My Pink Diamonds

The cut of a diamond is the physical measurement and relative proportion of a polished diamond and is the most important characteristic in producing a diamond’s beauty. A single number does not define cut. Instead, it is a myriad of measurements, relative percentages, angles, finish, and performance of light within the diamond.

The brilliance and sparkle of a diamond is the result of the reflection and refraction of light within a diamond and is the cumulative effect of the many facets on the surface of the three-dimensional diamond shape. What makes judging cut difficult is that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Different people perceive the beauty of a diamond differently in terms of what they perceive as beautiful.

In recent years, major diamond grading laboratories like the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the American Gem Society (AGS) have established cut grades to help the consumer make better decisions for purchasing diamonds based on cut characteristics. However, the cut grading systems are different from each other and constantly changing. As a result, there is no single official cut grade but the current systems are a giant leap ahead of the past with no cut grades.

The quality of the cut is most visible in terms of how light performs in a diamond to produce Brightness, Fire, and Scintillation.

Brightness is the visual effect of all the internal and external reflections of white light. This brightness (also known as brilliance) results primarily from the angles of the facets and the relative size of the top facet called the table.

Fire is the visual effect of rainbow colored flashes of light caused by the separation of white light into various colors when the diamond acts as a prism.

Scintillation is the visual effect of sparkle and patterns of light and darkness. Sparkle is the points of light that flash as the diamond, the light source or the observer moves. The arrangement and contrast between the bright and dark areas is important to what the eye perceives as beautiful. An all-bright diamond or an all-dark diamond is less attractive than a diamond with a balanced, symmetrical and contrasting pattern of reflection.

Some of the more important diamond measurements influencing the cut grade are depth percentage, table percentage, crown angle, and pavilion angle. The initial cut grade research focused on round brilliant diamond shapes but the grading laboratories are slowly introducing cut grades for the fancy shapes like the princess, emerald, oval, radiant, cushion and others. Each diamond shape has its own set of cut parameters that produce the optimal light performance and beauty for that particular diamond shape.

If the cut of the diamond is the key to its beauty, why would anyone purchase a diamond without great cut? Probably the main reason is lack of knowledge by the consumer. Until recent years, it has been difficult for the consumer to assess the cut of the diamond because jewelers focused on color, clarity and carat weight. The jeweler used the bright lights in the showroom to mask the light performance of the diamond. As the diamond shopper becomes more aware of what constitutes cut and has access to the GIA or AGS cut grades on the diamond grading reports, they will be able to filter out the average and poor cut diamonds in their purchase decisions.

Sometimes budget is a factor in purchasing something less than the best cut. However, cut is typically a real bargain since there is little visual difference between the top echelons of diamond cut and the price difference between average and exceptional cut is often minimal. Perhaps the real cost of getting better cut in a diamond, is the time and effort to learn about cut and to find a retailer who can provide diamonds with exceptional cut at reasonable prices.

Once a diamond shopper has determined what shape of diamond they want to purchase, they need to research what cut parameters contribute to desirable appearance. Some diamond shoppers fall into a trap of narrowly defining their acceptable range for every diamond measurement, not realizing that the beauty of the diamond results from the interrelationships of all the facets. Simply picking the middle of the range for each parameter can lead to a mediocre result. The cut grades are an attempt to rate how a combination of factors work together in the diamond.

Regardless of the cut grade systems today or in the future, only the diamond shopper can determine what is most appealing to their eye. Cut is critical to the beauty of the diamond so making the best diamond purchase decision means understanding the importance of cut and finding that special diamond that is beautiful to behold.

Emma Parker & Co.’s Advance Diamond TutorialIntroductionWelcome to Emma Parker & Co.’s Advance Diamond Tutorial. Before we begin to dig into the deepest areas of the subject of diamonds, let me take a moment to set a little background that will help you as you journey through this document.Before you read any further…you should have read Emma Parker & Co.’s Diamond Tutorial. There is much foundation there that will give you a good base to start from. There will also be instances throughout this tutorial where references will be made to certain items or occurrences without explanation…a solid understanding of the basics of diamonds will be critical at that point. In this tutorial, we will seek to explore diamond cut from top to bottom, starting with a simple breakdown of cut…then moving into more in depth subjects such as facet breakdown, proportions, and measurements. We hope that you enjoy this tutorial, and that it will be useful to you in your diamond search. So now, without further delay, Emma Parker & Co. is proud to present our Advanced Diamond Tutorial.Diamond Cut…The BasicsOne of the biggest misconceptions of “diamond cut” held by the average consumer today is that the term “diamond cut” means “diamond shape”. The two are totally separate and distinct terms, and mean completely different things. “Diamond shape” is exactly that…it is the shape of the diamond…be it round, square, cushion, princess, or any of a number of shapes that are available in the marketplace. “Diamond cut”, however, refers to the angles, measurements, proportions, and facet structure of the diamond. The “diamond cut” directly impacts that visual beauty of the diamond, through its ability to reflect light, and therefore is considered by most gemologists to be the most important factor that should be considered when selecting a quality stone. It is important to understand that there is no base set measurements for “diamond cut” that apply to diamonds in general. Each diamond shape has a different set of proportions and measurements that, when put together in the correct way, create the pinnacle of optical beauty and performance for that particular shape. Thus, for consumers, it should be very easy to spot a “scam” or “generalized sales push” when a set of measurements or series of criteria is presented as being supreme to all diamonds. A perfect example of this is the gross misuse of the term “ideal” in the industry. Ever since the introduction of this term by gemological laboratories, it has been loosely applied to diamonds, with reckless abandon, in an effort to sway customers as to the quality of the diamond. Simple and deceptive tactics…which will be illustrated later on in this tutorial…combined with frequent and loose usage of terms such as “ideal” and “excellent”…have caused massive confusion for consumers seeking to purchase a quality product with their hard earned money.While there are many differing opinions on what constitutes the “best” cut stone, most of the valid opinions on the subject do have a significant amount of overlap, and therefore, by looking at the intersection point of these different theories, consumers can be sure that they will purchase a beautiful diamond.BEWARE THE TRAP! There is NO SUCH THING as the BEST diamond. Diamonds are like fingerprints, there are no two alike. Every single stone has a different personality and carries its own defining marks. This applies to the cut of the stone as well. Hence the search for the world’s best diamond is a purely subjective one, which will yield a different result for each person that attempts the search. It has been an observation of mine, that customers often paralyze themselves with fear, by dwelling on the thought that if they only wait for the next diamond…that one will be “the best”.  While the selection process is a difficult one, and should not be approached with a cavalier attitude, it is critical that you, as a consumer, not handicap yourself with the fear which comes from trying to find the “perfect diamond”. There are many beautiful diamonds in the world, and taking simple steps to find one of them will lead you to a very rewarding end to your quest. Written by Timothy Andre, Emma Parker & Co.     www.emmaparkerdiamonds.com

Diamond Cut: The Basics – Understanding TechnologyChapter 3In order to understand the different measurements, tests, and evaluations that diamonds are put through, and what the results of these test mean to the diamonds visual performance, it is necessary to first have a solid grasp on the technologies and techniques used to gather this data. There are many different tools that are used by gemologists and diamond graders to determine facts about a diamond’s properties. This section is going focus mostly on the more complex and less understood tools, and is also going to focus mostly on tools used to determine cut and light performance. Non-Contact ScannersThe Sarin machine is the most popular device in a small group of machines called “non-contact measuring devices”. These tools are, in essence, scanners that scan the outside surface of the diamond and measure all the flat surfaces of the stone. They do this by taking many 2 dimensional images of the diamond’s silhouette, and from these images, constructing a 3 dimensional model of the diamond, complete with measurements, that is able to be manipulated by the gemologist. Basically the Sarin is able to reconstruct the diamond in a virtual world with extreme accuracy. This is extremely useful for gaining measurements on the diamond, examining the cut of the diamond, determining angles, and more. In addition, the computer software is able to simulate light sources, thereby allowing the gemologist to subject the diamond model to different types of light, at different strengths and from different (single or multiple) angles, and more. This allows the diamond to be analyzed scientifically in a completely virtual realm with astonishing accuracy. The data gained from this analysis is very useful in determining the quality of the diamond’s cut, and hence, its ability to reflect light. Similar scanners to the Sarin are the Helium Scanner and the OGI Scanner. At Emma Parker & Co. we use the Sarin. Reflector DevicesA simple yet critical set of tools that is used to study and critique a diamond’s cut and light performance are the “reflector devices”; the most well known of these devices is called the Ideal Scope.The premise of these tools is quite simple; they show the light that is being reflected by the diamond in a form that is visible to the human eye. This allows a person to observe “light return” vs. “light leakage” in a diamond easily. Having read the Emma Parker & Co. Diamond Tutorial, you should have a solid grasp of the function of the Ideal scope and other devices such as the AGSL ASET reflector. If you have not yet read the Emma Parker & Co. Diamond Tutorial, please stop here and read that in its entirety before continuing on, as it will be necessary in order to understand the upcoming chapters of this tutorial.DiamCalc SoftwareThe DiamCalc Software is a wonderful program that is designed to take the diamond models that are generated by a “non-contact measuring device” and put them into a visible model that can be manipulated in a plethora of conditions, angles, lighting, and so on. It can even take the diamond models and simulate them under “reflector devices” such as the Ideal Scope, ASET, Firescope, and more. This program is able to “skin” the diamond, if you will, with a visual appearance that is very similar to the real life diamond.One of the strongest features of this program is that it allows the user to enter different parameters for the diamond. For example, if we know that a diamond with proportion set 1 looks good, but we want to see what would happen if the table was a different size, we can change the table in the program, and see the effects of this change on the diamond, both visually, and through a reflector device. This is an incredibly powerful tool for research and demonstration. GEMEX BrillianceScopeThe BrillianceScope was designed to measure the light return/optical performance of a diamond in direct light. The technology is actually a very simple and logical design. Have a look at Figure 3.1Figure 3.1

This is a basic diagram of the inner workings of the GEMEX BrillianceScope. The diamond rests on a circular piece of glass.  The cover over the diamond is then closed, creating a completely white environment surrounding the diamond. (See Figure 3.2Figure 3.2

Courtesy of GEMEXLight, generated by a fiber-optic ring light is then projected up, through an opening in the white half-sphere, through the glass, into the top of the diamond, as illustrated in Figure 3.1. The light moves to 5 specific sets of three individual points, stopping briefly at each of the 15 points. For each set of points, a camera, at the bottom of the machine, aiming up through the center of the ring light, triple exposes an image of the diamond, one picture at each point in the set, “laid” one on top of the other, as it were. Once these images are captured and stored, the software breaks down each image on a pixel by pixel basis, and looks at three distinct items.1. The amount of White Light being reflected by the stone. This will account for brightness or brilliance to the viewer’s naked eye.2. The amount of Colored Light being reflected by the stone. This will account for the fire or rainbow colored light to the viewer’s naked eye.3. The “movement” of light within the diamond, otherwise called Scintillation. This will be seen as sparkle to the viewer’s naked eye.These results are then compiled, and compared against a controlled database of diamonds that have been tested on the machine, and the results of these tests form the basis for the “grading by comparison” system used by the GEMEX software. The result is a report like the one pictured below.Figure 3.3

Courtesy of GEMEX.The results of the GEMEX report, displayed above in Figure 3.3,  are heavily curved; i.e. meaning that from the bottom of the chart to the middle of the “HIGH” grade encompasses up to the 85th percentile of all diamonds tested, while grades from the middle of the “HIGH” mark to the end of the scale at “VERY HIGH” comprise the 86th – 100th percentile of all diamonds tested. The GEMEX is an interesting tool, and is useful to a point for gaining a perception of how a diamond will perform in direct lighting conditions, such as direct sunlight, direct spotlighting, etc. The GEMEX is limited by the fact that its results only apply to direct lighting, and that its “grading by comparison” system is a totally subjective grading system which, by its nature, will always be subject to any influences that affected the block of results from the control group upon which the entire basis of the grading schematic rests. Another drawback to the GEMEX is that results can be manipulated slightly by a crafty user. Something as simple as placing a finger print smudge on the top of the diamond can cause a much higher rating on the White Light performance than the stone would have if it were totally clean. Meticulous cleaning of the diamond and the glass is absolutely necessary to ensure a proper scan. GEMEX inspects each scan before a report is issued and will reject reports that show excessive dirt or smudging, however the ease with which results can be manipulated remains a draw back in our opinion. Having an enormous amount of experience with the GEMEX BrillianceScope, both as a selling tool and as an analysis tool, I do believe that the technology is by enlarge sound, and the results valid. I have also found that consumers place far too much importance on the report, and often find themselves crippled with “analysis paralysis” and the fear that they should be waiting for a diamond that scores “the perfect 10” on the BrillianceScope, while letting world class diamonds go by on a technicality from a subjective, computerized, “grading by comparison” system. This is foolish and should be avoided. It is important to consider all aspects of a diamonds performance when purchasing a stone. To do this, one must consider a full body of analysis, of which the BrillianceScope is an informative, albeit non-essential piece. ISEE2Figure 3.4

Courtesy of ISEE2 DiamondsThe ISEE2 machine is another technology that measures a diamonds Brilliance, Fire, Scintillation, and Symmetry in a controlled light setting using mainly diffused light. The inventor of the ISEE2 states that the machine subjects diamonds to 48 different lighting conditions. The ISEE2 takes 15 images a second, and analyzes these images, breaking them down to analyze White Light, Colored Light, Light Movement (Scintillation), and Optical Symmetry (the pattern cut into the stone, in this case the machine is looking for the hearts and arrows pattern that is most commonly displayed in a properly cut 57 facet, traditional pattern round diamond). Having extensively used the ISEE2 machine for both the sale and analysis of diamonds, I can say that the results of the ISEE2 are consistent with other technologies, and are valid for consideration, provided that they are not overly weighted by a consumer in making their decision. As with the BrillianceScope, the rating system used by the software program is proprietary and unknown to anyone other than the developer. As with the BrillianceScope, this would not normally be a reason for concern, as the results have been shown to coincide with scientifically established measurements for “ideal light performance”, save for one critical piece of information; the ISEE2 machine was developed by the manufacturer of ISEE2 Diamonds specifically for the sale and marketing of their own ISEE2 Branded Diamond, which is a 57 facet Ideal Cut Hearts and Arrows Diamond. This fact does not invalidate the ISEE2 as a technology, nor yield its results as void, it merely casts a rebuttable shadow of doubt on a technology that has tested positively in private lab tests with both ISEE2 Diamonds and non-ISEE2 diamonds. The problem lies within the subjective “grading by comparison” standard that is employed by the software, which is proprietary, and therefore not discernable by consumers. So far, independent testing, including my own extensive use of the ISEE2 seems to show that the grading put forth by this technology is consistent and relatively accurate when compared to the current positions, in regards to cut, of the major gemological laboratories, such as GIA and AGS. As with the Brilliance Scope, the ISEE2 is an interesting, albeit non-essential source of information that can be considered when purchasing a diamond. The most prominent danger posed by this technology is the overemphasis that is often placed by the consumer on the importance of its results.GIA Diamond DockFigure 3.5

Courtesy of GIA  The GIA Diamond Dock is a lighting source that is used to evaluate diamonds. (Figure 3.5) This lighting environment is intended to simulate true “daylight” as closely as possible. Using a combination of diffused fluorescent lighting and L.E.D. direct lighting, it is able to simulate daylight fairly accurately. This is very useful for observation, photography, and “naked eye” light performance analysis of a diamond.The Diamond Dock also doubles as a color grading environment. TECHNOLOGIES THAT DO NOT PRETAIN TO “CUT GRADE ANALYSIS”Traditional Jeweler’s Triplet LoupeFigure 3.6

Courtesy of Kassoy.comA traditional jewelers “triplet” loupe is a simple tool that you will find in almost any good jewelry store. This is a simple, hand-held magnifying lens that allows a viewer to inspect the diamond under magnification fairly easily and in almost any location and situation. The standard magnification for these loupes is 10x, however different loupes are available for 20x and 30x as well. This particular kind of loupe is referred to as a “triplet” because the magnifier is actually made up of three different lenses in order to provide the highest clarity to the viewer. At first, using a loupe can be tricky, however with a little bit of practice, it is possible to gather a vast amount of information about a diamond simply by taking a good, long look at it through a loupe. High Power Microscope with High-Definition CameraFigure 3.7

Courtesy of Kassoy.comA good source of high magnification is critical to the proper analysis of any diamond. While observing a diamond through a 10x triplet loupe is good, having the ability to zoom in to 50x or 60x magnification allows a jeweler to learn much more about a diamond and its imperfections, as well as its cut. In addition, having the ability to share this information with a customer is vital to ensuring that the customer feels confident in the diamond they are looking to purchase. At Emma Parker & Co., we use the microscope pictured above. It is a 50x magnification microscope, with glass lenses produced by the company Leica, a leader in the optical glass industry. The microscope also has a high definition camera mounted on it, through which images of inclusions can be taken, and live video of the magnified diamond can be streamed. The pictures taken by this microscope allow customers to see, in remarkable detail, the characteristics of the diamond magnified. See examples below…Figure 3.8

The red arrows point to the “grading inclusions” in the diamond. These are the imperfections that contributed towards the diamonds clarity grade, as given by the grading laboratory, such as GIA or AGS. At Emma Parker & Co., we point out these inclusions with red arrows in a picture taken under the microscope so our customers can easily locate the incusions in their diamonds. ColorimeterFigure 3.9

Courtesy of Kassoy.comIn today’s advanced technological market, advanced and accurate tools have emerged for determining the color of a diamond. The tools, called “colorimeters” have advanced to such a point that they are quite accurate and sophisticated. These are fantastically costly machines, and are not used by everyone in the industry. Like many of our fellow colleagues, we here at Emma Parker & Co. prefer the old fashion way of color grading, the way that GIA and AGS still use to grade diamonds, a white tray, a color grading light, and set of master stones. We feel that some things are better left to the human eye and trained observation. Written by Timothy Andre, Emma Parker & Co.     www.emmaparkerdiamonds.com

Diamond Cut: The Basics – Understanding TechnologyChapter 3In order to understand the different measurements, tests, and evaluations that diamonds are put through, and what the results of these test mean to the diamonds visual performance, it is necessary to first have a solid grasp on the technologies and techniques used to gather this data. There are many different tools that are used by gemologists and diamond graders to determine facts about a diamond’s properties. This section is going focus mostly on the more complex and less understood tools, and is also going to focus mostly on tools used to determine cut and light performance. Non-Contact ScannersThe Sarin machine is the most popular device in a small group of machines called “non-contact measuring devices”. These tools are, in essence, scanners that scan the outside surface of the diamond and measure all the flat surfaces of the stone. They do this by taking many 2 dimensional images of the diamond’s silhouette, and from these images, constructing a 3 dimensional model of the diamond, complete with measurements, that is able to be manipulated by the gemologist. Basically the Sarin is able to reconstruct the diamond in a virtual world with extreme accuracy. This is extremely useful for gaining measurements on the diamond, examining the cut of the diamond, determining angles, and more. In addition, the computer software is able to simulate light sources, thereby allowing the gemologist to subject the diamond model to different types of light, at different strengths and from different (single or multiple) angles, and more. This allows the diamond to be analyzed scientifically in a completely virtual realm with astonishing accuracy. The data gained from this analysis is very useful in determining the quality of the diamond’s cut, and hence, its ability to reflect light. Similar scanners to the Sarin are the Helium Scanner and the OGI Scanner. At Emma Parker & Co. we use the Sarin. Reflector DevicesA simple yet critical set of tools that is used to study and critique a diamond’s cut and light performance are the “reflector devices”; the most well known of these devices is called the Ideal Scope.The premise of these tools is quite simple; they show the light that is being reflected by the diamond in a form that is visible to the human eye. This allows a person to observe “light return” vs. “light leakage” in a diamond easily. Having read the Emma Parker & Co. Diamond Tutorial, you should have a solid grasp of the function of the Ideal scope and other devices such as the AGSL ASET reflector. If you have not yet read the Emma Parker & Co. Diamond Tutorial, please stop here and read that in its entirety before continuing on, as it will be necessary in order to understand the upcoming chapters of this tutorial.DiamCalc SoftwareThe DiamCalc Software is a wonderful program that is designed to take the diamond models that are generated by a “non-contact measuring device” and put them into a visible model that can be manipulated in a plethora of conditions, angles, lighting, and so on. It can even take the diamond models and simulate them under “reflector devices” such as the Ideal Scope, ASET, Firescope, and more. This program is able to “skin” the diamond, if you will, with a visual appearance that is very similar to the real life diamond.One of the strongest features of this program is that it allows the user to enter different parameters for the diamond. For example, if we know that a diamond with proportion set 1 looks good, but we want to see what would happen if the table was a different size, we can change the table in the program, and see the effects of this change on the diamond, both visually, and through a reflector device. This is an incredibly powerful tool for research and demonstration. GEMEX BrillianceScopeThe BrillianceScope was designed to measure the light return/optical performance of a diamond in direct light. The technology is actually a very simple and logical design. Have a look at Figure 3.1Figure 3.1

This is a basic diagram of the inner workings of the GEMEX BrillianceScope. The diamond rests on a circular piece of glass.  The cover over the diamond is then closed, creating a completely white environment surrounding the diamond. (See Figure 3.2Figure 3.2

Courtesy of GEMEXLight, generated by a fiber-optic ring light is then projected up, through an opening in the white half-sphere, through the glass, into the top of the diamond, as illustrated in Figure 3.1. The light moves to 5 specific sets of three individual points, stopping briefly at each of the 15 points. For each set of points, a camera, at the bottom of the machine, aiming up through the center of the ring light, triple exposes an image of the diamond, one picture at each point in the set, “laid” one on top of the other, as it were. Once these images are captured and stored, the software breaks down each image on a pixel by pixel basis, and looks at three distinct items.1. The amount of White Light being reflected by the stone. This will account for brightness or brilliance to the viewer’s naked eye.2. The amount of Colored Light being reflected by the stone. This will account for the fire or rainbow colored light to the viewer’s naked eye.3. The “movement” of light within the diamond, otherwise called Scintillation. This will be seen as sparkle to the viewer’s naked eye.These results are then compiled, and compared against a controlled database of diamonds that have been tested on the machine, and the results of these tests form the basis for the “grading by comparison” system used by the GEMEX software. The result is a report like the one pictured below.Figure 3.3

Courtesy of GEMEX.The results of the GEMEX report, displayed above in Figure 3.3,  are heavily curved; i.e. meaning that from the bottom of the chart to the middle of the “HIGH” grade encompasses up to the 85th percentile of all diamonds tested, while grades from the middle of the “HIGH” mark to the end of the scale at “VERY HIGH” comprise the 86th – 100th percentile of all diamonds tested. The GEMEX is an interesting tool, and is useful to a point for gaining a perception of how a diamond will perform in direct lighting conditions, such as direct sunlight, direct spotlighting, etc. The GEMEX is limited by the fact that its results only apply to direct lighting, and that its “grading by comparison” system is a totally subjective grading system which, by its nature, will always be subject to any influences that affected the block of results from the control group upon which the entire basis of the grading schematic rests. Another drawback to the GEMEX is that results can be manipulated slightly by a crafty user. Something as simple as placing a finger print smudge on the top of the diamond can cause a much higher rating on the White Light performance than the stone would have if it were totally clean. Meticulous cleaning of the diamond and the glass is absolutely necessary to ensure a proper scan. GEMEX inspects each scan before a report is issued and will reject reports that show excessive dirt or smudging, however the ease with which results can be manipulated remains a draw back in our opinion. Having an enormous amount of experience with the GEMEX BrillianceScope, both as a selling tool and as an analysis tool, I do believe that the technology is by enlarge sound, and the results valid. I have also found that consumers place far too much importance on the report, and often find themselves crippled with “analysis paralysis” and the fear that they should be waiting for a diamond that scores “the perfect 10” on the BrillianceScope, while letting world class diamonds go by on a technicality from a subjective, computerized, “grading by comparison” system. This is foolish and should be avoided. It is important to consider all aspects of a diamonds performance when purchasing a stone. To do this, one must consider a full body of analysis, of which the BrillianceScope is an informative, albeit non-essential piece. ISEE2Figure 3.4

Courtesy of ISEE2 DiamondsThe ISEE2 machine is another technology that measures a diamonds Brilliance, Fire, Scintillation, and Symmetry in a controlled light setting using mainly diffused light. The inventor of the ISEE2 states that the machine subjects diamonds to 48 different lighting conditions. The ISEE2 takes 15 images a second, and analyzes these images, breaking them down to analyze White Light, Colored Light, Light Movement (Scintillation), and Optical Symmetry (the pattern cut into the stone, in this case the machine is looking for the hearts and arrows pattern that is most commonly displayed in a properly cut 57 facet, traditional pattern round diamond). Having extensively used the ISEE2 machine for both the sale and analysis of diamonds, I can say that the results of the ISEE2 are consistent with other technologies, and are valid for consideration, provided that they are not overly weighted by a consumer in making their decision. As with the BrillianceScope, the rating system used by the software program is proprietary and unknown to anyone other than the developer. As with the BrillianceScope, this would not normally be a reason for concern, as the results have been shown to coincide with scientifically established measurements for “ideal light performance”, save for one critical piece of information; the ISEE2 machine was developed by the manufacturer of ISEE2 Diamonds specifically for the sale and marketing of their own ISEE2 Branded Diamond, which is a 57 facet Ideal Cut Hearts and Arrows Diamond. This fact does not invalidate the ISEE2 as a technology, nor yield its results as void, it merely casts a rebuttable shadow of doubt on a technology that has tested positively in private lab tests with both ISEE2 Diamonds and non-ISEE2 diamonds. The problem lies within the subjective “grading by comparison” standard that is employed by the software, which is proprietary, and therefore not discernable by consumers. So far, independent testing, including my own extensive use of the ISEE2 seems to show that the grading put forth by this technology is consistent and relatively accurate when compared to the current positions, in regards to cut, of the major gemological laboratories, such as GIA and AGS. As with the Brilliance Scope, the ISEE2 is an interesting, albeit non-essential source of information that can be considered when purchasing a diamond. The most prominent danger posed by this technology is the overemphasis that is often placed by the consumer on the importance of its results.GIA Diamond DockFigure 3.5

Courtesy of GIA  The GIA Diamond Dock is a lighting source that is used to evaluate diamonds. (Figure 3.5) This lighting environment is intended to simulate true “daylight” as closely as possible. Using a combination of diffused fluorescent lighting and L.E.D. direct lighting, it is able to simulate daylight fairly accurately. This is very useful for observation, photography, and “naked eye” light performance analysis of a diamond.The Diamond Dock also doubles as a color grading environment. TECHNOLOGIES THAT DO NOT PRETAIN TO “CUT GRADE ANALYSIS”Traditional Jeweler’s Triplet LoupeFigure 3.6

Courtesy of Kassoy.comA traditional jewelers “triplet” loupe is a simple tool that you will find in almost any good jewelry store. This is a simple, hand-held magnifying lens that allows a viewer to inspect the diamond under magnification fairly easily and in almost any location and situation. The standard magnification for these loupes is 10x, however different loupes are available for 20x and 30x as well. This particular kind of loupe is referred to as a “triplet” because the magnifier is actually made up of three different lenses in order to provide the highest clarity to the viewer. At first, using a loupe can be tricky, however with a little bit of practice, it is possible to gather a vast amount of information about a diamond simply by taking a good, long look at it through a loupe. High Power Microscope with High-Definition CameraFigure 3.7

Courtesy of Kassoy.comA good source of high magnification is critical to the proper analysis of any diamond. While observing a diamond through a 10x triplet loupe is good, having the ability to zoom in to 50x or 60x magnification allows a jeweler to learn much more about a diamond and its imperfections, as well as its cut. In addition, having the ability to share this information with a customer is vital to ensuring that the customer feels confident in the diamond they are looking to purchase. At Emma Parker & Co., we use the microscope pictured above. It is a 50x magnification microscope, with glass lenses produced by the company Leica, a leader in the optical glass industry. The microscope also has a high definition camera mounted on it, through which images of inclusions can be taken, and live video of the magnified diamond can be streamed. The pictures taken by this microscope allow customers to see, in remarkable detail, the characteristics of the diamond magnified. See examples below…Figure 3.8

The red arrows point to the “grading inclusions” in the diamond. These are the imperfections that contributed towards the diamonds clarity grade, as given by the grading laboratory, such as GIA or AGS. At Emma Parker & Co., we point out these inclusions with red arrows in a picture taken under the microscope so our customers can easily locate the incusions in their diamonds. ColorimeterFigure 3.9

Courtesy of Kassoy.comIn today’s advanced technological market, advanced and accurate tools have emerged for determining the color of a diamond. The tools, called “colorimeters” have advanced to such a point that they are quite accurate and sophisticated. These are fantastically costly machines, and are not used by everyone in the industry. Like many of our fellow colleagues, we here at Emma Parker & Co. prefer the old fashion way of color grading, the way that GIA and AGS still use to grade diamonds, a white tray, a color grading light, and set of master stones. We feel that some things are better left to the human eye and trained observation. Written by Timothy Andre, Emma Parker & Co.     www.emmaparkerdiamonds.com

Diamond Cut: The Basics – Cut, Part 1 – Facet StructureChapter 4Having a well-grounded understanding of a diamond’s facet structure is critical to gaining a full understanding of cut. In this chapter, we are going to breakdown the facet structure of a round diamond and discuss the basic purposes of the facets of the diamond. In the following chapters, we will be taking each shape, with its unique facet structure and discussing it, its cut, what measurements, angle combinations, and facet lengths bring out the stone’s beauty. THE CROWNThe Table FacetFigure 4.1

The table facet is the largest facet on the diamond. It is common to all main-stream shapes (Round, Square, Cushion, Pear, Marquise, etc.), and cut patterns produced in the market. The major function of the table facet is to allow light to enter the diamond through the top. Since a diamond’s sparkle is actually light that is being reflected up out of the diamond, it is critical that large amounts of light be able to ender directly into the diamond. In order to allow a maximum amount of light to enter the stone directly, a large, flat facet on the top of the diamond is essential.The “perfect” table size has been a topic of fierce discussion and debate between experts over the years, with each side being deeply entrenched in their own opinions. As with many areas of diamond cut, many of the experts’ positions overlap, showing that there is a certain amount of veracity and consistence to each of their arguments. Rather than to take a stance with any one school of thought, we prefer to look at the intersection of the major, scientifically supported theories. There is no “one size fits all” when it comes to table measurements. Each one is unique in the way that it interacts with the other measurements around it, and certainly, from shape to shape, proper table measurements take on totally new ranges and rules. We will be looking closely at optimal ranges for table measurements a little later on when we break down our discussion of cut for each different major diamond shape on the market. Something that is very important to remember, not just with the table facet but with all facets on a diamond, is that they live in a 3 dimensional world and can move in multiple directions. Most often, when a facet’s measurement is discussed, we talk about its diameter, depth, length, or angle. However, a facet can “move” in other ways that need to be considered. For example, is the table off-center? Is the table tilted, in relation to the girdle of the stone? Is the table warped, or skewed? Is the shape of the table symmetrical? Is the facet pattern of the stone symmetrical? Are the facets on the pavilion and crown lined up with each other? Is the culet off-center? Is a facet shifted, twisted, rotated, beveled, curved, etc. While this is a topic that we will not be touching on again until later, it seemed fitting to mention it here in order to set the tone for discussions to come. The Star FacetsThe star facets are small, triangular facets that surround the table, in stones that exhibit the “brilliant cut” pattern, such as rounds, ovals, pears, hearts, marquise, princess, radiant, etc; as opposed to a step cut pattern, such as an emerald or asscher; or even a proprietary cut, such as a Lucida, Criss-cut, etc (we will address their facet structures later on). See figure 4.2.Figure 4.2

The stars are the first of three sets of facets that make up the angled portion of the diamond’s crown. Light that enters these facets will be bent as it passes through them, in contrast to light that enters through the table. See figure 4.3 and 4.4. (These illustrations are of a diamond cut to AGS Ideal proportions, using a single “ray-trace light source” in the model to illustrate the path that light takes through the stone.Figure 4.3

Figure 4.4

The facets that make up the crown of the diamond are very important, because they will bend light passing through the diamond in two way, when it enters the stone, and when it exits the stone. If these facets are cut to angles that are inconsistent or improper, it will have significant effects on the sparkle and brilliance of the diamond. The most common measurement used to express the dimensions of a star facet is that of length, which is expressed in the percentage of the distance which the facet covers between the edge of the table and the edge of the girdle (this was already discussed in the first chapter of this tutorial). Again, there are many schools of thought as to what is the optimal measurement. Rather than proclaim the perfect measurement, it is more informative to look at how different star facet lengths affect the diamond, and how their measurements, when combined with various measurements from the pavilion of the diamond, will yield different optical results, within in which it is possible to find differing appearances which may appeal more to one person than another. The result of such truths is that no one measurement is “the best”, but rather a range of measurements and combinations should be considered. We will breakdown the different measurements and combinations for each shape later on in this tutorial.The Bezel FacetsThe bezel facets are the major facets in the crown of a diamond with the “brilliant cut pattern”. It is the angle of these facets that is depicted as the “crown angle” on the lab reports. These are the largest facets in the crown, and have the greatest impact on the light performance of the stone. The bezel facets of a diamond are illustrated in Figure 4.5, shown below.Figure 4.5

The important statistic to consider about bezel facets is their angle. Since they are the major facets of the crown, they impact the bending of light more than the other two facet groups on the crown. The key to finding a diamond with a good or great cut is not in the in angle measurement of the bezel facets alone, but rather in the combination created by the angle of the bezel facets and the pavilion main facets (pavilion main facets will be discussed later in this chapter). It is this combination that will produce the bending and reflecting of light. If only one set of these facets fall into the proper range, the variance in the non-conforming set of facets will offset the other. Focusing on good combinations and how this will affect the diamond’s ability to reflect light is key if you want to find a diamond that is going to have the “wow” factor. The Upper Girdle FacetsThe upper girdle facets are those facets that have one edge touching the girdle. In stones with a “brilliant cut pattern” especially rounds, these small facets can play a very big roll. See Figure 4.6.Figure 4.6

There are two issues that can happen with these facets that can affect the appearance and beauty of a diamond. They will both be covered under the section discussing the cut of a round diamond. So you know to look out for these topics, they are called Painting and Digging. As with any other portion of diamond cut, these points are hot points of controversy and argument. We will thoroughly discuss these issues a little later. THE PAVILIONThe Pavilion-Main FacetsThe pavilion-main facets, sometimes called “the mains”, are the major facets that extend from the culet of the diamond to the edge of the girdle. These facets are responsible for the majority of the light reflection from the pavilion of the diamond. It is the angles of these facets that will determine where the light that enters the diamond will be reflected. Figure 4.7

The measurement used to define this facet set is an angle measurement. You can see this measurement represented on a lab grading report as the “pavilion angle”. This measurement is a very important one, and, particularly in rounds, a very small change in the angle can result in huge impacts to the visual beauty and sparkle of the diamond. Again…as with the crown angle…there is no one measurement that is the “best”. It is all about the combination of the crown and pavilion angles, working together to produce beautiful optics. Of course, there are limits, and angle measurements within certain ranges that tend to produce the nicest diamonds. As we move through the coming chapters on cut, we will examine different shapes, and how changing the angles of the pavilion-main facets can affect the performance and beauty of a diamond.The Lower Girdle FacetsThe lower girdle facets, as their name would suggest, and just like the upper girdle facets, are the facets that extend from the edge of the girdle, down towards the pavilion. They are found in between the pavilion main facets and are grouped two together. Figure 4.8

The primary measurement used to describe the lower girdle facets is that of length, expressed in a percentage…which is the percentage of the distance the facets cover between the edge of the girdle and the culet. Their length is significant, as it can affect the visual beauty and appearance of a diamond, although their effect is not as great as the “pavilion mains”. Also…like their opposites (the upper girdle facets), lower girdle facets can also suffer the affects of Painting and Digging…which we will discuss later. The CuletThe culet is the point at the bottom of the pavilion. The purpose of the culet is really to keep the diamond from being damaged on the bottom. Today, it is most common to see culets that are referred to a “None” or “Pointed”, since most diamond are brought to a sharp point at the bottom. This was not always the case however. Particularly in more antique cuts, it is quite common to see culets that are flattened, creating another facet on the bottom of the diamond.The issue caused by having a large girdle is that it creates a facet that is parallel to the table. This opens an exit point for light to pass through at the bottom of the diamond, which allows light to pass directly through the diamond, without being reflected back to the viewer, i.e. “light leakage”.  Although the look of a large culet can be very enticing, especially in an antique stone, it is important to understand that it will allow a fair amount of light to be lost through the bottom of the stone, and will affect the overall light return of the diamond.It is important to remember, once again, that diamonds are personal, and that something that one customer may consider undesirable, could be sought after and prized by another. The GirdleThe girdle is the thin “band” around the widest part of the stone. The girdle is very important to the cut of a diamond, but not so much in the way of light performance. Rather, the girdle has to do with the structural soundness of the diamond. After all…the diamond will be held in the setting by the girdle, and, while being worn on the finger by its owner…there is a greater chance that the wearer will bang or knock the stone on its girdle than any other part of the diamond.The girdle measurement, on a lab grading report, is expressed in either millimeters, or as a percentage of the stone’s total depth. It is important to have a girdle that is the right thickness. The girdle should be thick enough to be secure for setting, and secure against chipping or cracking, however if the girdle is too thick, this will hide “extra weight” in the stone. “Extra weight” is carat weight that you pay for in the price, but don’t see in the actual millimeter diameter of the diamond. There are many places that diamond cutters can hide weight in a stone…the girdle is just one. We will discuss them more in detail later on in this tutorial.Now that we have taken the time to breakdown the different facets a diamond…we are going to focus on breaking down our next look into the world of cut by considering one shape and cut pattern at a time.  We will continue this discussion in Chapter 5.

Written by Timothy Andre, Emma Parker & Co.     www.emmaparkerdiamonds.com