists consider cut to be the most important diamond characteristic:

So, why don’t we hear more about cut? Diamond sellers prefer to talk about carat weight, color and clarity. That’s because those measures are relatively simple to explain:

Even the most reputable gemological laboratories try to avoid grading cut. In fact, only the AGS (American Gemological Society) has an established system for grading cut. Hopefully, the GIA, EGL, UGL will follow their lead.

How is cut graded? First, let’s look at the parts of a diamond that are considered when evaluating cut:

Diameterthe width of the diamond as measured through the girdleTablethe largest facet of a diamondCrownthe top portion of the diamond; the crown extends from the girdle to the tableGirdlethe narrow band around the widest part of the diamond; the girdle separates the crown from the pavilionPavilionthe bottom portion of the diamond; the pavilion extends from the girdle to the culetCuletthe facet at the tip of the diamond; diamonds of excellent cut have culets that are invisible to the naked eyeDepththe height of the diamond; depth is measured from the table to the culetTo determine the diamond’s cut grade:

The symmetry of the diamond is evaluated The final cut grade of the diamond is determined by its weakest component. For example, an ‘extremely thin’ girdle will result in a poor cut grade, even if every other measurement is ideal.

Remember: Only about 3% of polished diamonds are ideal cuts. They are exquisite and rare gems that reflect back 96% or more of the light that enters through the table.

No other diamond characteristic has so much impact on price!

To see a different types of diamond cuts please visit http://www.diamondswest.com

Diamond is one of the most valuable jewellery in the world. People would like to own it because they like diamond’s attributes and its unique. When you are thinking to buy a diamond, there are 4 factors that you need to consider thoroughly when you buy diamond. These are Clarity, Cut, Colour and Carat Weight. However, recently technology 

First of all, the cut, it means a shape of diamond which was cut in different ways depend on diamond condition.  A good cut diamond will exhibit the better light reflection.

The second factor is the clarity. The clarity is a term that is used for illustrating purity of diamond. This is related with scratch, defect and flaw. The more purity diamond has the more it will be priced.

In addition to the diamond cut and clarity, the weight (Carat) is another significant factor that diamond buyer need to concern. Carat is used as the trading unit that 1 Carat is equal 0.200 grams. Carat has an abrasive form as ct and refers to a single diamond. For more than one diamond, the total weight will be called total Carat of ct TW.

The last factor that diamond ring buyers need to take into account is the colour. Diamond is not perfect colourless jewellery. It, however, is the colourless stone which has various colours from white to brown.

Buying diamond or diamond ring requires the clearly understanding in all 4 factors which will effect to its price. However, to help buyer select a diamond easier, the Gemological Institute Of America has set the standard for all of those factor.

For more information about diamond ring : http://buying-diamond-ring.blogspot.com/