My Pink Diamonds

Israel Glitters with Its Diamonds

The Israeli Diamond industry has designated India as a strategic target for 2008. Diamonds account for about 70 per cent of the bilateral trade between Israel and India and the volume has been growing rapidly in the recent past.

The Israel Diamond Exchange is the official name of the organisation in Tel Aviv that organises, conducts and manages the industry to the benefit of its members. The building looms large in the Ramat Gan area of the city, and appears disproportionately large in the tourist maps of the city.

But I was hard pressed to explain my destination to my taxi driver. After trying to say the name with different accents, I pulled out the map and pointed it to him. ‘Ah, Borsa,’ he exclaimed. Everybody knows the borsa, or the bourse, where diamonds are traded.

Interesting anomaly.

But diamonds in Israel is itself an interesting anomaly. Early economic theories stressed the need for natural resources on which to base a country’s economic development till countries such as Singapore proved that what you needed was a vision, and hard work to make development happen. Israel is like that. Without diamond mines and without a major market to consume the product, Israel is still a major player in the global diamond industry.

Israel is said to account for roughly half of the rough and polished diamonds traded in the world, and has built this position based on its creativity and technological competence in polishing and designing equipment that is used in the industry.

The Diamond Exchange is a comprehensive centre; a complex of four interconnected buildings with what is reportedly the world’s largest trading floor, offices for the traders, banks, post office, restaurants, a synagogue, and day care facilities for children. You do not need to leave the place! Such a centre, in any place, needs to have high security, and in Israel, which is not at peace with all its neighbours and faces violent attacks, the need for security has the place tightly sewed up. I had to provide my passport particulars a day ahead in order to be cleared to enter the building.

The security also seems appropriate for a business that has, at higher levels, been shrouded in secrecy, and is an industry that seems to deviate from all the accepted theories of business and management. The official face of DeBeers, the private company that controls the industry, is just innocuously called the Central Selling Organisation (CSO), not wanting to attract attention. Hmm. An organisation that does not want publicity!

Crafted by CSO

The diamond industry is carefully managed by the CSO, which has about 50 per cent of the world’s share of the market. Much like the central planners of the former Soviet Union, it sets the prices at which it will sell its rough diamonds to ‘sight holders’ who are its approved buyers. You take it or decline; there is no negotiation. Even Russia, now a major diamond producer, prefers to let DeBeers take the lead in setting prices, for the company has mastered the art of managing both demand and supply to keep price high. Interestingly enough, in the case of luxury goods such as diamonds, nobody is interested in the prices crashing! It is obvious that the supplier wants high prices, but so does the buyer, for it represents her/his status and luxury.

That same spirit of secrecy and security pervades other aspects of the operations of the diamond exchange. In any other exchange, you will see listings of opening and closing prices and volume of trades in a day. Not here. The Exchange does not keep records of the volume of business conducted on the trading floor. You are not going to see flashing signs listing the going price.

You will see two individuals seated across a small desk, negotiating a price for a small piece of stone wrapped in paper. A trader, who has just made a few millions in profit, will probably shuffle across the floor claiming to his friends that business is bad, so as not to attract attention! A person transporting diamonds is not likely to advertise that fact too for obvious reasons.

SBI in fray

The Israeli Diamond industry has designated India as a strategic target for 2008, signalling that there is going to be increased cooperation between the two countries. The trend has been building for a while. Diamonds account for about 70 per cent of the bilateral trade between Israel and India and the volume has been growing rapidly in the recent past.

If the diamond business is growing, the banks cannot be far behind. And that is where the State Bank of India (SBI) has entered the fray. The bank has been in the diamond business for about 30 years and already operates in other diamond centres such as Antwerp, Hong Kong, Johannesburg, New York and Mumbai.

Ms V. Sasikala, my gracious host during my visit to the Diamond Exchange, is the CEO of SBI’s operations in Tel Aviv and was sent there to get the operations started. She has successfully managed to find a strategic perch for the bank by locating it physically in the bourse in such a manner that the bank can be accessed from the rear by its diamond clients and thus have all the security protection they need At the same time, the bank can be accessed from the front by ‘market’ (or non-diamond) customers without being hassled by the need for security clearances.

‘Cutting-edge’ technology

There are about 35 Indians in the diamond business in the bourse and they have been operating there long before diplomatic relations were established between the two countries in 1992. One of them, Nimish Modi, who has been operating in Israel for about 30 years, briefed me on the changes he has seen in the business.

One has been the inroads that machines and technology have made, gradually taking over skills that were previously in the domain of human expertise. Israel’s traditional role in the diamond business came from its diamond cutting expertise which, for cost reasons, has now largely shifted to other countries, such as India.

Mr Modi explained that the two fields in which Israel has competence now is in its network of trading and marketing, and in its technological competence in developing many of the machines that have an important role in the industry.

One of the machines in the bourse’s technical centre demonstrated how much of the skill had now been transferred to the machine.

With the rough diamond placed in a compartment, a laser scans it, analyses the data, and provides a report that gives the colour, carat and other characteristics. It then displays what could be the most efficient cut and is also prepared to mark it on the stone as a guide for the cutter. While the standard mass merchandising diamonds go to China, the more creative cuts are done in India.

Ms Sasikala took about nine months since landing in Tel Aviv to start the branch, which began operations in 2007 and was also the first foreign bank in the bourse. Often one thinks of starting operations in a new country as challenging due to the need to understand the environment, which includes the regulations, the local business culture, finding the office space and people, and so on.

But there is another side to it, namely, the need to effectively convey to one’s head office how some of the standard operating procedures and rules will not work in the new environment and secure the necessary permissions to design a new structure and culture. So, a pioneering manager has to manage both ends of the operation while at the same time, setting the right precedents.

Opening up opportunities

The diamonds sector makes up about 90 per cent of SBI’s business there now, but Ms Sasikala sees enough opportunities in other sectors of Israel’s economy that do business with India such as telecommunications, plastics, chemicals, and pharmaceuticals, to drop the diamonds’ share of her business to about 50 per cent in the near future. Not a small achievement.

Here is an interesting example of the kinds of opportunities that have shown up on her door. Since religious strictures prevent orthodox Jews from receiving interest from other Jews, they shun Jewish banks and are looking at SBI with great interest!

Israel is thriving and it will be wonderful if it can share some of that prosperity with its poorer cousins, the Palestinians. SBI can even play a role here with India having good relations with both sides of the disputed territories. SBI’s expertise in lending to small businesses, weaker sections, and priority sectors is applicable in the West Bank. Maybe we will see an office there too very soon.

Believe it a not; there are jewelers who are unable to differentiate a diamond cut from a diamond shape. Everyone is so hyped up about the carat weight and has totally forgotten about the other 3 characteristics of a diamond. It won’t take you years or months to learn something about diamond. There are plenty of articles and information on the 4C of a diamond. Spend some useful time in the library or internet and learn about diamonds. Who knows, you may become an expert in diamonds. 1. Prioritize the 4 characteristics There are much more about diamonds than just the 4Cs. But at the end of the day, the 4Cs are still the major factors influencing the quality and price of a diamond. Before you start prioritizing the 4Cs, you got to know what your girl actually likes about a diamond. If she like big one, go for a diamond with big carat weight but with poorer quality in terms of color, cut or clarity. If she likes the brilliance of a diamond and doesn’t mind the size, choose one with excellent cut and clarity. Whichever the case is, prioritizing the 4Cs will give you a better idea of what diamonds will suit her taste as well as your budget. 2. Do a price research Based on your list, you should have a rough estimate of the market price of the diamond you are looking for. If the price is out of your budget, try going for a grade lower than your expectation and you may eventually find one that suits you well. 3. Do some background research on the jewelry stores If you have been doing researching, you would have come across information on cubic zirconium diamonds. These synthetic diamonds are D-color graded, flawless and cut to perfection. In short, a CZ diamond is a ‘perfect’ diamond. It is brilliant, flawless and yet cheap. Their prices do not increase exponentially with their quality unlike diamonds. And there are also some natural diamonds which have undergone treatments to reduce its blemishes thus enhanced its appearance. It is still a low grade diamond and dishonest dealers may try to pass it off as a good graded diamond and sell you at a higher price. So, before you start swiping your hard-earned money away, do some research about the jeweler as well. Ask your family, relatives or friend who have purchased from the dealer. Online forum is a good place to ask around and there are plenty of sites that provide reviews on jewelry store online. Give the jewelry store a call, talk to their staffs and decide for yourself if you are comfortable with the store. 4. Always ask for a money back guarantee There are risks in very form of transactions, so do buying diamonds. Protect yourself and minimize any risks by making sure that the store has the complete details about their return policy. It should include information about the validity period, what to do if you wish to return your purchase and their address. As a rule of thumb, online stores should offer you no less than 21 days return policy. In fact, most of them have a return policy of 30 days. 5. Choose jewelers who provide grading reports Certified diamonds will come along with a grading report by reputable gemology organizations such as GIA or AGS. Some online jewelry stores certified their diamond by in-house gemologists and they may be using different grading standards from GIA or AGS, while others may not provide the grading reports. Diamonds from top online jewelry stores generally comes accompanied with a grading report. After you have purchased your diamond, you should get it appraised again with the grading report by a trained gemologist. The grading report will be very helpful in ascertaining whether the diamond you have bought is up to the specifications shown on the report.

About the author: Mr. P Sharma is the owner of the Diamonds and Diamond Jewellery (http://djewels.org), a website that offers reviews on online jewelry stores selling diamonds and diamond jewelry.

The State of Israel is unquestionably proud of its diamond Industry, one of the country’s leading and earliest exporters. The industry’s indomitable spirit reflects the unique determination that has helped to make the State of Israel the unique country that it is today. 

The Israeli Diamond Industry has an illustrious past whose foundations were laid in a beleaguered Land of Israel during the late 1930’s and early 1940’s.  At the time the winds of the Second World War were already blowing; many diamantaires fled from Belgium and other parts of Europe; some settled in places like the United States and Cuba. Others chose to come to the land that was then called Palestine.

Yehezkel Goldman, who was named an Israeli Diamond Industry Dignitary in 1994, began his career as a bruter in the Ophir factory on Tel Aviv’s Nahmani Street in 1941.  

Shlomo Vainstein had attempted to establish a factory in 1910, with little success. In 1940 he finally set up a factory in Netanya called “Mazal U’Bracha,” together with Baruch Friedberg. Despite the difficult conditions, the industry began to prosper: In 1940 there were only 5 factories, but by 1941 there were already 12.

The Mayor of Netanya, Oved Ben Ami, provided incentive to the fledgling diamond industry by providing land free of charge for diamond polishing factories. He gave the land and the factory owners provided the necessary equipment,” explains Goldman.

“Those were difficult times,” says Goldman. “In one case, The Irgun Resistance Group (IZL) proposed to a factory owner to stage a robbery so that the organization could use the diamonds to buy arms. The company was covered by insurance. In another instance the IZL robbed Barclay’s Bank on Allenby Street in Tel Aviv. The British promptly came to the factory’s offices to check for illegal activities.”

“One of the workers at the Ophir factory – Yehiel Tresner – was later arrested by the British and hanged for involvement in an illegal organization,” he adds.

“Workers had to pay a daily fee for their seat in the factories. And if a worker wanted to transfer to another factory, he had to receive authorization from the factory owner. Each worker was paid on a contracting basis according to the number of stones that he had cut or polished.”

Goldman established his company in 1951 and was granted sightholder status by the DTC (the Diamond Trading Company) in 1954, until 1992 when he closed his factory.

The industry underwent ups and downs: “There were various crises, for example in the mid-40’s and in the 80’s, but nevertheless the industry prospered.”

Despite the various obstacles and problems, Goldman looks back at those times with great nostalgia: “There was a feeling of brotherhood among the workers. There were soccer teams in the factories and we played against each other. In 1948, the diamond industry was declared essential so key workers were not called up for duty, but I did fight in the War of Independence.”

Otto Birnbach, one of the most veteran members of the Israeli Diamond Industry and also a Diamond Industry Dignitary, recalls how over the years the industry moved from Netanya to Tel Aviv and finally to Ramat Gan. “The Diamond Exchange was initially located at Tel Aviv’s Caf? Palatin and later moved to Ahuzat Bayit. How did the Diamond Exchange end up in Ramat Gan? The Mayor of Tel Aviv, at the time, Mayor Namir insisted that we pay a triple tax for owning a business, an industrial plant and an office. Ramat Gan’s Mayor Krinitzi agreed to charge only one tax. It was that simple.”  

He recalls that the first bank to finance the industry was Union Bank, headed by a Dutch immigrant named Ehrenfeld.

Birnbach was a member of the IZL, along with his lifelong friend, the late Moshe Schnitzer, and many other colleagues. He vividly recalls the stormy Altalena Affair and the fact that an Egyptian bomb fell on his factory , called Nova, on the very first day of the War of Independence on May 14, 1948.  The factory was completely demolished.

“After the War of Independence, I rebuilt the polishing factory and business flourished,” Birnbach says.”In 1947, the late Menachem Begin sent my brother, Max Birnbach, to the United States in order to raise funds for the resistance. He helped to raise funds in New York and also opened an office for the family diamond business.” Otto polished the stones here at the factory here in Bnei Brak and then sent them to his brother to be sold in New York.

“We were producing small stones at the time and large amounts were needed. We employed 250 workers at our factory,” Birnbach notes.

“I look back with pride at the development of the industry and see great changes. We started out as bruters and polishers. Now the Israeli Diamond Industry deals mainly in marketing of polished. Rough diamonds are sent for polishing to the Far East due to cheap labor.”

He continues: “I love diamonds. To me, each stone has a history, a special intrinsic value. There was a special fraternity within the industry, of comrades who followed a joint path for many, many years,” states Birnbach.

Looking to the future, Otto Birnbach summarizes: “I cannot envision a Jewish state without a diamond industry and I am confident that the industry will continue to prosper. I firmly believe “Am Yisrael Chai” – the Jewish nation thrives!”

Maurice Gl?ck was only a child when World War II broke out. His diamantaire father, Yehuda, had moved from Transylvania to Belgium in 1928 and was unable to evade the Nazi Occupation. Yehuda and his wife were taken to the death camps and little Maurice was left with a Christian family. Only Maurice’s father survived the camps. In 1950, Yehuda, who had married his wife’s sister, decided to move to Israel with his new wife and young son.

Yehuda opened a stone quarry near Rosh Haayin which eventually failed. He then returned to Belgium and only came back to live in Israel in 1970. Maurice began his diamond internship in Antwerp in 1965, and in 1967, the family opened a polishing plant in Ramle.

In 1967, Maurice’s cousin, Arie Efrat, a partner in the company, was mobilized during the Six Day War and Maurice stayed at the factory, which was declared essential to the economy. “Our company employed mostly new immigrants. We taught them bruting and polishing, giving them a new profession.”

Maurice adds: “During the Six Day War the diamond community in Antwerp rose to the occasion and sent large donations to Israel. My father gave the first donation of $20,000, a large amount of money at the time, and others followed his example.”

The diamond industry’s financial contribution to Israel didn’t stop there. Subsequently, during the Yom Kippur War in 1973, the Israeli government urgently appealed to the Israeli Diamond Industry for much needed funds. The President of the Israeli Diamond Exchange then, the late Moshe Schnitzer, organized an appeal and substantial sums were handed over.

Maurice notes that his father was a leading expert in large stones, sometimes up to 100 carats or more. During the seventies, Maurice travelled around the world, particularly to Japan, Hong Kong and Singapore, to sell the family firm’s output, which was quickly snapped up by wholesalers and a number of well-established jewelers. “Throughout the seventies there was a great deal of interest in large stones, sometimes seen as an investment, sometimes as a hedge against troubled times.”

He continues: “During the eighties we would also sell diamonds at private parties in the United States. People would buy unset diamonds directly from us. In the late seventies, the price for a one carat of D flawless diamond at the Israel Diamond Exchange would sell for $40,000. A four-room apartment in a good area in Tel Aviv at that time cost about the same. But within a short time the price per carat quickly dropped to $15,000 and even $10,000. Once the prices started dropping, customers held off until the prices dropped still further. The industry was in trouble.”

Maurice adds: “Up to 1981 we thought that normal economic rules did not apply to the diamond industry. We thought that diamonds would always maintain their value. But then reality set in.”

In 1989 Maurice started publishing lists of demands for the diamonds, called ‘Kesher Yahalom’ or Diamond-Link, an innovation in the diamond industry. Those lists subsequently evolved into the IDEX, the international diamond exchange online.

The Israeli Diamond Industry is indeed subject to ups and downs, and trends come and go. In the industry’s early years, only small stones were cut and polished in Israel. Then, until the eighties, large stones were popular and some of the biggest buyers came from the Far East. Thirty years later, the Israeli Diamond Industry no longer cuts and polishes small stones, but it again specializes in large stones. And once again, it is seeking new markets in the Far East.

Through it all, the Israeli Diamond Industry has always risen to the occasion and adapted itself to the necessary changes – much like the State of Israel.

Photographs courtesy of the Harry Oppenheimer Diamond Museum

As the name implies synthetic diamonds look like real diamonds but do not have the same properties as real diamonds.  The ability to determine the differences between chemical compusosition, hardness, weight, and some of the light handling characteristics of real diamonds and synthetic diamonds with the naked eye is extremely difficult.  Man-made diamonds are not considered synthetic diamonds because they do have the same properties as real or mined diamonds.

Cut Glass was probably the first material used to simulate a diamond.  It is readily available, easy to cut and polish and when seen from a distance, looks good.  With all of the information available to today’s consumer trying to pass cut glass off as a diamond rarely works.  Cut glass is still seen in costume jewelry and in the movies today because of its extremely low cost.  The use of cut glass has widely been replaced by the most popular diamond alternative, cubic zirconium.

Since 1976 cubic zirconium has been the most widely used material for synthetic diamonds.  Its low cost, durability and light handling characteristics have made it extremely attractive in producing low cost jewelry.  Cubic zirconium light handling characteristics is so close to that of a diamond that only a trained eye can tell the difference between the two.  The annual global production had reached 50 million carats by 1980.  Cubic zirconium will weigh about 1.7 times more that a diamond.  The hardness rating of cubic zirconium is between 8.5 and 9 whereas diamonds have a hardness rating of 10.

Moissanite or silicon carbide was named after Henri Moissan after he discovered the new mineral in fragments of a meteor found near Diablo Canyon in Arizona 1893.  Henri Moissan is also credited as the first person to have created a man-made diamond in a libratory in 1892.  Moissanite is a naturally occurring mineral that is slightly softer than diamonds with a hardness rating of 9.25 but has almost all of the other properties of a mined diamond.  Charles and Colvard introduced gem-quality moissanite jewelry in 1998.  The thermal conductivity test use to distinguish diamond from other artificial stones was rendered useless because moissanite has almost the same thermal conductivity as a diamond.  It requires highly specialized equipment to determine if a gemstone is moissanite or a diamond.

With the high quality of synthetic diamond on the market the only way you can be sure that you have a genuine diamond is to have it certified and if you are purchasing a new diamond insist on a certification before purchasing.  It will tell you the stone’s carat weight, its color and clarity, and its flaws.  If the seller is unwilling to supply a certification with the diamond then he may not be telling the truth and you should find someone who will.  After all when you want to sell the diamond the new owner will want a certification from you.  Here are a few suggestions for testing to see if you are looking at a genuine diamond or a synthetic before you invest in a more conclusive test. 

Using your diamond to cut glass to prove that it is hard enough to do so may prove to yourself that it is a diamond but that type of abuse can damage any stone.  You could ruin a perfectly pretty piece of jewelry.  Another frequently used to test diamonds is called the light test.  Shine a black light through the gemstone in question.  If a blue light shines though it the diamond could be real.

Careful clean any oil and dirt from the surface of the diamond and then gently blow upon the surface of the stone and if your breath shows for a few seconds after, you have a fake. Genuine diamonds clear up breath almost immediately.

Believe it or not in the olden days diamonds were considered too precious to cut. It was believed that cutting and polishing a diamond rough would rob of its great supernatural powers. The diamond was considered as a prestigious gemstone and only kings and rulers were allowed to posses them, but even they were not allowed to tamper with its original form.It is interesting to know that India was the only source of diamonds, way back in fourth century BC and it was only after Alexander the Great’s conquests that the diamond was introduced to the West after limited trade began between the East and the West. The diamonds were not considered to be as precious and expensive as rubies or sapphires even at this time.Gem cutters started applying their skills on the diamond only in the 1300’s. By this time the trade had opened up between India and other trading centers like Venice and the Europe saw its first cut and polished diamond around 1380AD. With the trade various methods of polishing and cutting the diamond were also shared between the countries. However, travel between the East and West was still not easy and the journey was arduous and took a long time. It was only when Vasco da Gama traveled from the Cape of Good Hope to India by sea that trade routes opened up further as the pains of transportation reduced. Within months of the discovery of this route cities like Bruges, Antwerp, Amsterdam and Venice started seeing large number of diamonds from India in their markets. Roughs from India were transported to these cities that fed Europe’s unending hunger for the gem.The diamond cutting of these times was far less sophisticated as compared to the brilliance that we see today. This is obvious when one observes antique jewelry and antique settings. Many of these simple cuts were later adapted to the more modern cuts over time and records of the methods used can only be obtained from paintings, diaries and catalogs.The journey of the diamond cutting industry, as we know today, starts with the point cut and ends at fancy brilliant cuts. The point cut was the first cut that we are aware of today and it was the most popular cut in the fifteenth century. The cut mimicked the rough octahedral shape of the natural diamond and this was accomplished by the use of stationary polishing surfaces covered with diamond grit and olive oil. To minimize the heat generated due to the friction required in the process, olive oil was used.In the late 1400’s the table cutting style made its appearance. The top part of the natural octahedral shape was cut using the same tools present earlier ‘a stationary cutting surface with diamond grit and olive oil. The end result was that of a polished square facet that looked like a tabletop. Some cutters removed the lower part of the octahedral shape to give it a square shape called the culet. When viewed from the top angle the table cut looked like a square within a square. Since the table top cut improved the reflective index and resulted in higher brilliance and fire, this proportionate cut found a lot of appeal among consumers during the Renaissance period. This cut ruled the diamond industry for the next couple of centuries and there were numerous variations like rectangles, tapered shapes and lozenges.After a couple of centuries of the table cut rule, the rose cut made its appearance and continued to dominate the scene till the nineteenth century. This cut was not conceptualized for octahedral diamonds but a cut that aided in producing the largest cut diamonds from flattened roughs. The rose cut has flat bottoms and triangular facets that become a point towards the top. Though the cut gives a high level of brilliance, the fire that this cut allows is not too high. Creative cutters have created variations of this cut too and we have the double rose and the briolette.The seventieth century saw different kind of cuts coming onto the market. The seeds of the modern brilliant cut were sown when miners found some crystals in the river gravel in Minas Gerais in Brazil. Initially the miners did not realize that the crystals that they were using to keep score in card games were actually diamonds. It was only after someone familiar with diamonds pointed it out to them that they became aware of the value of their find.With resources drying up in India, this deposit was very welcome and Brazil became the key source of rough diamond for the diamond cutters in Europe. Diamonds from Brazil were used to create the first brilliant cuts and thus was born the old mine cut, a cushion shaped cut with a deep pavilion, high crown and large culet. Even though the number of facets in the old mine cut are similar to the modern brilliant cut, this first cut did not give as much brilliance since the pavilion was deeper.The modern brilliant cut came onto the scene after more than 500 years of experimentation. This cut was the first cut that brought out the true brilliance of the diamond that it is capable of. A round brilliance has a round girdle outline, symmetric triangular and kite-shaped facets. The table is more than 50% of the girdle diameter and a culet that is hardly noticeable.The earliest of the modern brilliant cut can be traced back to the 1800’s. The cutting establishment rejected the cutting style discovered by Henry Morse from Boston earlier, and stuck to the old mine cuts and European cuts. It was only in 1919 when Marcel Tolkowsky published these cuts did they become popular. Though many cutters who worked on large high quality roughs adopted Tolkowsky’s suggestions, there were others that used variations of this for the smaller diamonds intending to gain the maximum weight of the diamond from the rough. Other variations also made an appearance and thus were born shapes like marquise, cushion, pear and oval.The contemporary cuts allow for higher levels of artistic flair and the roughs can be cut and polished based on minimum loss due to cutting and polishing. With the popularization of the brilliant cut, many fancy brilliant cuts started coming into the picture. It was the success of the round brilliant encouraged cutters to try out other shapes along with the brilliant cut. The triangular brilliant, ‘Trillion’, developed by Leon Finker in the 1960’s became so popular that any people started referring to any triangular brilliant as the ‘Trillion’. Milton and Irving Meyer were marketing their own version at this time and they called it the ‘Trilliant’ and registered the name. The phrase ‘trillion’ had become so generic in nature that they changed the name later to Trielle in 1992.Other brilliant cut shapes like rectangle and square brilliants were also produced. The first rectangular brilliant cut was patented by Henry Grossbard and the same was called as ‘Radiant’. The use of this cut resulted in a loss of 40% of the rough as compared to the 50% lost in the case of a round brilliant. Other brilliant cuts like the square brilliant also came on the scene. Ambar Diamonds, Inc. developed and patented a brilliant square cut called the Quadrillion.Fancy brilliant cuts allow for minimum loss in a rough diamond. They are also very useful in manipulating and perfecting the color of the diamond when seen from the face up. These days the diamond cutting industry makes the use of modern computer software and technology to develop new cuts that can optimize the size of the diamond. The round brilliant has been perfected further with the use of technology that can standardize the production process to create symmetrical, proportionate and proprietary diamond cuts.Some marketers and manufacturers tried to promote what they called the ‘ideal cut’ in the 1990’s. This was marketed as the cut that was ideal for a specific diamond to provide minimum loss, maximum brilliance and fire. Though the concept was welcomed by researchers of the diamond cut industry, there was no proof that the ‘ideal cut’ was really ideal. The technology allows the customer to see the various cuts and how each one compares to the other. However, diamond critics claim that there is more to a diamond than the cut alone and that there may not be one ideal cut that fits all.Even though history has seen various cuts that have come and gone and technological and creative expertise in this field, there is no doubt about the fact that what really matter in the end is the perceived beauty of the diamond by the buyer, the wearer and the onlookers!

Diamond simulant are gemstones that resemble natural diamonds but in reality are not natural diamonds. These simulants may be natural or man made. The craze and demand for diamond jewelry has resulted in the high number of diamond simulants floating in the market today. But even as people try and pass off diamond simulants as diamonds, the beauty, brilliance, light reflection property, sparkle and luster of the natural diamond will always remain unmatched.There is nothing wrong in buying, selling and trading diamond simulants. In fact there is a significant market for these simulants since many jewelers use them in fashion jewelry to showcase their designs and also sell them to clients and customers who cannot afford the exorbitantly priced diamonds. The reason why the diamond simulants are priced less is due to the fact that they are almost always readily available. This is sometimes due to abundant availability of the diamond simulant gemstones rough or the fact that they are factory produced in bulk. Using diamond simulants in jewelry can help in catering to a larger clientele since natural diamonds cannot be purcahsed by all the people.If you are in the diamond industry there is only one way in which you can avoid being swindled or misled ever. The answer to this is simply – awareness and knowledge. Since the diamond simulant market exists on its own, there is every possibility that they make their way into the diamond market. The losses that one can incur can be very high if one ends up buying a diamond simulant assuming it to be a natural diamond. In fact, you can get into bigger trouble if you buy a diamond simulant assuming it to be a natural diamond and sell it to another customer.Another concern with diamonds is that many so-called-diamonds are locked up in family heirlooms. These come in the market at some point during which the owner refuses to accept that fact that the piece that he has is not a diamond. For some reason it is assumed that a piece that has been in the family for a long time should be an expensive diamond.The only way to aviod getting trapped by intentional and unintentional fraud is by being aware of the various diamond simulants, knowing to identify a natural diamond and by remaining alert all the time.Be extra cautious while buying diamonds! Make sure that your defenses are alert all the time. Con artists and swindlers have their own strategies of diverting your attention so that certain specific checks that you may otherwise done are left out. Keeping your alertness levels at the peak is extremely important since a small lapse can cause a major problem. This is not to state that most people who visit your store are not legitimate. In fact most are. But then the losses that accrue due to the inefficiencies of a few people can undo the profits and revenues gained from the others.During a specific sale or purchase of a diamond do not get swayed by the smooth talk of the con artist. In case the diamonds are being sent to you in a packet or parcel, make sure that you open and check them in front of the seller. When buying in larger numbers, diamond simulants can be hidden in rough diamonds or finished diamonds. Look for the luster variation, facet edges and differences in thermal reaction.It is obvious to state that dealing in diamond simulants can actually put you in a position of strength (as long as you are aware of what you are buying) because it positions you as an expert. The larger customers that you can attract with your relatively low cost designer jewelry can get you clients that buy higher value items later as well.

Diamond Cut…The Basics: Step 1 – Understanding diamond “certs”Chapter 2If you are going to purchase a diamond, and know what you are getting when you purchase it, you need to be able to understand the information that is presented on a “lab grading report”, and how the information was obtained. Having this knowledge will further assist you to know if any follow up/independent data, presented to you by the jeweler, in conjunction with a “lab grading report”, is valid and accurate. Here are several examples of “lab grading reports”. To gain a better understanding of how information is broken down on a lab report, we will examine one line by line. NOTE: We will not be discussing the relevance of this information to the diamond’s cut quality, as that will be done in detail later on in this tutorial. GIA Lab Grading ReportFigure 2.1

EGL USA Lab Grading ReportFigure 2.2

For the purposes of this tutorial, we will examine the AGS Lab Grading Report. Most reports have similar information on them and are simply arranged differently. Immediately below is the full copy of the “lab grading report”. Since the lettering on this report is quite small, we have included enlarged portions of the report below that will allow us to examine the information contained in this report more closely.AGS Lab Grading ReportFigure 2.3

Figure 2.4

Figure 2.5

Figure 2.6

If we examine Figure 2.4, we see that this area of the report displays the basic information about the diamond. Let’s break this down point by point•    Shape and Style

•    Measurements

•    Cut Grade

•    Color Grade

•    Clarity Grade

•    Carat Weight

NOTE: A very important fact to understand about Color and Clarity is that the grading standards vary widely from on grading laboratory to another. Some of have much stricter standards than others, and this is something that should be carefully considered before purchasing a diamond. Looking at Figure 2.5, we can see a proportion map of the diamond, with basic proportion and measurement data. The first thing that we notice when looking at this, is that the only two standards of measurements used are Percentages and Degrees. The very first measurement of the diamond is the 100%, which is equal to the average diameter of the stone at its widest point, the girdle. It is based off of this percentage that all of the other percentage measurements are calculated.Directly under this measurement, we can see the 55.4% measurement. This is the diameter of the Table Facet, expressed in a percentage of the total average diameter. The vertical line along the left had diamond is the measurement of the Total Depth of the diamond, again, expressed as a percentage of the total average diameter, in this case, 61.9%The vertical line along the right side of the diamond, broken into three different measurements essentially breaks down the factors that make up the total depth of the diamond. These three factors are called Crown Height, Girdle Thickness, and Pavilion Depth.  In this case you can see the three measurements are as follows.•    Crown Height – 15.5%•    Girdle Thickness – 1.6% to 4.4%•    Pavilion Depth – 42.8%The two angle measurements on the left hand side of the graph are the Crown Angle and Pavilion Angle measurements. In this case, the Crown Angle is 34.8 degrees, and the Pavilion angle is 40.6 degrees.The two numbers in the diamond represent facet length measurements.  The measurement in the small facets on top is the Star Facet Length, and the measurement in the slightly larger facets on the bottom is the Lower Girdle Facet Length. For this diamond, the Star Facets measure 51% and the Lower Girdle Facet’s measure 75%. It is very important to understand that these two percentages are not calculated against the total depth. Rather Star Facet Lengths are expressed as a percentage of the total distance between the edge of the Table and the edge of the Girdle. Lower Girdle Facet Lengths are expressed in a percentage of the total distance between the Culet and the edge of the Girdle. (See illustration below)Star Fact MeasurementThe Green arrow, in Figure 2.7, represents 100% of the distance from the edge of the TABLE to the edge of the GIRDLE. The STAR FACET measurement is expressed as a percentage of the total measurement.Figure 2.7

Lower Girdle Facet MeasurementThe green arrow in Figure 2.8 represents 100% of the distance between the edge of the GIRDLE and the CULET. The LOWER GIRDLE FACET measurement is expressed as a percentage of the total measurement. Figure 2.8

Lastly at the bottom, we see the Culet Size. This is almost always expressed as a word. Culet sizes vary including sizes of None, Pointed, Very Small, Small, Medium, etc.The last graphic we see, Figure 2.6, is the Clarity Plot of the diamond. This is where the grading inclusions, that were visible at 10x magnification, are plotted by the grader. Clarity has already been discussed in brief in the Emma Parker & Co. Diamond Tutorial, however there are some simple hints to help you spot important information on the Clarity Plot. All inclusions plotted in RED INK are INTERNAL inclusions. All inclusions plotted in GREEN INK are EXTERNAL inclusions. This basic walk through of the information that is listed on a lab grading report will give you a good foundation in what information you will be presented with later on in this tutorial, and what each measurement relates to. In the following chapters we are going to dig deeper into cut, what to look for in a great cut, what tools and reports are useful in looking for a good cut and how to read them, and more. Written by Timothy Andre, Emma Parker & Co.     www.emmaparkerdiamonds.com

If you are choosing diamond jewellery as a gift or as an engagement ring, it is essential you must to first know how to choose diamond jewellery for your loved one.

Understanding the basics of how to choose Diamond Jewellery will help you choose the best jewellery for your loved one.

The first place to start is the Diamond 4 C’s, these are:

Diamond Clarity

Diamond Clarity defines how clean the diamond is.  Clean diamonds have no scratches, trace minerals or any tiny imperfections.

The clarity of the Diamond is one element that determines the cost of Diamond Jewellery.

Diamond Colour

Diamond Colour defines the grade of the diamond. As Diamonds are taken from the earth’s crust, most of the minerals are colourless. The most colourless and clear the diamond is, the more expensive the diamond jewellery will be.

Diamonds do naturally come in different colours. But it is essential you purchase these diamonds from a reputable Diamond Jeweller, like Acotis. Acotis only sell good quality diamond jewellery.

You should avoid diamond jewellers who may subject the diamond jewellery to artificial colouring or dying.

Diamond Cut

The Cut of the Diamond an important factor determing the cost of the diamond jewellery. The Diamond Cut shows sparkle and shine of the diamond jewellery.  To be assured of high clarity, the diamond should have a big faced cut.  

Diamond Carat Weight

Another important factor to consider is the Diamond Carat Weight. Your Diamond Jewellery weight will be measured in carats; one carat is equal to 0.2 grams.  The weight of the diamond can have an impact on the cost of the Diamond Jewellery.

Choosing diamond jewellery is very much an individual choice. Our advice is to balance the weight with the quality of the stone. Achieving a larger size – If there is a limited budget and the size of the diamond is of the utmost importance, then slightly lowering the colour and clarity can help achieve the desired diamond size while remaining within the budget.

Diamonds are extremely hard and durable. Take care of your diamond by avoiding breaks and scratches and keep it clean. With good care, your diamond will have the same sparkle and beauty in ten, a hundred or a thousand years. Diamonds do not fade, tarnish or wear out like most materials. The secret to keeping a diamond’s sparkle is keeping it clean.

Diamonds are the hardest natural material. Only a diamond can scratch a diamond. Use great caution when wearing multiple diamond rings on the same finger. If the diamonds of one ring touch diamonds in another ring, both diamonds will likely end up scratched in a relatively short time. If you have a diamond wedding band next to your diamond engagement ring, be sure their design allows them to fit together so the diamonds do not touch.

The next most dangerous place for diamonds scratching each other is in the jewelry box. Do not throw your diamond rings, diamond earrings, and diamond bracelet together. Since diamonds will scratch diamonds, think of what they can do to other gemstones and precious metals. Keep your diamond jewelry in separate compartments or isolated by soft cloth to keep them from rubbing each other.

While diamonds are very durable, they can break or chip. You would not let someone hit your diamond with a steel hammer but your diamond ring faces the same type of danger every day. File cabinets, metal seat belt buckles, and car doors are just a few of the metal surfaces that can hit a diamond in the course of a normal day. Avoid sharp impacts with hard surfaces and you will avoid chips and cracks in your diamond.

Diamonds are natural grease attractors. Some diamond mines separate diamonds from the broken rocks by running the material over a conveyor belt covered with a layer of grease. Diamonds stick to the grease and the rocks slide off. At the end of the shift, they remove the grease and melt it away, leaving the diamonds.

Remember diamond’s attraction to grease when you touch a diamond with your finger. The oil from your fingertips will coat the diamond and reduce the sparkle. The same is true when your diamond ring touches the oil in your hair. Hand creams, lotions, hair spray, soap, and grease from food will create a film on your diamond that hides its beauty. When you put your hands in dishwater, the dirt and grease in the water will adhere to the diamond. Dust and powders also cling to diamonds.

Fortunately, diamonds are easy to clean. Put your diamond jewelry in a warm solution of mild liquid detergent and water. You can also use the containers of “Jewelry Cleaner” available at jewelry and department stores. These typically have a small basket the ring can sit in and a small, soft brush to clean the hard to reach places around the diamond. Swish the ring around in the solution, rinse it with warm water, and dry the ring with a lint-free cloth. While chemicals will probably not hurt your diamond, harsh chemicals like chlorine or bleach can weaken and discolor the metal in the jewelry. Keep in mind that swimming pools and hot tubs usually have high levels of chlorine and are not a safe place for jewelry.

There are many types of ultrasonic cleaners available to the public today. The piece of jewelry sits in a basket of water and detergent. The ultrasonic cleaner produces high-frequency turbulence that is an excellent way to clean the hard to get at part of jewelry. Not all gemstones are as durable as diamonds. Never put soft materials like emeralds, opals and pearls in an ultrasonic cleaner.

With a little common sense and regular cleaning, your diamonds will keep their sparkle and beauty for years of enjoyment.