My Pink Diamonds

Diamond Cut…The Basics: Step 1 – Understanding diamond “certs”Chapter 2If you are going to purchase a diamond, and know what you are getting when you purchase it, you need to be able to understand the information that is presented on a “lab grading report”, and how the information was obtained. Having this knowledge will further assist you to know if any follow up/independent data, presented to you by the jeweler, in conjunction with a “lab grading report”, is valid and accurate. Here are several examples of “lab grading reports”. To gain a better understanding of how information is broken down on a lab report, we will examine one line by line. NOTE: We will not be discussing the relevance of this information to the diamond’s cut quality, as that will be done in detail later on in this tutorial. GIA Lab Grading ReportFigure 2.1

EGL USA Lab Grading ReportFigure 2.2

For the purposes of this tutorial, we will examine the AGS Lab Grading Report. Most reports have similar information on them and are simply arranged differently. Immediately below is the full copy of the “lab grading report”. Since the lettering on this report is quite small, we have included enlarged portions of the report below that will allow us to examine the information contained in this report more closely.AGS Lab Grading ReportFigure 2.3

Figure 2.4

Figure 2.5

Figure 2.6

If we examine Figure 2.4, we see that this area of the report displays the basic information about the diamond. Let’s break this down point by point•    Shape and Style

•    Measurements

•    Cut Grade

•    Color Grade

•    Clarity Grade

•    Carat Weight

NOTE: A very important fact to understand about Color and Clarity is that the grading standards vary widely from on grading laboratory to another. Some of have much stricter standards than others, and this is something that should be carefully considered before purchasing a diamond. Looking at Figure 2.5, we can see a proportion map of the diamond, with basic proportion and measurement data. The first thing that we notice when looking at this, is that the only two standards of measurements used are Percentages and Degrees. The very first measurement of the diamond is the 100%, which is equal to the average diameter of the stone at its widest point, the girdle. It is based off of this percentage that all of the other percentage measurements are calculated.Directly under this measurement, we can see the 55.4% measurement. This is the diameter of the Table Facet, expressed in a percentage of the total average diameter. The vertical line along the left had diamond is the measurement of the Total Depth of the diamond, again, expressed as a percentage of the total average diameter, in this case, 61.9%The vertical line along the right side of the diamond, broken into three different measurements essentially breaks down the factors that make up the total depth of the diamond. These three factors are called Crown Height, Girdle Thickness, and Pavilion Depth.  In this case you can see the three measurements are as follows.•    Crown Height – 15.5%•    Girdle Thickness – 1.6% to 4.4%•    Pavilion Depth – 42.8%The two angle measurements on the left hand side of the graph are the Crown Angle and Pavilion Angle measurements. In this case, the Crown Angle is 34.8 degrees, and the Pavilion angle is 40.6 degrees.The two numbers in the diamond represent facet length measurements.  The measurement in the small facets on top is the Star Facet Length, and the measurement in the slightly larger facets on the bottom is the Lower Girdle Facet Length. For this diamond, the Star Facets measure 51% and the Lower Girdle Facet’s measure 75%. It is very important to understand that these two percentages are not calculated against the total depth. Rather Star Facet Lengths are expressed as a percentage of the total distance between the edge of the Table and the edge of the Girdle. Lower Girdle Facet Lengths are expressed in a percentage of the total distance between the Culet and the edge of the Girdle. (See illustration below)Star Fact MeasurementThe Green arrow, in Figure 2.7, represents 100% of the distance from the edge of the TABLE to the edge of the GIRDLE. The STAR FACET measurement is expressed as a percentage of the total measurement.Figure 2.7

Lower Girdle Facet MeasurementThe green arrow in Figure 2.8 represents 100% of the distance between the edge of the GIRDLE and the CULET. The LOWER GIRDLE FACET measurement is expressed as a percentage of the total measurement. Figure 2.8

Lastly at the bottom, we see the Culet Size. This is almost always expressed as a word. Culet sizes vary including sizes of None, Pointed, Very Small, Small, Medium, etc.The last graphic we see, Figure 2.6, is the Clarity Plot of the diamond. This is where the grading inclusions, that were visible at 10x magnification, are plotted by the grader. Clarity has already been discussed in brief in the Emma Parker & Co. Diamond Tutorial, however there are some simple hints to help you spot important information on the Clarity Plot. All inclusions plotted in RED INK are INTERNAL inclusions. All inclusions plotted in GREEN INK are EXTERNAL inclusions. This basic walk through of the information that is listed on a lab grading report will give you a good foundation in what information you will be presented with later on in this tutorial, and what each measurement relates to. In the following chapters we are going to dig deeper into cut, what to look for in a great cut, what tools and reports are useful in looking for a good cut and how to read them, and more. Written by Timothy Andre, Emma Parker & Co.     www.emmaparkerdiamonds.com

Diamonds are extremely hard and durable. Take care of your diamond by avoiding breaks and scratches and keep it clean. With good care, your diamond will have the same sparkle and beauty in ten, a hundred or a thousand years. Diamonds do not fade, tarnish or wear out like most materials. The secret to keeping a diamond’s sparkle is keeping it clean.

Diamonds are the hardest natural material. Only a diamond can scratch a diamond. Use great caution when wearing multiple diamond rings on the same finger. If the diamonds of one ring touch diamonds in another ring, both diamonds will likely end up scratched in a relatively short time. If you have a diamond wedding band next to your diamond engagement ring, be sure their design allows them to fit together so the diamonds do not touch.

The next most dangerous place for diamonds scratching each other is in the jewelry box. Do not throw your diamond rings, diamond earrings, and diamond bracelet together. Since diamonds will scratch diamonds, think of what they can do to other gemstones and precious metals. Keep your diamond jewelry in separate compartments or isolated by soft cloth to keep them from rubbing each other.

While diamonds are very durable, they can break or chip. You would not let someone hit your diamond with a steel hammer but your diamond ring faces the same type of danger every day. File cabinets, metal seat belt buckles, and car doors are just a few of the metal surfaces that can hit a diamond in the course of a normal day. Avoid sharp impacts with hard surfaces and you will avoid chips and cracks in your diamond.

Diamonds are natural grease attractors. Some diamond mines separate diamonds from the broken rocks by running the material over a conveyor belt covered with a layer of grease. Diamonds stick to the grease and the rocks slide off. At the end of the shift, they remove the grease and melt it away, leaving the diamonds.

Remember diamond’s attraction to grease when you touch a diamond with your finger. The oil from your fingertips will coat the diamond and reduce the sparkle. The same is true when your diamond ring touches the oil in your hair. Hand creams, lotions, hair spray, soap, and grease from food will create a film on your diamond that hides its beauty. When you put your hands in dishwater, the dirt and grease in the water will adhere to the diamond. Dust and powders also cling to diamonds.

Fortunately, diamonds are easy to clean. Put your diamond jewelry in a warm solution of mild liquid detergent and water. You can also use the containers of “Jewelry Cleaner” available at jewelry and department stores. These typically have a small basket the ring can sit in and a small, soft brush to clean the hard to reach places around the diamond. Swish the ring around in the solution, rinse it with warm water, and dry the ring with a lint-free cloth. While chemicals will probably not hurt your diamond, harsh chemicals like chlorine or bleach can weaken and discolor the metal in the jewelry. Keep in mind that swimming pools and hot tubs usually have high levels of chlorine and are not a safe place for jewelry.

There are many types of ultrasonic cleaners available to the public today. The piece of jewelry sits in a basket of water and detergent. The ultrasonic cleaner produces high-frequency turbulence that is an excellent way to clean the hard to get at part of jewelry. Not all gemstones are as durable as diamonds. Never put soft materials like emeralds, opals and pearls in an ultrasonic cleaner.

With a little common sense and regular cleaning, your diamonds will keep their sparkle and beauty for years of enjoyment.

A diamond engagement ring laid with a large diamond can catch people’s attention and make its wearer proud. However, large diamonds are costly. So you go for a ring studded with tiny diamonds. Do you know that it is possible to make these tiny diamonds look like a large diamond?

If you don’t, read the following tips. You might then be able to show off a diamond engagement ring set with an impressive “large” diamond.

Before we get into these tips, let us first sound a warning against a common practice. Sometimes diamond buyers go for diamonds with a shallow cut. These are diamonds that have not been cut deep enough to give them brilliance. Diamonds get their brilliance from their light reflecting characteristic.

Light hitting shallow-cut diamonds go out their back, instead getting reflected back. The result would be a loss of brilliance, even though the diamond might look bigger. Saving cost by going for shallow-cut diamonds might thus not be the best decision.

So how do you make tiny diamonds look like a big diamond?

Select Fancy Shaped Diamonds

The typical choice involves round shaped diamonds. If you select instead diamonds shaped in elongated shapes like oval or pear, diamonds of the same weight will look larger. There is also the possibility to make your diamond engagement ring look more impressive by tasteful selection of the shape.

Go for a Pave Setting

A pe setting consists of several diamonds set closely together. Small beads of setting metal hold these diamonds in place and make them look like a single diamond – a single ‘large’ diamond. The problem with the pave option is that the intricate metalwork involved can cost more than the difference in cost between a large diamond and several tiny diamonds. You might it less expensive to go for a large diamond.

Consider and Illusion Setting

An illusion setting creates an illusion of a larger and more brilliant diamond by first mounting the diamond on a mirror-like plate before setting it on the ring. Mirrors can create quite effective illusions, as you might have noticed in some shops which seem stocked with double the merchandise. Downside: Illusion set diamond rings are difficult and expensive to repair. And you don’t want your diamond engagement ring in disrepair!

Ask for a Bezel Setting

A bezel setting covers the entire (or part of the) diamond and even the rim at its top, holding it securely. A bezel using white gold or platinum will blend with the diamond and can make it look larger. A gold bezel can, on the other hand, can throw a yellowish tint back onto the diamond, creating a strange effect.

One major plus point for bezel setting it that it can cover any chipping on the diamond. Bezel setting is also ideal for people who follow an active lifestyle, as it protects the diamond from damage.

An Engagement Ring with Side Diamonds

This is an option to add more pizzazz to your ring, rather than make the diamond look larger. Small diamonds are set on either side of a focal, larger diamond. The central stone won’t look larger, but the whole arrangement could create a greater impression.

Explore the Options for Your Diamond Engagement Ring

Your engagement ring has great sentimental value. Do try to make it an impressive showpiece. After all, you have decided to go for a diamond engagement ring. Let the diamond come out really impressive.

Diamond Cut…The Basics: Step 1 – Understanding diamond “certs”Chapter 2If you are going to purchase a diamond, and know what you are getting when you purchase it, you need to be able to understand the information that is presented on a “lab grading report”, and how the information was obtained. Having this knowledge will further assist you to know if any follow up/independent data, presented to you by the jeweler, in conjunction with a “lab grading report”, is valid and accurate. Here are several examples of “lab grading reports”. To gain a better understanding of how information is broken down on a lab report, we will examine one line by line. NOTE: We will not be discussing the relevance of this information to the diamond’s cut quality, as that will be done in detail later on in this tutorial. GIA Lab Grading ReportFigure 2.1

EGL USA Lab Grading ReportFigure 2.2

For the purposes of this tutorial, we will examine the AGS Lab Grading Report. Most reports have similar information on them and are simply arranged differently. Immediately below is the full copy of the “lab grading report”. Since the lettering on this report is quite small, we have included enlarged portions of the report below that will allow us to examine the information contained in this report more closely.AGS Lab Grading ReportFigure 2.3

Figure 2.4

Figure 2.5

Figure 2.6

If we examine Figure 2.4, we see that this area of the report displays the basic information about the diamond. Let’s break this down point by point•    Shape and Style

•    Measurements

•    Cut Grade

•    Color Grade

•    Clarity Grade

•    Carat Weight

NOTE: A very important fact to understand about Color and Clarity is that the grading standards vary widely from on grading laboratory to another. Some of have much stricter standards than others, and this is something that should be carefully considered before purchasing a diamond. Looking at Figure 2.5, we can see a proportion map of the diamond, with basic proportion and measurement data. The first thing that we notice when looking at this, is that the only two standards of measurements used are Percentages and Degrees. The very first measurement of the diamond is the 100%, which is equal to the average diameter of the stone at its widest point, the girdle. It is based off of this percentage that all of the other percentage measurements are calculated.Directly under this measurement, we can see the 55.4% measurement. This is the diameter of the Table Facet, expressed in a percentage of the total average diameter. The vertical line along the left had diamond is the measurement of the Total Depth of the diamond, again, expressed as a percentage of the total average diameter, in this case, 61.9%The vertical line along the right side of the diamond, broken into three different measurements essentially breaks down the factors that make up the total depth of the diamond. These three factors are called Crown Height, Girdle Thickness, and Pavilion Depth.  In this case you can see the three measurements are as follows.•    Crown Height – 15.5%•    Girdle Thickness – 1.6% to 4.4%•    Pavilion Depth – 42.8%The two angle measurements on the left hand side of the graph are the Crown Angle and Pavilion Angle measurements. In this case, the Crown Angle is 34.8 degrees, and the Pavilion angle is 40.6 degrees.The two numbers in the diamond represent facet length measurements.  The measurement in the small facets on top is the Star Facet Length, and the measurement in the slightly larger facets on the bottom is the Lower Girdle Facet Length. For this diamond, the Star Facets measure 51% and the Lower Girdle Facet’s measure 75%. It is very important to understand that these two percentages are not calculated against the total depth. Rather Star Facet Lengths are expressed as a percentage of the total distance between the edge of the Table and the edge of the Girdle. Lower Girdle Facet Lengths are expressed in a percentage of the total distance between the Culet and the edge of the Girdle. (See illustration below)Star Fact MeasurementThe Green arrow, in Figure 2.7, represents 100% of the distance from the edge of the TABLE to the edge of the GIRDLE. The STAR FACET measurement is expressed as a percentage of the total measurement.Figure 2.7

Lower Girdle Facet MeasurementThe green arrow in Figure 2.8 represents 100% of the distance between the edge of the GIRDLE and the CULET. The LOWER GIRDLE FACET measurement is expressed as a percentage of the total measurement. Figure 2.8

Lastly at the bottom, we see the Culet Size. This is almost always expressed as a word. Culet sizes vary including sizes of None, Pointed, Very Small, Small, Medium, etc.The last graphic we see, Figure 2.6, is the Clarity Plot of the diamond. This is where the grading inclusions, that were visible at 10x magnification, are plotted by the grader. Clarity has already been discussed in brief in the Emma Parker & Co. Diamond Tutorial, however there are some simple hints to help you spot important information on the Clarity Plot. All inclusions plotted in RED INK are INTERNAL inclusions. All inclusions plotted in GREEN INK are EXTERNAL inclusions. This basic walk through of the information that is listed on a lab grading report will give you a good foundation in what information you will be presented with later on in this tutorial, and what each measurement relates to. In the following chapters we are going to dig deeper into cut, what to look for in a great cut, what tools and reports are useful in looking for a good cut and how to read them, and more. Written by Timothy Andre, Emma Parker & Co.     www.emmaparkerdiamonds.com

Diamonds have been used in rings since the middle ages, and the first reference to a diamond engagement ring or wedding ring was in 1477. Because of the supernatural powers accredited to diamonds, they became more popular, and Italians said that a diamond maintained harmony between husband and wife.

Diamonds also have a reputation for supernatural powers, such as protecting from enemies, and negating magnets, which goes back thousands of years. Diamonds also play an important role in Hinduism and Buddhism, in fact the oldest dated book, the Diamond Sutra from 868, also mentions diamonds.

Despite having a reputation as very expensive, diamonds are affordable and can be a worthwhile investment. Whether choosing a diamond solitaire ring, diamond earrings or loose certified diamonds, there are several things to be considered to ensure that you purchase the right diamonds for your needs.

Here are 8 tips to help you choose the perfect diamond.

1. Diamonds are sold by weight, so the weight is also the size of the diamond. A carat is divided up into 100 points. A diamond weighing 50 points is half a carat. As well as the weight, cut, colour and clarity are all very important when choosing a solitaire ring, diamond earrings or other diamond jewellery.

The term carat is used to measure the weight of a diamond, and is the equivalent of 0.2g. The term carat came to English from French and means the fruit of the carob. Carob seeds were traditionally used as a measure of weight because the seeds are all very similar in size. Other countries had their own carat, which was approximately the same size as a carob seed, and it wasn’t until 1914 that the carat was standardised to 0.2g in the United Kingdom

2. The cut of the diamond is the only aspect that can be changed by a human. The weight, colour and clarity are all down to nature. A well cut diamond will have many facets which reflect the light. When a diamond is cut, the light reflects from one side to another, to make it sparkle. A diamond that is cut too deep or too shallow will lose light and so won’t sparkle as much.

3. A diamond seen in a jewellers shop, in earrings or on a solitaire ring, is often transparent, or slightly yellow. The whiter the diamond, the more valuable it is. Diamonds with a strong blue or pink colour to them are called fancies, and are very rare. However, diamonds are available in almost any colour.

4. The clarity of a diamond is determined by the number of inclusions which are caused by multiple growth stages in formation. The value of the diamond depends on the number and severity of these inclusions. The clarity scale ranges from diamonds with no inclusions visible to the naked eye, or with magnification, to diamonds with inclusions that can be seen with the naked eye.

5. Diamonds can be cut differently for different applications. A diamond earring might have a different cut to a solitaire ring. The most popular cuts are brilliant, emerald, pear shape, marquise, princess, oval and heart shape. Brilliant cut diamonds are shaped so that they reflect the light upwards and make the diamond appear white when viewed from the top. Sometimes brilliant cut diamonds appear darker at the centre, which can indicate that the cut is too deep or too shallow and the light isn’t reflecting upwards.

6. Loose diamonds can be purchased and then turned into your perfect piece of jewellery, such as diamond earrings or solitaire ring. The type of jewellery that the certified diamonds are for will help to determine the size, shape and cut of the diamond. A ring is likely to require a bigger diamond than a pendant or earrings. These certified diamonds should be approved by an independent gemological laboratory, which acts as a guarantee that the diamonds are genuine, and not manufactured.

7. Purchasing online will allow you to choose the right diamond jewellery for your needs without going into a jewellers shop. As well as being able to choose from a wider range, whether you are looking for a diamond bracelet or necklace, substantial savings can be made as the overheads are much lower.

8. Despite diamond being the hardest natural substance, it is still important to take care of your diamonds. Diamonds can be chipped by a heavy blow, and can scratch other items, including other diamonds, so it is advisable not to wear a diamond ring when doing rough or manual work. Diamonds should also be cleaned regularly using jewellery cleaner.

Now that you know what to look for, and how to purchase your diamond engagement ring or earrings, you can buy your diamonds in safety online from a reputable diamond jeweller and still save money. Surprise the love of your life with diamonds today, and they can be enjoyed for years to come.

Deciding to propose to the special somebody in your life is a huge decision, one that will lead you down a path of even more decisions. Of course, the first thing that needs to be decided after you’ve decided to propose is what type of engagement ring to get. Between diamonds and settings there are so many choices that it can be overwhelming. Hopefully this can be cleared up.
The Diamond
While you’re probably more than familiar with the 4 C’s of diamonds, there are other things to consider when choosing a diamond, chief amongst them, the shape. Here we’ll focus on the shape and two of the C’s; cut and carat. Clarity and color can be saved for another day.
The Shape
With so many shapes out there it can be confusing as to the actual differences, so let’s simply talk about each of them and their individual merits.
• Round – the most basic of diamonds, and the only shape not considered “fancy,” this shape is very much how it sounds – a rounded diamond in the shape of a circle.
• Princess – arguably the most popular shape, this squared diamond has only grown in popularity while still being a relatively new shape. The princess diamond tends to find its way into solitaire engagement rings more than any of the other shapes.
• Emerald – a rectangular shaped diamond, this shape is reflective of a classic and aristocratic elegance. Unlike other diamonds, the emerald shaped diamond is not a brilliant cut but rather a step cut, being comprised of larger, planar facets that resemble stair steps and act like mirrors.
• Marquise – long and slender, this shape, originally commissioned by Louis XIV of France, is wonderful for maximizing the carat within the setting. The marquise shape will accentuate the length of the fingers and works well on a person with longer fingers.
• Oval – as the name implies, this diamond shape is a very simple oval. This shape works very well with smaller hands and shorter fingers, giving them the illusion of added length.
• Pear – a hybrid shape combining the best elements of the oval and marquise shapes, it resembles nothing so much as a teardrop. Typically used in pendants and earrings, this shape compliments short to average length fingers, helping to give the illusion of longer fingers much like the oval shaped diamond does.
• Heart – essentially a pear shaped diamond with a cleft at the top, the heart shaped diamond is the ultimate symbol of romance. This shaped diamond is frequently seen in pendants but is more than acceptable as a choice in a ring.
• Radiant – this square or rectangular shaped diamond does an excellent job of combining the elegant and classic appeal of the emerald shape with the brilliance of the round shape.
• Trillion – a wedge of brilliant fire, the trillion shaped diamond was first developed in Amsterdam. Traditionally a triangle shaped diamond, the amount of point at the corners is often open for interpretation, but these diamonds work well as both a compliment to a center stone, a unique center stone in themselves, or as a pair of earrings.
• Baguette – very reminiscent of the emerald shaped diamond, this shape of diamond is frequently used as side stones to a larger center stone. Much like the emerald shaped diamond, the baguette shape doesn’t feature nearly the sparkle of brilliant shaped diamonds, but does offer a classic beauty that is hard to match.
The shape is only the first part of what to look for, at least initially, when considering a diamond for an engagement ring.
The Carat
Carats are essentially a way to measure the weight of diamonds. While the use of the carat measuring system may date back to ancient Oriental bazaars and the carob seed, in the present we know that the more carats in the diamond, the bigger it is.
While the size of the diamond that you get can be determinate on a number of factors, not the least of which is cost, the Setting and Mounting that you choose can also have an influence on the size of the diamond that you get for your ring.
The Cut
Of the 4 C’s of a diamond, the cut is the only part that is actually influenced by humans, nature getting to decide on the carat, clarity, and color of an individual diamond. Cut refers to the angles and proportions a jeweler creates when taking a rough diamond and transforming it into a beautiful, polished diamond. The cut of the diamond should not be confused with the shape of the diamond. A well cut diamond will reflect light from one mirrored facet to another internally, finally dispersing and reflecting the light through the top of the stone, giving it that sparkle that diamonds are beloved for.
There are a few ways that diamonds are graded for their cut, all of which are influenced by the diameter, table, crown, girdle, pavilion, cutlet, and depth of the stone, and those include:
• Ideal – this is the best cut available and represents the top 15% of all diamond cuts. The ideal cut carries with it the highest possible grades of symmetry and polish and should be sought after when looking for the best available diamonds.
• Very Good – diamonds graded at very good are still nothing short of amazing, but they do tend to trade in some of the brilliance seen in an ideal diamond cut for added size. While a more cost-effective option, they may tend to move outside the appearance range for some buyers. Very good diamonds represent the top 25% of diamond cuts.
• Good Cut – representing the top 35% of diamond cuts, good cut diamonds are still quality cuts, but they will show a significant lack of brilliance when compared to very good and ideal cut diamonds, however, they are significantly more cost-effective than either very good or ideal cut diamonds, making them more accessible.
• Fair & Poor – these cuts of diamond simply fail to reflect a sufficient amount of the light that enters them. Usually found in discount or promotional jewelry, it is nearly impossible to find these diamond cuts at any quality seller of diamonds and engagement rings.
The Setting
As important as the diamond is, the Setting may be just as important. You can have a great diamond, but put that diamond into the wrong Setting and it can lose a lot of its luster and appeal. While there aren’t nearly as many Setting types as there are shapes and cuts of diamonds, there are enough that when combined with the diamond cuts and shapes you have enough combinations to make choosing tricky.
The Setting
• Prong – arguably the most common setting, the prong setting is commonly known as the Tiffany setting. Small metal prongs, typically 4 or 6, are used to clasp over the diamond and keep it in place within the setting while giving an optimal view of the diamond at all angles. When choosing this setting it’s wise to consider which metal you’ll be choosing as you may want something stronger than gold, such as Palladium or Platinum, to ensure that your diamond doesn’t come out of the setting.
• Channel – in this setting the stones are placed between vertical walls of metal, side by side, with no metal separating the diamonds from each other. With the diamonds sunk into the ring itself they are nearly flush with the surface of the ring. This setting is considered both very contemporary and very classic and allows one to achieve a number of looks. This setting is very popular in wedding rings and anniversary bands.
• Basket – similar to the prong setting, but instead of just the prongs holding the diamond in place there is an additional band of metal that secures the prongs to help reduce any movement of the prongs and ensure the security of the diamond within the setting.
• Bar – with the bar setting, diamonds are placed between bars of metal that run perpendicular to the band of the engagement ring. This setting is a very contemporary look that allows for excellent display of the diamonds.
• Pave – with the pave setting many small gemstones are placed inside of tapered holes to create a “paved” appearance. The diamonds are typically set in white gold to help create a sparkle finish that will bring the stones to prominence.
• Bezel – this setting involves placing the diamond in a mount that comes up and envelopes the diamond. Without any prongs, this mount is great for those that lead an active lifestyle, don’t want to worry about scratching themselves or others, or for those whose job requires that they wear latex gloves on a regular basis. Bezel settings can have straight edges, scalloped edges, or can be molded to any shape to accommodate varying stones.
• Half-Bezel – similar in design to the bezel setting. The half-bezel setting does not completely surround the diamond, allowing additional light to reach the stone and create a higher degree of brilliance.
• Tension – This type of setting uses the ring itself as the entire mounting, eschewing the use of prongs. Typically employing stronger metals and a thicker band to help maintain the tension on the stone, this setting does an excellent job of highlighting the diamond by giving it the appearance of floating within the ring.
As you can see, there are more than enough options to make choosing that perfect diamond engagement ring tricky, so now that you’re aware of the options here’s some advice on getting the ring that she’ll love and cherish for as long as you’re together.
• Talk to Her – find out what it is she wants from a ring. Does she want a solitaire ring or has she had her heart set on a three stone diamond ring since she was a little girl? Is it princess shape or no shape, or will she be happy with anything as long as it comes from you? Is there a particular metal that she would prefer for the actual band of the ring?
• Be Aware of Your Budget – sure, tradition says you’re supposed to spend two months salary on the ring, but depending on what your salary is that could mean you’re also not eating for a couple of weeks. Be realistic with yourself when you start shopping for a ring, get her what she wants, but also make sure that you won’t have to take out a second mortgage just to buy the ring she’s wanted since she was 12 years old.
• Show Her What You’re Looking At – if you’re ready to propose the odds are pretty good that she’s ready for you to propose. If the proposal is no secret then have her help you pick out the ring, or propose with a small, inexpensive ring and then take her with you to pick out her real engagement ring. That way you can be sure that she gets what she wants.
• Talk to an Expert – You might be surprised that the person behind the counter at the store or checking email online is actually an expert. If you’re not sure just know that it’s better to ask questions then to get it wrong. Tell those experts about how your better half lives, what they’ve mentioned they’d want in a ring, what they do for a living. All those things can give the person you’re talking to a better idea of what kind of diamond engagement ring would work best for the most important person in your life.
Picking out an engagement ring can be intimidating. Between the diamonds and the settings there are more options than is really reasonable to look at. Knowing what your better half wants can help narrow down that list and ensure that you get the ring that will have her saying yes over and over again.

The reason that it is so important to understand that uniqueness of diamonds, the difficulty with which the cutting process is fraught, the immense variation in cut grading, and the application of scientific tests, is that this understanding is imperative to gaining a full comprehension of diamond “certs”, how they are produced, and why there are so many conflicting opinions in the industry.The diamond “cert” as it has become known, is in actuality, not a certificate, as the name would suggest, but is rather a report issued by the gemological laboratory that was paid, by the diamond’s owner, to grade the diamond. The report, commonly called the “cert” (this will be referred to as a “lab grading report” for the remainder of this tutorial), is a printed record of the gemological lab’s determinations as to the quality of the diamond. The findings, although based on a scientific grading system, are really a codified representation of a subjective grading analysis that was performed by one or several human graders, each subject to their own grading style and grading predispositions. Each gemological laboratory has its own individual grading process, that stems off of its unique grading protocol, using its own predetermined course of grading procedures, and employing its own preselected scientific equipment for testing and observing the stone in question.The fact that there are many different gemological laboratories, each with its own grading system, has lead to a wide variety of “lab grading reports” being issued on diamonds, and presented to the general consumer as absolute fact about the quality of the diamond being purchased.Of course, at this point, the question must be asked…why are there so many standards…and why has no single standard been determined?  The answer is quite simple. Most consumers, when presented with a “lab grading report”, are wiling to take the information being presented about the stone at face value, many times with little or no knowledge about the gemological laboratory, its grading practices and procedures, or its reputation in the market place. This action by consumers, and the fact that retailers are aware of this fact, has lead to a very simple, yet very detrimental trend in the diamond grading industry. Consider this…if the average consumer takes a “lab grading report” at face value, without regard to the quality of the grading performed by the lab; and the value of a diamond rests almost entirely, excepting its weight, on areas of subjective grading; i.e. cut quality, color, and clarity; a lab that grades on a loose standard (issuing reports that give diamonds a slightly better grade than the lab’s stricter competitors would give) would allow retailers to present a “lab grading report” that is more “favorable” as well as giving them the ability to charge a higher price for a lower quality stone. The main basis for many labs that grade based on loose criteria is that of consumer ignorance. Diamond cutters, wholesalers, and retailers use these labs to grade their diamonds in an effort to increase the value and salability of their inventory, with the by-product of this effort being added expense to the consumer. It is imperative that, as a consumer, you have a solid understanding of the major gemological laboratories in the market, their grading systems, and their reputations for the accuracy of the “lab grading reports” that they issue. Below is a short list of the major gemological laboratories, in the basic order of their grading strictness.NOTE: It is important to remember that diamond grading is done by humans, which means that human error is a possibility. It is possible for any gemological laboratory to make a mistake in the grading of a diamond. Diamond Grading Laboratories•    American Gemological Society Laboratory (AGSL or AGS)•    Gemological Institute of America (GIA)•    Gem Certification and Assurance Lab (GCAL)•    HRD Antwerp•    European Gemological Laboratories USA (EGL USA)•    European Gemological Laboratories (EGL)•    European Gemological Laboratories Israel•    International Gemological Institute (IGI)Written by Timothy Andre, Emma Parker & Co.     www.emmaparkerdiamonds.com

Diamond Cut: The Basics – Understanding TechnologyChapter 3In order to understand the different measurements, tests, and evaluations that diamonds are put through, and what the results of these test mean to the diamonds visual performance, it is necessary to first have a solid grasp on the technologies and techniques used to gather this data. There are many different tools that are used by gemologists and diamond graders to determine facts about a diamond’s properties. This section is going focus mostly on the more complex and less understood tools, and is also going to focus mostly on tools used to determine cut and light performance. Non-Contact ScannersThe Sarin machine is the most popular device in a small group of machines called “non-contact measuring devices”. These tools are, in essence, scanners that scan the outside surface of the diamond and measure all the flat surfaces of the stone. They do this by taking many 2 dimensional images of the diamond’s silhouette, and from these images, constructing a 3 dimensional model of the diamond, complete with measurements, that is able to be manipulated by the gemologist. Basically the Sarin is able to reconstruct the diamond in a virtual world with extreme accuracy. This is extremely useful for gaining measurements on the diamond, examining the cut of the diamond, determining angles, and more. In addition, the computer software is able to simulate light sources, thereby allowing the gemologist to subject the diamond model to different types of light, at different strengths and from different (single or multiple) angles, and more. This allows the diamond to be analyzed scientifically in a completely virtual realm with astonishing accuracy. The data gained from this analysis is very useful in determining the quality of the diamond’s cut, and hence, its ability to reflect light. Similar scanners to the Sarin are the Helium Scanner and the OGI Scanner. At Emma Parker & Co. we use the Sarin. Reflector DevicesA simple yet critical set of tools that is used to study and critique a diamond’s cut and light performance are the “reflector devices”; the most well known of these devices is called the Ideal Scope.The premise of these tools is quite simple; they show the light that is being reflected by the diamond in a form that is visible to the human eye. This allows a person to observe “light return” vs. “light leakage” in a diamond easily. Having read the Emma Parker & Co. Diamond Tutorial, you should have a solid grasp of the function of the Ideal scope and other devices such as the AGSL ASET reflector. If you have not yet read the Emma Parker & Co. Diamond Tutorial, please stop here and read that in its entirety before continuing on, as it will be necessary in order to understand the upcoming chapters of this tutorial.DiamCalc SoftwareThe DiamCalc Software is a wonderful program that is designed to take the diamond models that are generated by a “non-contact measuring device” and put them into a visible model that can be manipulated in a plethora of conditions, angles, lighting, and so on. It can even take the diamond models and simulate them under “reflector devices” such as the Ideal Scope, ASET, Firescope, and more. This program is able to “skin” the diamond, if you will, with a visual appearance that is very similar to the real life diamond.One of the strongest features of this program is that it allows the user to enter different parameters for the diamond. For example, if we know that a diamond with proportion set 1 looks good, but we want to see what would happen if the table was a different size, we can change the table in the program, and see the effects of this change on the diamond, both visually, and through a reflector device. This is an incredibly powerful tool for research and demonstration. GEMEX BrillianceScopeThe BrillianceScope was designed to measure the light return/optical performance of a diamond in direct light. The technology is actually a very simple and logical design. Have a look at Figure 3.1Figure 3.1

This is a basic diagram of the inner workings of the GEMEX BrillianceScope. The diamond rests on a circular piece of glass.  The cover over the diamond is then closed, creating a completely white environment surrounding the diamond. (See Figure 3.2Figure 3.2

Courtesy of GEMEXLight, generated by a fiber-optic ring light is then projected up, through an opening in the white half-sphere, through the glass, into the top of the diamond, as illustrated in Figure 3.1. The light moves to 5 specific sets of three individual points, stopping briefly at each of the 15 points. For each set of points, a camera, at the bottom of the machine, aiming up through the center of the ring light, triple exposes an image of the diamond, one picture at each point in the set, “laid” one on top of the other, as it were. Once these images are captured and stored, the software breaks down each image on a pixel by pixel basis, and looks at three distinct items.1. The amount of White Light being reflected by the stone. This will account for brightness or brilliance to the viewer’s naked eye.2. The amount of Colored Light being reflected by the stone. This will account for the fire or rainbow colored light to the viewer’s naked eye.3. The “movement” of light within the diamond, otherwise called Scintillation. This will be seen as sparkle to the viewer’s naked eye.These results are then compiled, and compared against a controlled database of diamonds that have been tested on the machine, and the results of these tests form the basis for the “grading by comparison” system used by the GEMEX software. The result is a report like the one pictured below.Figure 3.3

Courtesy of GEMEX.The results of the GEMEX report, displayed above in Figure 3.3,  are heavily curved; i.e. meaning that from the bottom of the chart to the middle of the “HIGH” grade encompasses up to the 85th percentile of all diamonds tested, while grades from the middle of the “HIGH” mark to the end of the scale at “VERY HIGH” comprise the 86th – 100th percentile of all diamonds tested. The GEMEX is an interesting tool, and is useful to a point for gaining a perception of how a diamond will perform in direct lighting conditions, such as direct sunlight, direct spotlighting, etc. The GEMEX is limited by the fact that its results only apply to direct lighting, and that its “grading by comparison” system is a totally subjective grading system which, by its nature, will always be subject to any influences that affected the block of results from the control group upon which the entire basis of the grading schematic rests. Another drawback to the GEMEX is that results can be manipulated slightly by a crafty user. Something as simple as placing a finger print smudge on the top of the diamond can cause a much higher rating on the White Light performance than the stone would have if it were totally clean. Meticulous cleaning of the diamond and the glass is absolutely necessary to ensure a proper scan. GEMEX inspects each scan before a report is issued and will reject reports that show excessive dirt or smudging, however the ease with which results can be manipulated remains a draw back in our opinion. Having an enormous amount of experience with the GEMEX BrillianceScope, both as a selling tool and as an analysis tool, I do believe that the technology is by enlarge sound, and the results valid. I have also found that consumers place far too much importance on the report, and often find themselves crippled with “analysis paralysis” and the fear that they should be waiting for a diamond that scores “the perfect 10” on the BrillianceScope, while letting world class diamonds go by on a technicality from a subjective, computerized, “grading by comparison” system. This is foolish and should be avoided. It is important to consider all aspects of a diamonds performance when purchasing a stone. To do this, one must consider a full body of analysis, of which the BrillianceScope is an informative, albeit non-essential piece. ISEE2Figure 3.4

Courtesy of ISEE2 DiamondsThe ISEE2 machine is another technology that measures a diamonds Brilliance, Fire, Scintillation, and Symmetry in a controlled light setting using mainly diffused light. The inventor of the ISEE2 states that the machine subjects diamonds to 48 different lighting conditions. The ISEE2 takes 15 images a second, and analyzes these images, breaking them down to analyze White Light, Colored Light, Light Movement (Scintillation), and Optical Symmetry (the pattern cut into the stone, in this case the machine is looking for the hearts and arrows pattern that is most commonly displayed in a properly cut 57 facet, traditional pattern round diamond). Having extensively used the ISEE2 machine for both the sale and analysis of diamonds, I can say that the results of the ISEE2 are consistent with other technologies, and are valid for consideration, provided that they are not overly weighted by a consumer in making their decision. As with the BrillianceScope, the rating system used by the software program is proprietary and unknown to anyone other than the developer. As with the BrillianceScope, this would not normally be a reason for concern, as the results have been shown to coincide with scientifically established measurements for “ideal light performance”, save for one critical piece of information; the ISEE2 machine was developed by the manufacturer of ISEE2 Diamonds specifically for the sale and marketing of their own ISEE2 Branded Diamond, which is a 57 facet Ideal Cut Hearts and Arrows Diamond. This fact does not invalidate the ISEE2 as a technology, nor yield its results as void, it merely casts a rebuttable shadow of doubt on a technology that has tested positively in private lab tests with both ISEE2 Diamonds and non-ISEE2 diamonds. The problem lies within the subjective “grading by comparison” standard that is employed by the software, which is proprietary, and therefore not discernable by consumers. So far, independent testing, including my own extensive use of the ISEE2 seems to show that the grading put forth by this technology is consistent and relatively accurate when compared to the current positions, in regards to cut, of the major gemological laboratories, such as GIA and AGS. As with the Brilliance Scope, the ISEE2 is an interesting, albeit non-essential source of information that can be considered when purchasing a diamond. The most prominent danger posed by this technology is the overemphasis that is often placed by the consumer on the importance of its results.GIA Diamond DockFigure 3.5

Courtesy of GIA  The GIA Diamond Dock is a lighting source that is used to evaluate diamonds. (Figure 3.5) This lighting environment is intended to simulate true “daylight” as closely as possible. Using a combination of diffused fluorescent lighting and L.E.D. direct lighting, it is able to simulate daylight fairly accurately. This is very useful for observation, photography, and “naked eye” light performance analysis of a diamond.The Diamond Dock also doubles as a color grading environment. TECHNOLOGIES THAT DO NOT PRETAIN TO “CUT GRADE ANALYSIS”Traditional Jeweler’s Triplet LoupeFigure 3.6

Courtesy of Kassoy.comA traditional jewelers “triplet” loupe is a simple tool that you will find in almost any good jewelry store. This is a simple, hand-held magnifying lens that allows a viewer to inspect the diamond under magnification fairly easily and in almost any location and situation. The standard magnification for these loupes is 10x, however different loupes are available for 20x and 30x as well. This particular kind of loupe is referred to as a “triplet” because the magnifier is actually made up of three different lenses in order to provide the highest clarity to the viewer. At first, using a loupe can be tricky, however with a little bit of practice, it is possible to gather a vast amount of information about a diamond simply by taking a good, long look at it through a loupe. High Power Microscope with High-Definition CameraFigure 3.7

Courtesy of Kassoy.comA good source of high magnification is critical to the proper analysis of any diamond. While observing a diamond through a 10x triplet loupe is good, having the ability to zoom in to 50x or 60x magnification allows a jeweler to learn much more about a diamond and its imperfections, as well as its cut. In addition, having the ability to share this information with a customer is vital to ensuring that the customer feels confident in the diamond they are looking to purchase. At Emma Parker & Co., we use the microscope pictured above. It is a 50x magnification microscope, with glass lenses produced by the company Leica, a leader in the optical glass industry. The microscope also has a high definition camera mounted on it, through which images of inclusions can be taken, and live video of the magnified diamond can be streamed. The pictures taken by this microscope allow customers to see, in remarkable detail, the characteristics of the diamond magnified. See examples below…Figure 3.8

The red arrows point to the “grading inclusions” in the diamond. These are the imperfections that contributed towards the diamonds clarity grade, as given by the grading laboratory, such as GIA or AGS. At Emma Parker & Co., we point out these inclusions with red arrows in a picture taken under the microscope so our customers can easily locate the incusions in their diamonds. ColorimeterFigure 3.9

Courtesy of Kassoy.comIn today’s advanced technological market, advanced and accurate tools have emerged for determining the color of a diamond. The tools, called “colorimeters” have advanced to such a point that they are quite accurate and sophisticated. These are fantastically costly machines, and are not used by everyone in the industry. Like many of our fellow colleagues, we here at Emma Parker & Co. prefer the old fashion way of color grading, the way that GIA and AGS still use to grade diamonds, a white tray, a color grading light, and set of master stones. We feel that some things are better left to the human eye and trained observation. Written by Timothy Andre, Emma Parker & Co.     www.emmaparkerdiamonds.com

Diamond Cut: The Basics – Understanding TechnologyChapter 3In order to understand the different measurements, tests, and evaluations that diamonds are put through, and what the results of these test mean to the diamonds visual performance, it is necessary to first have a solid grasp on the technologies and techniques used to gather this data. There are many different tools that are used by gemologists and diamond graders to determine facts about a diamond’s properties. This section is going focus mostly on the more complex and less understood tools, and is also going to focus mostly on tools used to determine cut and light performance. Non-Contact ScannersThe Sarin machine is the most popular device in a small group of machines called “non-contact measuring devices”. These tools are, in essence, scanners that scan the outside surface of the diamond and measure all the flat surfaces of the stone. They do this by taking many 2 dimensional images of the diamond’s silhouette, and from these images, constructing a 3 dimensional model of the diamond, complete with measurements, that is able to be manipulated by the gemologist. Basically the Sarin is able to reconstruct the diamond in a virtual world with extreme accuracy. This is extremely useful for gaining measurements on the diamond, examining the cut of the diamond, determining angles, and more. In addition, the computer software is able to simulate light sources, thereby allowing the gemologist to subject the diamond model to different types of light, at different strengths and from different (single or multiple) angles, and more. This allows the diamond to be analyzed scientifically in a completely virtual realm with astonishing accuracy. The data gained from this analysis is very useful in determining the quality of the diamond’s cut, and hence, its ability to reflect light. Similar scanners to the Sarin are the Helium Scanner and the OGI Scanner. At Emma Parker & Co. we use the Sarin. Reflector DevicesA simple yet critical set of tools that is used to study and critique a diamond’s cut and light performance are the “reflector devices”; the most well known of these devices is called the Ideal Scope.The premise of these tools is quite simple; they show the light that is being reflected by the diamond in a form that is visible to the human eye. This allows a person to observe “light return” vs. “light leakage” in a diamond easily. Having read the Emma Parker & Co. Diamond Tutorial, you should have a solid grasp of the function of the Ideal scope and other devices such as the AGSL ASET reflector. If you have not yet read the Emma Parker & Co. Diamond Tutorial, please stop here and read that in its entirety before continuing on, as it will be necessary in order to understand the upcoming chapters of this tutorial.DiamCalc SoftwareThe DiamCalc Software is a wonderful program that is designed to take the diamond models that are generated by a “non-contact measuring device” and put them into a visible model that can be manipulated in a plethora of conditions, angles, lighting, and so on. It can even take the diamond models and simulate them under “reflector devices” such as the Ideal Scope, ASET, Firescope, and more. This program is able to “skin” the diamond, if you will, with a visual appearance that is very similar to the real life diamond.One of the strongest features of this program is that it allows the user to enter different parameters for the diamond. For example, if we know that a diamond with proportion set 1 looks good, but we want to see what would happen if the table was a different size, we can change the table in the program, and see the effects of this change on the diamond, both visually, and through a reflector device. This is an incredibly powerful tool for research and demonstration. GEMEX BrillianceScopeThe BrillianceScope was designed to measure the light return/optical performance of a diamond in direct light. The technology is actually a very simple and logical design. Have a look at Figure 3.1Figure 3.1

This is a basic diagram of the inner workings of the GEMEX BrillianceScope. The diamond rests on a circular piece of glass.  The cover over the diamond is then closed, creating a completely white environment surrounding the diamond. (See Figure 3.2Figure 3.2

Courtesy of GEMEXLight, generated by a fiber-optic ring light is then projected up, through an opening in the white half-sphere, through the glass, into the top of the diamond, as illustrated in Figure 3.1. The light moves to 5 specific sets of three individual points, stopping briefly at each of the 15 points. For each set of points, a camera, at the bottom of the machine, aiming up through the center of the ring light, triple exposes an image of the diamond, one picture at each point in the set, “laid” one on top of the other, as it were. Once these images are captured and stored, the software breaks down each image on a pixel by pixel basis, and looks at three distinct items.1. The amount of White Light being reflected by the stone. This will account for brightness or brilliance to the viewer’s naked eye.2. The amount of Colored Light being reflected by the stone. This will account for the fire or rainbow colored light to the viewer’s naked eye.3. The “movement” of light within the diamond, otherwise called Scintillation. This will be seen as sparkle to the viewer’s naked eye.These results are then compiled, and compared against a controlled database of diamonds that have been tested on the machine, and the results of these tests form the basis for the “grading by comparison” system used by the GEMEX software. The result is a report like the one pictured below.Figure 3.3

Courtesy of GEMEX.The results of the GEMEX report, displayed above in Figure 3.3,  are heavily curved; i.e. meaning that from the bottom of the chart to the middle of the “HIGH” grade encompasses up to the 85th percentile of all diamonds tested, while grades from the middle of the “HIGH” mark to the end of the scale at “VERY HIGH” comprise the 86th – 100th percentile of all diamonds tested. The GEMEX is an interesting tool, and is useful to a point for gaining a perception of how a diamond will perform in direct lighting conditions, such as direct sunlight, direct spotlighting, etc. The GEMEX is limited by the fact that its results only apply to direct lighting, and that its “grading by comparison” system is a totally subjective grading system which, by its nature, will always be subject to any influences that affected the block of results from the control group upon which the entire basis of the grading schematic rests. Another drawback to the GEMEX is that results can be manipulated slightly by a crafty user. Something as simple as placing a finger print smudge on the top of the diamond can cause a much higher rating on the White Light performance than the stone would have if it were totally clean. Meticulous cleaning of the diamond and the glass is absolutely necessary to ensure a proper scan. GEMEX inspects each scan before a report is issued and will reject reports that show excessive dirt or smudging, however the ease with which results can be manipulated remains a draw back in our opinion. Having an enormous amount of experience with the GEMEX BrillianceScope, both as a selling tool and as an analysis tool, I do believe that the technology is by enlarge sound, and the results valid. I have also found that consumers place far too much importance on the report, and often find themselves crippled with “analysis paralysis” and the fear that they should be waiting for a diamond that scores “the perfect 10” on the BrillianceScope, while letting world class diamonds go by on a technicality from a subjective, computerized, “grading by comparison” system. This is foolish and should be avoided. It is important to consider all aspects of a diamonds performance when purchasing a stone. To do this, one must consider a full body of analysis, of which the BrillianceScope is an informative, albeit non-essential piece. ISEE2Figure 3.4

Courtesy of ISEE2 DiamondsThe ISEE2 machine is another technology that measures a diamonds Brilliance, Fire, Scintillation, and Symmetry in a controlled light setting using mainly diffused light. The inventor of the ISEE2 states that the machine subjects diamonds to 48 different lighting conditions. The ISEE2 takes 15 images a second, and analyzes these images, breaking them down to analyze White Light, Colored Light, Light Movement (Scintillation), and Optical Symmetry (the pattern cut into the stone, in this case the machine is looking for the hearts and arrows pattern that is most commonly displayed in a properly cut 57 facet, traditional pattern round diamond). Having extensively used the ISEE2 machine for both the sale and analysis of diamonds, I can say that the results of the ISEE2 are consistent with other technologies, and are valid for consideration, provided that they are not overly weighted by a consumer in making their decision. As with the BrillianceScope, the rating system used by the software program is proprietary and unknown to anyone other than the developer. As with the BrillianceScope, this would not normally be a reason for concern, as the results have been shown to coincide with scientifically established measurements for “ideal light performance”, save for one critical piece of information; the ISEE2 machine was developed by the manufacturer of ISEE2 Diamonds specifically for the sale and marketing of their own ISEE2 Branded Diamond, which is a 57 facet Ideal Cut Hearts and Arrows Diamond. This fact does not invalidate the ISEE2 as a technology, nor yield its results as void, it merely casts a rebuttable shadow of doubt on a technology that has tested positively in private lab tests with both ISEE2 Diamonds and non-ISEE2 diamonds. The problem lies within the subjective “grading by comparison” standard that is employed by the software, which is proprietary, and therefore not discernable by consumers. So far, independent testing, including my own extensive use of the ISEE2 seems to show that the grading put forth by this technology is consistent and relatively accurate when compared to the current positions, in regards to cut, of the major gemological laboratories, such as GIA and AGS. As with the Brilliance Scope, the ISEE2 is an interesting, albeit non-essential source of information that can be considered when purchasing a diamond. The most prominent danger posed by this technology is the overemphasis that is often placed by the consumer on the importance of its results.GIA Diamond DockFigure 3.5

Courtesy of GIA  The GIA Diamond Dock is a lighting source that is used to evaluate diamonds. (Figure 3.5) This lighting environment is intended to simulate true “daylight” as closely as possible. Using a combination of diffused fluorescent lighting and L.E.D. direct lighting, it is able to simulate daylight fairly accurately. This is very useful for observation, photography, and “naked eye” light performance analysis of a diamond.The Diamond Dock also doubles as a color grading environment. TECHNOLOGIES THAT DO NOT PRETAIN TO “CUT GRADE ANALYSIS”Traditional Jeweler’s Triplet LoupeFigure 3.6

Courtesy of Kassoy.comA traditional jewelers “triplet” loupe is a simple tool that you will find in almost any good jewelry store. This is a simple, hand-held magnifying lens that allows a viewer to inspect the diamond under magnification fairly easily and in almost any location and situation. The standard magnification for these loupes is 10x, however different loupes are available for 20x and 30x as well. This particular kind of loupe is referred to as a “triplet” because the magnifier is actually made up of three different lenses in order to provide the highest clarity to the viewer. At first, using a loupe can be tricky, however with a little bit of practice, it is possible to gather a vast amount of information about a diamond simply by taking a good, long look at it through a loupe. High Power Microscope with High-Definition CameraFigure 3.7

Courtesy of Kassoy.comA good source of high magnification is critical to the proper analysis of any diamond. While observing a diamond through a 10x triplet loupe is good, having the ability to zoom in to 50x or 60x magnification allows a jeweler to learn much more about a diamond and its imperfections, as well as its cut. In addition, having the ability to share this information with a customer is vital to ensuring that the customer feels confident in the diamond they are looking to purchase. At Emma Parker & Co., we use the microscope pictured above. It is a 50x magnification microscope, with glass lenses produced by the company Leica, a leader in the optical glass industry. The microscope also has a high definition camera mounted on it, through which images of inclusions can be taken, and live video of the magnified diamond can be streamed. The pictures taken by this microscope allow customers to see, in remarkable detail, the characteristics of the diamond magnified. See examples below…Figure 3.8

The red arrows point to the “grading inclusions” in the diamond. These are the imperfections that contributed towards the diamonds clarity grade, as given by the grading laboratory, such as GIA or AGS. At Emma Parker & Co., we point out these inclusions with red arrows in a picture taken under the microscope so our customers can easily locate the incusions in their diamonds. ColorimeterFigure 3.9

Courtesy of Kassoy.comIn today’s advanced technological market, advanced and accurate tools have emerged for determining the color of a diamond. The tools, called “colorimeters” have advanced to such a point that they are quite accurate and sophisticated. These are fantastically costly machines, and are not used by everyone in the industry. Like many of our fellow colleagues, we here at Emma Parker & Co. prefer the old fashion way of color grading, the way that GIA and AGS still use to grade diamonds, a white tray, a color grading light, and set of master stones. We feel that some things are better left to the human eye and trained observation. Written by Timothy Andre, Emma Parker & Co.     www.emmaparkerdiamonds.com

Diamond Cut: The Basics – Cut, Part 1 – Facet StructureChapter 4Having a well-grounded understanding of a diamond’s facet structure is critical to gaining a full understanding of cut. In this chapter, we are going to breakdown the facet structure of a round diamond and discuss the basic purposes of the facets of the diamond. In the following chapters, we will be taking each shape, with its unique facet structure and discussing it, its cut, what measurements, angle combinations, and facet lengths bring out the stone’s beauty. THE CROWNThe Table FacetFigure 4.1

The table facet is the largest facet on the diamond. It is common to all main-stream shapes (Round, Square, Cushion, Pear, Marquise, etc.), and cut patterns produced in the market. The major function of the table facet is to allow light to enter the diamond through the top. Since a diamond’s sparkle is actually light that is being reflected up out of the diamond, it is critical that large amounts of light be able to ender directly into the diamond. In order to allow a maximum amount of light to enter the stone directly, a large, flat facet on the top of the diamond is essential.The “perfect” table size has been a topic of fierce discussion and debate between experts over the years, with each side being deeply entrenched in their own opinions. As with many areas of diamond cut, many of the experts’ positions overlap, showing that there is a certain amount of veracity and consistence to each of their arguments. Rather than to take a stance with any one school of thought, we prefer to look at the intersection of the major, scientifically supported theories. There is no “one size fits all” when it comes to table measurements. Each one is unique in the way that it interacts with the other measurements around it, and certainly, from shape to shape, proper table measurements take on totally new ranges and rules. We will be looking closely at optimal ranges for table measurements a little later on when we break down our discussion of cut for each different major diamond shape on the market. Something that is very important to remember, not just with the table facet but with all facets on a diamond, is that they live in a 3 dimensional world and can move in multiple directions. Most often, when a facet’s measurement is discussed, we talk about its diameter, depth, length, or angle. However, a facet can “move” in other ways that need to be considered. For example, is the table off-center? Is the table tilted, in relation to the girdle of the stone? Is the table warped, or skewed? Is the shape of the table symmetrical? Is the facet pattern of the stone symmetrical? Are the facets on the pavilion and crown lined up with each other? Is the culet off-center? Is a facet shifted, twisted, rotated, beveled, curved, etc. While this is a topic that we will not be touching on again until later, it seemed fitting to mention it here in order to set the tone for discussions to come. The Star FacetsThe star facets are small, triangular facets that surround the table, in stones that exhibit the “brilliant cut” pattern, such as rounds, ovals, pears, hearts, marquise, princess, radiant, etc; as opposed to a step cut pattern, such as an emerald or asscher; or even a proprietary cut, such as a Lucida, Criss-cut, etc (we will address their facet structures later on). See figure 4.2.Figure 4.2

The stars are the first of three sets of facets that make up the angled portion of the diamond’s crown. Light that enters these facets will be bent as it passes through them, in contrast to light that enters through the table. See figure 4.3 and 4.4. (These illustrations are of a diamond cut to AGS Ideal proportions, using a single “ray-trace light source” in the model to illustrate the path that light takes through the stone.Figure 4.3

Figure 4.4

The facets that make up the crown of the diamond are very important, because they will bend light passing through the diamond in two way, when it enters the stone, and when it exits the stone. If these facets are cut to angles that are inconsistent or improper, it will have significant effects on the sparkle and brilliance of the diamond. The most common measurement used to express the dimensions of a star facet is that of length, which is expressed in the percentage of the distance which the facet covers between the edge of the table and the edge of the girdle (this was already discussed in the first chapter of this tutorial). Again, there are many schools of thought as to what is the optimal measurement. Rather than proclaim the perfect measurement, it is more informative to look at how different star facet lengths affect the diamond, and how their measurements, when combined with various measurements from the pavilion of the diamond, will yield different optical results, within in which it is possible to find differing appearances which may appeal more to one person than another. The result of such truths is that no one measurement is “the best”, but rather a range of measurements and combinations should be considered. We will breakdown the different measurements and combinations for each shape later on in this tutorial.The Bezel FacetsThe bezel facets are the major facets in the crown of a diamond with the “brilliant cut pattern”. It is the angle of these facets that is depicted as the “crown angle” on the lab reports. These are the largest facets in the crown, and have the greatest impact on the light performance of the stone. The bezel facets of a diamond are illustrated in Figure 4.5, shown below.Figure 4.5

The important statistic to consider about bezel facets is their angle. Since they are the major facets of the crown, they impact the bending of light more than the other two facet groups on the crown. The key to finding a diamond with a good or great cut is not in the in angle measurement of the bezel facets alone, but rather in the combination created by the angle of the bezel facets and the pavilion main facets (pavilion main facets will be discussed later in this chapter). It is this combination that will produce the bending and reflecting of light. If only one set of these facets fall into the proper range, the variance in the non-conforming set of facets will offset the other. Focusing on good combinations and how this will affect the diamond’s ability to reflect light is key if you want to find a diamond that is going to have the “wow” factor. The Upper Girdle FacetsThe upper girdle facets are those facets that have one edge touching the girdle. In stones with a “brilliant cut pattern” especially rounds, these small facets can play a very big roll. See Figure 4.6.Figure 4.6

There are two issues that can happen with these facets that can affect the appearance and beauty of a diamond. They will both be covered under the section discussing the cut of a round diamond. So you know to look out for these topics, they are called Painting and Digging. As with any other portion of diamond cut, these points are hot points of controversy and argument. We will thoroughly discuss these issues a little later. THE PAVILIONThe Pavilion-Main FacetsThe pavilion-main facets, sometimes called “the mains”, are the major facets that extend from the culet of the diamond to the edge of the girdle. These facets are responsible for the majority of the light reflection from the pavilion of the diamond. It is the angles of these facets that will determine where the light that enters the diamond will be reflected. Figure 4.7

The measurement used to define this facet set is an angle measurement. You can see this measurement represented on a lab grading report as the “pavilion angle”. This measurement is a very important one, and, particularly in rounds, a very small change in the angle can result in huge impacts to the visual beauty and sparkle of the diamond. Again…as with the crown angle…there is no one measurement that is the “best”. It is all about the combination of the crown and pavilion angles, working together to produce beautiful optics. Of course, there are limits, and angle measurements within certain ranges that tend to produce the nicest diamonds. As we move through the coming chapters on cut, we will examine different shapes, and how changing the angles of the pavilion-main facets can affect the performance and beauty of a diamond.The Lower Girdle FacetsThe lower girdle facets, as their name would suggest, and just like the upper girdle facets, are the facets that extend from the edge of the girdle, down towards the pavilion. They are found in between the pavilion main facets and are grouped two together. Figure 4.8

The primary measurement used to describe the lower girdle facets is that of length, expressed in a percentage…which is the percentage of the distance the facets cover between the edge of the girdle and the culet. Their length is significant, as it can affect the visual beauty and appearance of a diamond, although their effect is not as great as the “pavilion mains”. Also…like their opposites (the upper girdle facets), lower girdle facets can also suffer the affects of Painting and Digging…which we will discuss later. The CuletThe culet is the point at the bottom of the pavilion. The purpose of the culet is really to keep the diamond from being damaged on the bottom. Today, it is most common to see culets that are referred to a “None” or “Pointed”, since most diamond are brought to a sharp point at the bottom. This was not always the case however. Particularly in more antique cuts, it is quite common to see culets that are flattened, creating another facet on the bottom of the diamond.The issue caused by having a large girdle is that it creates a facet that is parallel to the table. This opens an exit point for light to pass through at the bottom of the diamond, which allows light to pass directly through the diamond, without being reflected back to the viewer, i.e. “light leakage”.  Although the look of a large culet can be very enticing, especially in an antique stone, it is important to understand that it will allow a fair amount of light to be lost through the bottom of the stone, and will affect the overall light return of the diamond.It is important to remember, once again, that diamonds are personal, and that something that one customer may consider undesirable, could be sought after and prized by another. The GirdleThe girdle is the thin “band” around the widest part of the stone. The girdle is very important to the cut of a diamond, but not so much in the way of light performance. Rather, the girdle has to do with the structural soundness of the diamond. After all…the diamond will be held in the setting by the girdle, and, while being worn on the finger by its owner…there is a greater chance that the wearer will bang or knock the stone on its girdle than any other part of the diamond.The girdle measurement, on a lab grading report, is expressed in either millimeters, or as a percentage of the stone’s total depth. It is important to have a girdle that is the right thickness. The girdle should be thick enough to be secure for setting, and secure against chipping or cracking, however if the girdle is too thick, this will hide “extra weight” in the stone. “Extra weight” is carat weight that you pay for in the price, but don’t see in the actual millimeter diameter of the diamond. There are many places that diamond cutters can hide weight in a stone…the girdle is just one. We will discuss them more in detail later on in this tutorial.Now that we have taken the time to breakdown the different facets a diamond…we are going to focus on breaking down our next look into the world of cut by considering one shape and cut pattern at a time.  We will continue this discussion in Chapter 5.

Written by Timothy Andre, Emma Parker & Co.     www.emmaparkerdiamonds.com