My Pink Diamonds

Emma Parker & Co.’s Advance Diamond TutorialIntroductionWelcome to Emma Parker & Co.’s Advance Diamond Tutorial. Before we begin to dig into the deepest areas of the subject of diamonds, let me take a moment to set a little background that will help you as you journey through this document.Before you read any further…you should have read Emma Parker & Co.’s Diamond Tutorial. There is much foundation there that will give you a good base to start from. There will also be instances throughout this tutorial where references will be made to certain items or occurrences without explanation…a solid understanding of the basics of diamonds will be critical at that point. In this tutorial, we will seek to explore diamond cut from top to bottom, starting with a simple breakdown of cut…then moving into more in depth subjects such as facet breakdown, proportions, and measurements. We hope that you enjoy this tutorial, and that it will be useful to you in your diamond search. So now, without further delay, Emma Parker & Co. is proud to present our Advanced Diamond Tutorial.Diamond Cut…The BasicsOne of the biggest misconceptions of “diamond cut” held by the average consumer today is that the term “diamond cut” means “diamond shape”. The two are totally separate and distinct terms, and mean completely different things. “Diamond shape” is exactly that…it is the shape of the diamond…be it round, square, cushion, princess, or any of a number of shapes that are available in the marketplace. “Diamond cut”, however, refers to the angles, measurements, proportions, and facet structure of the diamond. The “diamond cut” directly impacts that visual beauty of the diamond, through its ability to reflect light, and therefore is considered by most gemologists to be the most important factor that should be considered when selecting a quality stone. It is important to understand that there is no base set measurements for “diamond cut” that apply to diamonds in general. Each diamond shape has a different set of proportions and measurements that, when put together in the correct way, create the pinnacle of optical beauty and performance for that particular shape. Thus, for consumers, it should be very easy to spot a “scam” or “generalized sales push” when a set of measurements or series of criteria is presented as being supreme to all diamonds. A perfect example of this is the gross misuse of the term “ideal” in the industry. Ever since the introduction of this term by gemological laboratories, it has been loosely applied to diamonds, with reckless abandon, in an effort to sway customers as to the quality of the diamond. Simple and deceptive tactics…which will be illustrated later on in this tutorial…combined with frequent and loose usage of terms such as “ideal” and “excellent”…have caused massive confusion for consumers seeking to purchase a quality product with their hard earned money.While there are many differing opinions on what constitutes the “best” cut stone, most of the valid opinions on the subject do have a significant amount of overlap, and therefore, by looking at the intersection point of these different theories, consumers can be sure that they will purchase a beautiful diamond.BEWARE THE TRAP! There is NO SUCH THING as the BEST diamond. Diamonds are like fingerprints, there are no two alike. Every single stone has a different personality and carries its own defining marks. This applies to the cut of the stone as well. Hence the search for the world’s best diamond is a purely subjective one, which will yield a different result for each person that attempts the search. It has been an observation of mine, that customers often paralyze themselves with fear, by dwelling on the thought that if they only wait for the next diamond…that one will be “the best”.  While the selection process is a difficult one, and should not be approached with a cavalier attitude, it is critical that you, as a consumer, not handicap yourself with the fear which comes from trying to find the “perfect diamond”. There are many beautiful diamonds in the world, and taking simple steps to find one of them will lead you to a very rewarding end to your quest. Written by Timothy Andre, Emma Parker & Co.     www.emmaparkerdiamonds.com

What is the diamond shape

Many buyers often confuse between the diamond cut and shape of a diamond. The cut of a diamond refers to the number of facets and angles of a diamond. The shape of a diamond however refers to the geometrical form of a diamond, after it has been cut and polished. Here is a list of the popular shapes available in the market and how buyers can choose from them.

Round diamonds

These are by far the most popular and expensive, and not without reason. Round brilliant have the maximum fire and brilliance. They also give flexibility for balancing the grades of color, cut and clarity. Finally, these can be put into diverse settings quite easily. These diamonds have fifty eight facets (including the culet). Highest brilliance can be obtained by choosing round diamonds of ideal or very good grades of cut. The ideal proportions are achieved in round brilliants only, by maintaining proportions.

Round Brilliant Diamond

Emerald shaped diamonds

As the name implies, this shape was more popular for emeralds before it was used on diamonds. Thus stones here are basically rectangular in shape while the pavilion is cut with rectangular facets. Corners are cropped for added effect. Step cuts that resemble stairs, in the stone give it a special optical appearance of flashes of light. The large and open table of the emerald shape especially highlights the clarity of the stone. While opting for an emerald shaped diamond it is therefore important to choose a stone with high clarity and few inclusions. Location of the inclusions on the stone are also of importance and buyers must take care that the inclusions are not present near the table where they are easily visible. Price wise this shape is more economical as compared to the expensive round or princess diamonds.

Emerald Shape Diamond

Princess shaped diamonds

Besides the round diamonds, the princess shape is the next more popular and preferred shape, especially for engagement rings. The shape is highly popular for its property to bring out the best brilliance in a square cut diamond. This is a typically square or rectangular shaped diamond that comes with pointed corners and many sparkling facets. This cut is relatively new as compared to other shapes and looks quite flattering on long and slender fingers. While buying a princess shaped diamond, it is important to consider the length to width ratio of the stone. While a length to width ratio between 1 to 1.05 is suitable for square shaped princess diamonds, buyers may prefer a length to width ratio greater that 1.10 if looking for more rectangular princess diamonds. Also this cut requires more depth as compared to other cuts and thus a depth percentage of 70% or more is taken.

Princess Shape Diamond

Oval shaped diamonds

Oval shaped diamonds are quite popular in the market too and are well known for their flattering effect of length on short fingers. This shape is noted to have been created and introduced by Lazare Kaplan way back in the 1960s. Usually noted to have 56 facets, the weight of such diamonds is estimated by measuring the length and width of the stone. A ratio of 1.33 to 1.66 provides a good traditional range of oval shaped diamonds. While choosing an oval diamond ensure that it has ‘shape appeal’. Watch out for uneven shoulders or high shoulders or a bow-tie effect that can be visible to the naked eye. Also choose a good setting either in the east-west or north-south direction so that the diamond has high appeal.

Oval Shape Diamond

Marquise diamonds

This is an elongated diamond with both ends pointed. These diamonds are known to have taken their name from the famous smile of Marquise de Pompadour. It is renowned for its property to give a bigger looking diamond. Diamonds with this shape usually have 56 facets. The ideal length to width ratios while opting for marquise diamonds fall within 1.75 and 2.25. Buyers must look out for shape appeal and for a bow tie effect that is often visible in poorly shaped Marquise diamonds.

Marquise Shape Diamond

Pear shaped diamonds

This is also known as the teardrop shape owing to its resemblance and is considered as a hybrid between the marquise cut and the round brilliant diamond. The stone has one end rounded while the other end is pointed. Buyers can opt between varying length and width ratios for the ideal looking pear shaped diamond. Length to width ratios between 1.45 and 1.75 are suitable. Buyers should be careful while choosing stones and must look out for a bow-tie effect visible to the naked eye.

Pear Shaped Diamond

Cushion shaped diamonds

The cushion shaped diamonds are also known as pillow cut or candlelight diamonds, owing to the number of years for which this shape has had popularity. Those were ancient times, when stones were viewed in candlelight rather than artificial light. They have round corners and larger sized facets that enhance the brilliance of the stone. While this shape is not as fiery and brilliant as princess shaped diamonds, it lends a certain elegance to diamonds and is thus adopted by many. The cushion shape more or less resembles a hybrid between the old mine cut and the modern oval shape. As in other square stones, one can opt for cushion shaped diamonds that are square or rectangular. Finally, opt for cushion shape only if you plan to invest in diamonds over one carat.

Cushion Shape Diamond

Radiant diamonds

Radiant diamonds come with trimmed corners that gives this diamond its special shape. The shape can be both rectangular and square and buyers should consider the length to width ratio of the stone while opting. Usually the shape has seventy facets and more weight is directed into the depth of the stone for giving a high brilliance. A ratio of 1 to 1.05 gives a more square looking shape while a ratio over 1.10 gives a more rectangular looking diamond.

Radiant Brilliant

Heart diamonds

Heart diamonds are a symbol of love and are opted for by many. The diamond is typically a pear shaped diamond with the rounded end comprising of a cleft. Much skill goes into giving the perfect heart shaped diamond to dance with brilliance. It is thus advisable that before buying heart shaped diamonds, maximum attention be given to the cut and the highest grade of diamond cut be selected for purchase. Length to width ratios between 0.90 and 1.10 are advisable, but do be sure about the kind of heart shape you require, elongated and slim or short and broad.

Heart Shape

Asscher shape

The asscher shape resemble emerald cut diamonds with the exception that the diamond is square instead of rectangular. As compared to an emerald shape, this shape usually has a higher brilliance, smaller table and a deeper pavilion. Also the stone has bigger step facets. The shape highlights the clarity of the diamond and it is important to take a diamond with minimal inclusions, especially at the table, while opting for this shape. While you can opt for any carat weight in the asscher shape, you will get an amazing range even under one carat size. Look for shape appeal before purchasing the stone without using a loupe.

Asscher Cut

Trilliant shape

This special shape first designed in Amsterdam, gives a diamond the look of brilliant dancing fire. The stone basically has a triangular shape with pointed or rounded edges. There are usually twenty five facets on the crown and nineteen facets on the pavilion. The girdle is polished.

Trilliant Shape Diamond

What buyers must look for

Keeping the following aspects in mind will assist diamond buyers greatly while choosing a good diamond.

Usage: While all diamonds look beautiful, the right selection of shape can prove extremely beautiful. Thus while a woman with a small hand may prefer a princess shaped diamond or a round one, long fingers are better accentuated by a marquise shape or oval shaped diamond. Finally an elongated pear shaped diamond can make fingers appear slimmer and slender.

Appeal: Shape appeal is another important factor that buyers must consider. Look for a stone that appeals well to the unaided eye. This can be checked through considering the girdle of the stone. Also look for the bow tie effect that can be quite prominent in certain stones.

Size of diamond: While the carat weight determines the size of a diamond, a difference in shape can also make the size of the diamond look different. Thus a one carat emerald shaped diamond with less depth and more surface area can appear bigger as compared to a two carat round brilliant stone. The marquise shape is another option that can make a low carat diamond appear much bigger.

Clarity: Certain shapes like the Asscher and emerald shapes tend to highlight the clarity of the diamond. Thus if buyers are opting for stones of grade SI, it is important to check where the inclusions are present.

Setting of the stone: Finally the right setting of the diamond can accentuate its shape and appearance on wearing. Small round diamonds on either side of a marquise finger ring, can make fingers appear longer. Also in princess and emerald shaped diamonds, buyers must check that the setting protects the four corners, which can otherwise chip easily. Four pronged settings are thus advisable for such shapes.

Besides the above, diamonds take on various other shapes that are a hybrid of the above. Most of these shapes take form owing to the creativity of the cutter and the original shape of the diamond from which the shape is inspired, for retaining maximum carat weight and brilliance. While the shape you buy is finally your individual preference, opt for the right diamond with great care.

Perhaps you’ve heard of the “Four C’s” of diamond quality. Each and every unique diamond in the world has its own defining characteristics, and understanding each of them will help you make an informed decision when you come into a Spence Diamonds showroom.
Cut
Nothing is more important to the brilliance and sparkle of a diamond than its cut, as it is responsible for around 40% of a diamond’s price. A well cut diamond will reflect light from one facet to another and back through the top, creating a dramatic sparkling effect that only a diamond can emit. Only the most skilled diamond cutters can shape a diamond with exacting precision, to release its full brilliance, taking into account such factors as proportions, finish, and of course symmetry.
Colour
When examining a diamond, be sure to view it “loose” (unmounted) under a neutral light source, to get the best view of its colour. In the “normal colour” range, the colour of a diamond is rated on a scale that goes from D to Z, with D being the whitest diamond available, and Z being a tinted, light yellow colour. For most jewelry, a colour grade from G to J is usually best.
Why “D to Z?” Before this rating system was invented, diamond professionals used many other symbols (including liberal uses of “A” and “AA”) to rate colour, so the creators of the new system started at D, to avoid any confusion with the outdated ratings systems.
There are also various coloured diamond choices available today, but when you are looking specifically at a white diamond, you should understand how this scale works, and where your diamond of choice is rated on the spectrum. Also, the mounting of a diamond can impact its appearance. A more yellowish diamond will appear whiter next to a gold setting, whereas a white gold setting will make the diamond look less pure if you compare the two side-by-side.
Clarity
The clarity of a diamond refers to the number and nature of inclusions or blemishes that are visible when you view it under a microscope. Some diamond professionals refer to clarity as “purity” or “quality,” but neither of those start with “C,” so we’ll stick with clarity.
A blemish is an imperfection on the surface of a diamond, and an inclusion is a small spot contained within it. Diamonds with little or no imperfections such as these are rarer, and much more valuable. Five factors determine a diamond’s clarity: the size, number, position, nature and “relief” of the inclusions. Relief describes the level of visibility of these imperfections. The clarity scale of a diamond is the easiest to understand: It varies from Flawless, to Internally Flawless, and from there goes to VVS, VS, SI and I. These are easy to understand and remember, because they stand for: Very Very Slightly included, Very Slightly included, Slightly Included, and Included. Each of these designations has varying levels as well, but getting a handle on these will help you understand the importance of clarity in a diamond’s grading.
An “I” rated diamond will have inclusions that are visible to the naked eye, whereas even a skilled diamond expert would need a microscope to see the inclusions in an “SI” diamond. Because of this, diamonds rated “SI” usually represent the best value for your investment.
Important Note: Skilled jewelry makers often mount a diamond so as to mask an inclusion from sight, helping it appear more flawless. Before buying a diamond, be sure to examine it loose under a microscope to get a better idea of its clarity.
Carat
The last and most obvious characteristic that a diamond is measured by is its Carat (abbreviated “ct.”). A carat is a measure of weight, and it takes 142 of them to make an ounce.
Interesting bits of trivia:
You can mail 142 one-carat diamonds with just a single postage stamp (Not that you would want to)!
The majority of diamonds used in jewelry weigh less than one carat.
Obviously, a diamond’s carat weight can have a big effect on its value. When written, carat weights are expressed as decimal numbers: 1.00 ct., 0.48 ct., 1.57 cts., and so on. In a piece which has more than one diamond, often times you will see the total carat weight of the diamonds shown.
At Spence Diamonds, each and every diamond comes with an official Diamond Certificate, which will give you a detailed blueprint of your diamond. Now that you understand the “Four C’s” of diamond grading, you’ll have a better understanding of these certificates, which give you detailed info on all of the factors discussed above, including a “plotting” that shows the exact location of inclusions and blemishes.

The diamond is the hardest substance in nature known to man, yet it is a gemstone of the simplest composition.
It is a mineral made up of carbon atoms formed into a crystalline lattice arrangement. Its modern popularity is owed to the discovery of huge diamond deposits in southern and central Africa during the 1800s and since then has become a gemstone to be coveted even by ordinary people.
When obtaining or buying a diamond, the industry has standards to which a diamond’s worth and value can be measured.
Although there are other factors of a diamond piece that experts consider, like its symmetry, table percentage, and fluorescence, to determine its value, consumers usually learn about the four Cs beforehand as a starting point.
These are Cut, Color, Clarity and Carat.
1. Cut – the cut of a diamond actually pertains to both its shape and how well the diamond is formed in relation to its proportions and polish.
This factor of a diamond defers from all the others, as it is the only one that is determined by human hands. Nature is responsible for a diamond’s color, clarity and carat, but only an expert cutter can make a rough diamond achieve its most beautiful form.
As for the shape of a diamond, there are 8 major shapes, which include round, marquise, emerald, pear, princess, oval, radiant, and heart. The round shape is the most popular and readily available in any possible size and quality.
If a diamond is cut too shallow or deep, it losses its brilliance by the light leaking at the side of bottom. A well-proportioned diamond emphasizes its natural beauty and brilliance.
2. Color – the color of a diamond varies from shades of yellow to the higher quality and more uncommon colorless types.
A diamond’s color is graded, D being the highest for the perfectly colorless stones, to grade Z, which has tints of yellow in the piece.
There are some that are also called fancies, available in brighter hues of blue, pink, yellow, green, purple and even red. These types, although colored, are more rare and much more expensive.
3. Clarity – like our own fingerprints, no two diamonds are alike. This is because diamonds have inclusions, tiny internal flaws of non-crystallized carbon that are mostly invisible to a human eye.
These inclusions affect a diamond’s clarity, which is the degree in which light passes through the stone. Blemishes can also appear after the cutting process and can affect clarity.
Clarity grades range from internally flawless to imperfect.
4. Carat – pertains to a diamond’s weight and is measured in increments called points, 100 points being equal to one carat.
Since larger diamonds are rare, the value of a 2-carat diamond is priced higher than that of 2 1-carat diamonds of the same quality.
A diamond’s carat is the easiest to measure since it is determined on a diamond scale. Its weight also does not necessarily reflect its size, since a diamond can be cut in a way that makes its discernable top surface

DiamondDiamond is a crystalline form of carbon.Its rarity makes it extremely valuable and precious. The combination of the 4Cs, namely Cut, Clarity, Carat and Colour, determines the value of a particular diamond. Cut

While nature determines a diamond’s clarity, carat weight and colour, the hand of a master craftsman is necessary to release its fire, sparkle and beauty. When a diamond is cut to good proportions, light will reflect from one mirror-

like facet to another and disperse through the top of the stone, resulting in a display of brilliance and fire.

Diamonds that are cut too deep or too shallow lose light that spills through the side or bottom. As a result, poorly cut stones will be less brilliant and beautiful and certainly less valuable. A well cut or faceted diamond, regardless of

its shape, scintillates with fire and light, offering the greatest brilliance.

Ideal Cut Diamond

Every angle, proportion, and facet in a cut diamond contributes to its light reflection, so variations in any or all of them have a definite effect on the beauty of the diamond. An Ideal Cut round brilliant diamond is one which is cut to

an exact mathematical proportions and angles, to create a diamond of irresistible beauty.

Super Ideal Cut Diamond

Masterly craftsmen continuously strive to obtain the most ideal cut to release the maximum brilliance and fire from a diamond. The Super Ideal Cut, with the following three qualities surpasses the Ideal Cut in creating a diamond of

unequalled magnificence.

Super Ideal Cut Diamond

Perfect Cut Proportion

Super ideal cut proportion is similar to the ideal cut proportion, except in the extra 1% on the table length and the depth.

Perfect Symmetry

Perfect Symmetry refers to the identical and exact size and angle placement of each facet. Only with this quality, can the diamond release an even radiance. Without perfect symmetry, the facets cannot reflect the same level of

brightness, which reduces the diamond’s brilliance.

Perfect Polish

Polish refers to the finishing of a diamond. The surface of a perfectly polished diamond is flat and smooth, allowing light to reflect evenly through every facet.

Super Ideal Cut Diamond

When a diamond meets all of the above three criteria, 8 perfect arrows and 8 perfect hearts can be observed with a special scope. These are significant proofs of a super ideal cut diamond.

Clarity

The greater a diamond’s clarity, the more brilliant, valuable and rare it is. Virtually all diamonds contain identifying characteristics, yet many are invisible to the naked eye. Under the scrutiny of a jeweller’s 10X magnifier, natural

phenomena called inclusions may be seen. These are nature’s birthmarks.

The number, colour, type, size and position of the birthmarks affect a diamond’s value. Major inclusions can interfere with the path of light that travels through a diamond, diminishing its brilliance and sparkle and therefore its value.

Carat

Carat is the measurement of a diamond’s weight.

One carat is equal to 0.2 gram or 100 points. Because large diamonds are found relatively infrequently in nature, diamonds’ worth go up almost exponentially with their weight.

Colour

Diamonds can be classified into “colourless diamonds” and “fancy coloured diamonds”. Colourless diamonds are graded by colour, starting at D and continuing through the alphabet. Truly colourless stones, graded D, are treasured

for their rarity and value, and are highest in quality. Fancy coloured diamonds in well defined colours that include red, pink, blue, green and canary yellow are particularly rare and very highly priced.

Shape

Diamonds are cut in many fancy shapes. As the shape and distribution of inclusions vary with each raw stone, diamonds are cut into different shapes in order to avoid flaws and to minimize the wastage. People often choose

different shapes according to their own preferences. The following are the most popular shapes in the market:

Round Brilliant

The round brilliant cut diamond is by far the most popular shape, and accounts for about 3 out of 4 diamonds purchased today. It is designed to produce the greatest brilliance and reflection of light.

Princess

Princess cut is the second most popular shape on the market. Its table appears as a square-like rectangular shape. The pavilion of princess shape is cut according to that of the round brilliant, which increases the brilliance of the

diamond but also increases the use of materials.

Oval

The Oval shape is an extension of round brilliant, it looks larger than its actual size because of the elongated shape. Rings set with oval diamonds are suitable for ladies with small hands or shorter fingers.

Heart

Heart shape is a symbol of romance. It bears some similarity to the pear shape. To avoid significant inclusions, the cutter often prefers cutting the heart shape to the pear shape. This shape is seen frequently in pendants, but is suitable

for most any purpose.

Emerald

The Emerald cut is not a brilliant cut, but is called a step cut. Step cuts are comprised of larger facets, which act like mirrors. Because of the angle, size and shape of the facets, the emerald cut shows less brilliance and fire than the

brilliant cut diamonds. However, the emerald cut stone reveals a classic and aristocratic elegance and beauty not seen in other cuts. Because of the open and large nature of the facets, it is highly recommended that you consider

staying at higher colour and clarity grades.

Marquise

An elongated shape with 2 pointed ends just like the eye of a horse. This special shape is especially suitable for people with unique style.

Pear

Pear shape combines the best of oval and marquise but the appearance is much softer. Pear shaped diamond ring can accentuate long and slender fingers. It is also beautiful for setting pendants and earrings.

Even if you have never been shopping for diamond jewelry, you have probably heard about the four Cs used to classify diamonds—clarity, cut, carat and color. These collective metrics are used throughout the world to determine the value of individual diamonds, with diamonds exhibiting the most desirable combinations of clarity, cut, carat weight and color rising to the top as the most universally unique and highest valued gems.

Clarity refers to the extent of inclusions, or natural features such as fractures present in the diamond that originated from its formation deep within the earth. A diamond’s cut describes the design and proportions of the diamond after it is crafted by a diamond cutter, an art form that manifests itself in the diamond’s outward appearance and brilliance. Carat is a concrete description of a diamond’s weight, with one carat representing a weight of 200 milligrams. Color is a diamond quality that generally refers to the extent to which a diamond is colorless. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has established a widely accepted color scale to rate diamonds falling in the normal color spectrum, which ranges from colorless to yellow. Diamonds which fall closer to the colorless end of the color spectrum are generally considered more valuable than yellow or brown tinted diamonds of equivalent clarity, cut and carat weight. Intensely colored diamonds are the exception, their rarity and beauty making them extremely valuable and exotic despite being far from colorless.

Although many people perceive all diamonds to be colorless, true colorless diamonds are extremely rare, and thus the most valuable on the GIA color scale. A majority of diamonds commonly used in jewelry such as engagement rings and eternity rings have a tint of yellow or brown, placing them in the normal color range. Though slight variations in the color of diamonds are to be expected, the difference among various shades is usually indistinguishable to the untrained eye.

While diamonds in the normal color range are the most common, diamonds form within the earth in an array of colorful hues. Diamonds in vibrant colors such as pink, yellow, green and blue, called fancy colored diamonds, are highly sought after by diamond connoisseurs and jewelry consumers alike. The rarity and splendor of such exotic diamonds contributes to their high value, and is the reason that colored diamonds are often attractions at museums and exhibits. The famous and fabled 45.52 carat Hope Diamond on display at the Smithsonian Institution since 1958 is a prime example, requiring dedicated security measures and personnel of its own.

Like white diamonds, the value of a fancy colored diamond is determined in part by the collective value of its four Cs. However, the color attribute becomes a more significant dynamic in the valuation of a colored diamond. Rather than being evaluated on its lack of color, a colored diamond is valued based on the quality of its hue, intensity and consistency.